Shiver Metimbers
Well-Known Member
I need to renew my engine bay soundproofing, can anyone recommend any particular material and supplier. ASAP have a "quietlife 32" Anyone used this?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Soundproofing
- Thread starter Shiver Metimbers
- Start date
pvb
Well-Known Member
Whichever soundproofing you choose, pay attention to sealing the gaps on all access hatches - this can make a big difference.
Pye_End
Well-Known Member
Have used Quietlife and is good.
Get the thickest you can fit.
Get the thickest you can fit.
charles_reed
Well-Known Member
Halyard (M + I) Ltd
Whaddon Business Park
Southampton Rd. Whaddon
Salisbury SP5 3HF
tel 01722 710922
Soundproofing an engine compartment is not a simple matter of putting in dimpled foam, you need a layer of lead and a highly reflective mirror surface in addition.
The above are experts.
Whaddon Business Park
Southampton Rd. Whaddon
Salisbury SP5 3HF
tel 01722 710922
Soundproofing an engine compartment is not a simple matter of putting in dimpled foam, you need a layer of lead and a highly reflective mirror surface in addition.
The above are experts.
chewi
Well-Known Member
Am I mistaken in thinking the reflective foil is just a barrier to prevent oil soaking into the foam and creating a fire risk?
Why does it have to be highly reflective?
Why does it have to be highly reflective?
leomagill
Well-Known Member
I have quietlife 32 in my engine bay, it made a world of difference on clattery old bmc's.
Pasarell
Well-Known Member
I used Quietlife from ASAP in my engine compartment last year and it made a huge difference without being perfect in covering every small gap. This year I'm filling in the detail bits so expect another big improvement.
Don't reply on adhesive alone though. You need to screw the material onto overhead horizontal surfaces as it's too heavy for the glue on its own.
Don't reply on adhesive alone though. You need to screw the material onto overhead horizontal surfaces as it's too heavy for the glue on its own.
PeterGibbs
Well-Known Member
Adding to Charles' good advice, installation has to given some thought because a lot of engine compartments are not made with much space for modern soundproofing which can be quite thick. You'll need space after fitting to get at vital engine parts without dismantling the soundproofing - it doesn't like being shoved about!
Be prepared for a 3 figure bill - good material with a sound deadening layer sandwiched within, and faced with fire retardent foil doesn't come cheap. But worth it.
When you cut the panels ensure they fit as close together as possible - sound escapes easily through gaps, That said you will not be aboe to proof the underside of the compartment - vibrations will still contact the hull, although this is not a big issue.
Finally, the engine still has to breathe so choose where the air's coming from, and when she's running long and hot where's the excess heat escaping to/through. In my setup there are two vents to take care of this - others even go for a small extractor fan.
I glued my panels (I seem to remember Evostick?) but also screwed them for safety and security. If your existing setup has the egg crate type foam material already in place - heave it out, it's useless. Other substrates can be panelled over - that's what I did, but I had the room to do it.
PWG
Be prepared for a 3 figure bill - good material with a sound deadening layer sandwiched within, and faced with fire retardent foil doesn't come cheap. But worth it.
When you cut the panels ensure they fit as close together as possible - sound escapes easily through gaps, That said you will not be aboe to proof the underside of the compartment - vibrations will still contact the hull, although this is not a big issue.
Finally, the engine still has to breathe so choose where the air's coming from, and when she's running long and hot where's the excess heat escaping to/through. In my setup there are two vents to take care of this - others even go for a small extractor fan.
I glued my panels (I seem to remember Evostick?) but also screwed them for safety and security. If your existing setup has the egg crate type foam material already in place - heave it out, it's useless. Other substrates can be panelled over - that's what I did, but I had the room to do it.
PWG
Boat44
Well-Known Member
We are doing just sucj a job to our boat. We have boat Halyard insulation. What ever you buy. make sure it is fire retarent. IT is being stuck on with Sikoflex, can't remember which one but Halyard suggested it. Far less hassle/toxic than evostic, although i have done a boat with evostic and it works.
As said above, devil is in the detail. Sound will leak out from cracks/gaps, so make sure they are filled/covered.
Cover as much of the compartment as possible. Noting that sound will leak out particallry through the big holes for ventilation etc.
You will make a big difference, but just remmeber you wont get rid of all the noise as some will be structual born noise transmitting itself through the hull and the engine mounts etc.
Have fun, and if you think it is a days job, add a few more!
As said above, devil is in the detail. Sound will leak out from cracks/gaps, so make sure they are filled/covered.
Cover as much of the compartment as possible. Noting that sound will leak out particallry through the big holes for ventilation etc.
You will make a big difference, but just remmeber you wont get rid of all the noise as some will be structual born noise transmitting itself through the hull and the engine mounts etc.
Have fun, and if you think it is a days job, add a few more!