Sole board varnish question

[sailorman]

Had similar experience with B&Q acrylic floor varnish, it went milky and softened when wet and didn't seem to penetrate properly. Had to take off the whole lot and do it again with Ronseal Ultra Tough polyurethane.

No acrylic varnish or paint will "Will penetrate" like solvent based coatings do

 

[Tranona]

The theory, I think, is that you are supposed to use Number 2 as well on exterior stuff. I have a tin of No 2 somewhere ,,. unopened after 40 years ...

Same here. Foolish enough to put failure down to my incompetence, so stripped off and did it again. Same result. Used the D1 as you did inside on teak and holly. Just went muddy and attracted dirt, so have stripped it all off (using, naughty boy, a belt sander) and refinished with Ronseal floor varnish as used by others. Massive improvement visually and hope it will last as long as promised.

 

[JumbleDuck]

we use No1 & 2 & followed the instructions to the letter

It's just cr*p outdoors, then. Mind you, Burgess Hydrosol is even worse.

 

[JumbleDuck]

Same here. Foolish enough to put failure down to my incompetence, so stripped off and did it again. Same result. Used the D1 as you did inside on teak and holly. Just went muddy and attracted dirt, so have stripped it all off (using, naughty boy, a belt sander) and refinished with Ronseal floor varnish as used by others. Massive improvement visually and hope it will last as long as promised.

My expereince with the Number 1 indoors is that you have to keep the surface damp, but not wet, with it for a couple of days to get a good finish. That means regular very light coats, and smoothings out in between. It's when it builds up any wet thickness that it seems to go nasty.

 

[JumbleDuck]

My expereince with the Number 1 indoors is that you have to keep the surface damp, but not wet, with it for a couple of days to get a good finish. That means regular very light coats, and smoothings out in between. It's when it builds up any wet thickness that it seems to go nasty.

I tried International Woodseal outside this year, and that seems to have worked very well.

 

[sailorman]

I tried International Woodseal outside this year, and that seems to have worked very well.

i found the same in the small amount of ext teak we have, its a shame there is a slight tint added to it

 

[EuanMcKenzie]

currently using epifanes satin finish on my floor boards and they are coming up well. They are small enough to take home and do in the warm workshop though. The original coatings we wearing through so i had to do something. First time I've done it so we'll see how they last.

Interestingly by binnacle is in Deks Olje 1&2 and has survived well and my cockpit seats are in no 1 only and also doing well. Just re oil them occasionally. It has to go on dry IMHO or it is a disaster. I have a cockpit cover which helps when recoating

i had my cockpit fully stripped to wood before i used it.

I oil my internal wood with no 1 and it has also come up well. It is an old boat though and the original coatings are traditional oily varnishes. Could it be a consequence of mixing incompatible substances on the wood?

 

[JumbleDuck]

i found the same in the small amount of ext teak we have, its a shame there is a slight tint added to it

Yes. I bought the lightest possible and it looks OK. Normally I'm agin' putting anything on teak but I had 3' of capping rail replaced last winter and without the Woodseal it stuck out like a sore thumb ...

 

[Minchsailor]

I have used for the first time Blacfriars polyurethane one pack floor varnish satin - 7 coats on some floorpanels. Looks great. Judging by the difficulty in sanding it, it is very hard. Will report back in a few years whether it is hard wearing. It is virtually colourless, so does not tint the wood. I have always found Blackfriars' varnishes to be far superior to the normal yottie brands.

 

[tudorsailor]

I am about to revarnish the floor and the boat builder has recommended International Goldspar Satin

IN the meantime can I drift the thread a little??? Is there a way of lifting up the dings that I have in the veneer of the sole boards?

TS

 

[alahol2]

IN the meantime can I drift the thread a little??? Is there a way of lifting up the dings that I have in the veneer of the sole boards?TS

I've taken dents out of a table top by ironing a piece of damp rag over the dent. The steam makes it expand back to normal position. Sometimes needs several attempts.

 

[ksutton]

I've taken dents out of a table top by ironing a piece of damp rag over the dent. The steam makes it expand back to normal position. Sometimes needs several attempts.

Thats a great tip, thank you, will give it a try in a week or two when I do my cabin floor again.

 

[Vara]

Thats a great tip, thank you, will give it a try in a week or two when I do my cabin floor again.

If working with veneer, be very careful using the steam tecnique, I tried it on a veneered surface and it broke the veneer bond, I ended up with a bigger problem than the one I started with.

I have used steam on solid wood surfaces and it does ''sort of '' work.

 

[Elessar]

thank you all. He did the yacht varnish in the end and it looked good. All the advice much appreciated.