Some works on new, for me, boat

[LorenzoC]

Hi to all, after what seemed to me an epic struggle I managed to buy an Elan 36 built in the 1998.
I know that it has some minor problems and we discovered others on the engine. The engine was partially repaired by a very good mechanic in Pula and he made safe our sail to Italy, were it'll moored this year.
What we need to repair are: water leak from some windows and one skylight, the lining of the cabin and the teak on the cockpit.
I need some suggestion about these three "work area":
1) I remove the windows, then I need to clean the black sealing with acetone, right?
I'll use sikaflex as new sealing? I f I would like to change the crystallize windows, I could use plexyglass or there is a nautical material?

2) I thinked to remove the lining and use a spatula on the residue, than I'll use the old linig as sample to cut the new ones. I saw the online there are a lot of material. Any suggested?

3) Which is the best way to remove the old teak?

Regards and, as we says in Italy, good wind to you all

 

[Hacker]

I suggest you use butyl to seal the windows. Sikaflex would be difficult to remove the next time.

 

[MoodySabre]

The windows are best removed and re-bedded using butyl tape or a butyl sealer in a cartridge like Arbomast.

That's all I have experience of.

 

[Fr J Hackett]

As others have said butyl tape for sealing the windows in the aluminium frames. As for the cockpit teak I have only ever been on one elan and it was quite a while ago, the teak if it was teak, may have been a composite seemed to have been bedded into the GRP mouldings and was flush with the surface. If my memory is correct you are going to have to dig it out and grind back to a clean substrate then fit replacement strips or pre manufactured panels. Would be worth contacting the manufacturer they could also advise on headlinings.

 

[Stemar]

Plexiglass or polycarbonate are the best materials for windows. I don't know about Italy but, in the UK there are plenty of on-line suppliers which will be a LOT cheaper than having the windows cut to shape. It's easy enough to cut, and plenty of info and videos online.

BTW, another vote for Butyl, whether it be tape or from a tube.

For the cabin lining, there are so many ways to do do it, ranging from vinyl to wood to carpet. If you like the look, there's a flexible, stretchable carpet sold to line out home brew camper vans, and that would probably be the most straightforward. Again loads of how-tos on line

 

[PetiteFleur]

Another vote for butyl tape for bedding the frame to the grp but fit stainless washers
on each fixing bolt/screw to prevent the butyl tape being squeezed out.

 

[Concerto]

With regard to removing the teak, use a multitool with a wide blade. You will have to carefully open an area up using an ordinary chisel to get the wide blade in if they are fitted in recesses in the moulding. Then just cut through the adhesive layer and break the wood away. I say wood as some "teak" decks are 3mm thick strips stuck to thin plywood to make panels. Then sand the remaining adhesive off.

If replacing only the cockpit and you do not have teak decks, then instead of using teak you could use Iroko and this will cost a lot less than teak.

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

Another vote for butyl tape for bedding the frame to the grp but fit stainless washers
on each fixing bolt/screw to prevent the butyl tape being squeezed out.

Between the frame and the body of the boat.

 

[Fr J Hackett]

Between the frame and the body of the boat.

I would be hesitant in introducing dissimilar metals in that area even if passivated.

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

I would be hesitant in introducing dissimilar metals in that area even if passivated.

If the washers/shims are embedded in the butyl seal there will be no electrolyte, hence no galvanic connection between the two metals.

 

[Fr J Hackett]

If the washers/shims are embedded in the butyl seal there will be no electrolyte, hence no galvanic connection between the two metals.

Difficult to guarantee but I take the point however if you need to shim then an aluminium or plastic washer would be my choice.

 

[steveeasy]

The windows are best removed and re-bedded using butyl tape or a butyl sealer in a cartridge like Arbomast.

That's all I have experience of.

Arbor flex it’s less than a tenner and really good stuff.
Steveeasy

 

[Robin]

Does the OP's Elan have Lewmar windows/opening ports as around that time of build there were problems with a Lewmar design fault in the frames (extra screwhole not required?) that took ages to correct. We had them on a Benny Oceanis 36CC as did friends with a Bowman 42. Cure was to rake out sealant between exterior frame half joins and apply new. Lewmar even had a 'how to fixit sheet' with diagrams. Took me multiple tries but it worked in the end.