Something to block holes while fb-,glassing.

dgadee

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I have a few largish holes in the cockpit to fill in. I've done this before so don't need advice on this part of the process.

What I would like would be suggestions of a low cost flexible "card" I can use to block the holes against which I can (from inside the boat) gel coat, glass and then remove. Finally touching up from outside.

I can't think of anything except buying a sheet of plastic laminate. Any ideas?
 

veshengro

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How big are the holes? Supermarkets ( take your pick) sell packs of cheap plastic food containers. Thin, like take away containers, about 8 x 5 inches with flat lids, about £2 a pack of 6.
 

dgadee

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Ice cream, margarine, yogurt, containers that is, take your pick.
Ice cream? I'm trying to lose weight! Margarine? Never. Yogurt! Aren't they round?

I'll take a look for Veshengro's food containers.

There is an ancient speed meter, two square 4" holes and I want to move the engine start panel.
 

KompetentKrew

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If a large box of teabags is big enough for your application then I have used that kind of cardboard in the past.

It's smooth and very slightly glossy. I wax over it.

Maybe a serial box would do?
 

blush2

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In the past we used plastic L-plates but I don't think you can get them unless they are in your garage under the 'might be useful someday ' collection
 

dgadee

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Maybe the best cheap idea so far is carboard but not so easy to hold in place with screws.

Formica would be my ideal, but too costly for a tight person. Might have to buy some cheap ply.
 

kippers26

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Any "plastic " fish boxes around the harbour , you can cut the sides or bases with a jig saw and give them a good wash , they flex nicely.
 

Trident

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Polyester resin will not stick to brown parcel tape which is PVC - just put it over any scrap cardboard and you can glass against it - no need even for release way on a flat (though I use it atop the tape when making tubes for things like depth gauges etc) . Pennies in cost and you'll have plenty left over for Christmas wrapping
 

Daydream believer

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I once used the side of a 5 litre plastic container. It was convenient because part of it matched the curve of the hole I was filling. I put a piece of wood behind it then a wire around the wood & through the plastic. I juggled the plastic in to place from the face side.

I then had another piece of wood across the outside of the hole packed up so it did not foul the surface. The wires went round this & were pulled tight. The first couple of layers of glass went in & allowed to harden so I could cut the wires & remove the wood on the face side. This allowed me to finish the work levelling it all off.
I could not get behind the work (A buoyancy tank) so left the plastic in place
 

B27

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Some dodgy advice in this thread.
Some plastics will dissolve in the styrene or resin.

Polythene is OK. PE, HDPE, LDPE... Poly ethylene...
I've used bits of wood, hardboard, cardboard etc covered with a couple of layers of plain old polythene bag.
Many plastic objects will have a recycling label on, indicating whether it's PE or not.
Brown parcel tape, the shiny sort, has always been OK with epoxy in my experience, but that doesn't have the solvent content.

Plastic milk bottles are all PE as far as I know, I use them for mixing etc.

You can use anything if you are confident about waxing it effectively.
 
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