Solar panel testing

Yes the meter will nicely measure the amps and battery volts. (or panel volts if you wish) The amp meter wires must be in the negative circuit of the panel to battery. Or regulator to battery. The meter requires a supply voltage and draws 20 or 30 milliamps so both the supply and measuring wires are connected to the positive wire to the battery. (via a fuse the same fuse as the reg to batt+ve) The light black negative wire for supply and measuring also go to the battery negative. It will work quite nicely as mine does.
You might want to fit a switch in the pos supply to meter wire to turn it off to minimise power wastage when not on board.
olewill
 
Thanks for the replies, I'm pleased that's quite a find, I was going to fit an LCD that would display volts only.

Cheers for the tip on the switch Wiliam.
 
As is usually the case, I am struggling with interpreting the wiring instructions, which are here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311798730788

This is what I am thinking so far, with feeds in from 4 solar panel sources, each can be switched on/off. LCD panel also has a seperate switch (as per Will)

solar-wiring-diagram.png


But I am unsure of the thin black wire the text says connect it, the diagrams so not to?

Guidance much appreciated.
 
The meter needs to be connected to +ve and -ve to work so provided the +ve is connected to a permanent battery feed then it can presumably receive the negative (ground) through the meter com provided that is grounded permanently on the meter input side? I think in your case with your wiring above you will need to connect it but you could always try without and see if it works.

Richard
 
Just note the wiring diagram shows a shunt in the negative line. The meter you have is only to 10 amps so does not use an external shunt. Just use the 2 heavy wires black to battery negative red to solar panel negative.
The thin black wire should connect to the battery negative though as said it may work with no connection.
The meter is an LED type used light emitting diodes so uses some current to light it. (hence switch)
LCD stands for liquid crystal display. Uses very little current but does need external light to read it. Just to be pedantic. olewill
 
William_H said:
Just note the wiring diagram shows a shunt in the negative line. The meter you have is only to 10 amps so does not use an external shunt. Just use the 2 heavy wires black to battery negative red to solar panel negative.
olewill
Click to expand...

As Gary will be using 4 solar panels I would be concerned that on a sunny day he might well generate more than 10A unless the panels are very small. I think that he might well need the external shunt?

Richard
 
If indeed he needs an amp meter of capability more than 10 Amps then he should go for a higher rated amp meter with an external shunt. He could try removing the shunt from inside the meter. A surface mounted resistor that is chunky compared to other components. He would then have to buy a shunt or make one. They are easy enough to make indeed you can use the volt drop of a piece of the supply cable but the problem then is to get the amp meter calibrated. Not hard if you already have a calibrated amp meter. All very complicated. Best buy another amp meter they are cheap enough. olewill
 
RichardS said:
How many watts are your panels nominally rated at Gary? If they are less than 50W each then you will indeed be lucky to ever get 10A. :(

Richard
Click to expand...

I have three permanent, 1 x 40w and 2 x 20w, and then I have a 100w that I plugin at anchor. But I would like to leave a margin for maybe bigger in the future.

Thanks for your advice Richard.
 
GaryCottam said:
I have three permanent, 1 x 40w and 2 x 20w, and then I have a 100w that I plugin at anchor. But I would like to leave a margin for maybe bigger in the future.

Thanks for your advice Richard.
Click to expand...

You will not yield 10a with all of those panels Gary.

Switching each panel seems pointless, switching the whole bank is OK and the switch Will advised is a good idea.
 
PaulRainbow said:
Switching each panel seems pointless, switching the whole bank is OK and the switch Will advised is a good idea.
Click to expand...

The idea was that I could switch one panel on at a time and get some idea of the volts and amps each is producing. In the past I have been underwhelmed with overall solar performance and have wanted to check that I didn't have a dead panel. In the past with all wired in to one chocolate box, any test has been really awkward in a confined space.
 
GaryCottam said:
The idea was that I could switch one panel on at a time and get some idea of the volts and amps each is producing. In the past I have been underwhelmed with overall solar performance and have wanted to check that I didn't have a dead panel. In the past with all wired in to one chocolate box, any test has been really awkward in a confined space.
Click to expand...

Understand. I'm really pleased with my solar setup, 2x100w panels and 2x30w panels are producing more than i need.
 
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