Soaking the anchor
- Thread starter dylanwinter
- Start date
JumbleDuck
Well-Known Member
Couldn;t agree more. I am sure that a lot of problems people report with anchors arise from dropping them and straight way blasting around with the engine going full belt and the anchor lolloping across the bottom.
dylanwinter
Well-Known Member
he is a most intelligent and thoughful fellow....John Vigor I mean rather than you... although you might be as well
D
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JumbleDuck
Well-Known Member
Noted for it, m'dear fellow, noted for it.
Kelpie
Well-Known Member
Half an hour seems rather a lot though! Up to that point I was thinking "yup, exactly what I do..."
I generally put the engine in idle astern and then, whilst it is still running, blow up the dinghy using the electric pump. Finally I'll give a good blast of astern whislt watching a transit, then turn the engine off. But closer to five minutes in total, than half an hour.
I generally put the engine in idle astern and then, whilst it is still running, blow up the dinghy using the electric pump. Finally I'll give a good blast of astern whislt watching a transit, then turn the engine off. But closer to five minutes in total, than half an hour.
bikedaft
Well-Known Member
Ok i'll bite 
I've not yet seen a static anchor (except large concrete cubes!) - they are designed to be dynamic. Hopefully not moving too far, sure... I'll admit that hard sand or clay can be an issue (i'll also admit to a very old CQR, sorry!)
Also i tend to use the aftwards momentum of the boat to dig it in initially before doing the forwards/aft thing with the engine. Its usually pretty obvious if its dug in initially.
I've not yet seen a static anchor (except large concrete cubes!) - they are designed to be dynamic. Hopefully not moving too far, sure... I'll admit that hard sand or clay can be an issue (i'll also admit to a very old CQR, sorry!)
Also i tend to use the aftwards momentum of the boat to dig it in initially before doing the forwards/aft thing with the engine. Its usually pretty obvious if its dug in initially.
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
Anchored near Poros last year we watched a yacht anchoring using almost the exact opposite of that method. Doing a speed that we estimated to be at least four knots astern he dropped his NG anchor and a decent scope of chain, then stopped the windlass. The boat stopped dead, it was almost possible to hear the chain go 'Twang'! Although I have never gone to such extremes I very rarely wait after dropping the anchor and always prefer the situation that there is a significant amount of wind, drop the anchor and run out the required amount of chain fairly quickly. The boat blows sideways until the chain tightens, when it is immediately obvious. I then motor astern for a while to improve setting even more.
bikedaft
Well-Known Member
likewise i often anchor going forwards, downwind, paying out the chain as i go, then using the forward momentum of the boat to dig the anchor in. i occasionally worry about hitting the (stationary) prop as it comes tight, as it gives it a hefty grunt, but ok so far (boat usually 5-10deg off the line of the chain as it tightens)
macd
Well-Known Member
The blogger is clearly correct in principle, but half an hour?! Time is of the essence when there are G&Ts to be constructed.
As Vyv said, far easier when there's a good breeze to do most of the work for you (and assure you any neighbours aren't lying all over the shop, at least here in non-tidal waters).
As Vyv said, far easier when there's a good breeze to do most of the work for you (and assure you any neighbours aren't lying all over the shop, at least here in non-tidal waters).
ghostlymoron
Well-Known Member
I can see the theory behind soaking the anchor under certain circumstances. Most grades of sand and silt are, to a certain extent, thixotropic and will fluidise when weight is applied. Try standing on wet sand and wiggling about, you will find that you slowly sink. More so in so called quick sand. So an anchor will slowly sink under its own weight which will give it a head start when trying to 'set' it. Conversely sudden high loads could cause the sand to harden again.
Minchsailor
Well-Known Member
I anchor a lot. My preferred technique is to get the anchor over the bow, so it is ready to drop. Come up to the position, then start to drop it on the windlass just before the bows blow off, the put the engine in astern tickover as the chain runs out.
Leave the engine in tickover for a minute or so, then give it gradually more powerful bursts of astern, allowing the boat to surge forward a bit before going astern again. Finally, full astern to make sure all is OK.
Rarely fails.
Leave the engine in tickover for a minute or so, then give it gradually more powerful bursts of astern, allowing the boat to surge forward a bit before going astern again. Finally, full astern to make sure all is OK.
Rarely fails.
oldharry
Well-Known Member
...hotly pursued by an irate seahorse hugger if you are in Studland! Seriously though, it is this practice of giving a full blast on the engine straight away before the anchor has set properly that is likely to be the main cause of the problem in sensitive places like Studland. RYA advice recommends only a moderate 'nudge' with the engine to set the anchor to minimise disturbance in sensitive seabed areas. This is quite likely to become the standard advice for MCZ areas responding to the 'no anchor' demands of some conservos.
RupertW
Well-Known Member
I think the full astern technique is pretty important for an overnight stop, particularly if in a tideless area with no wind now, but a lot expected later. I tend to drop it, lay chain out in the direction I expect to lie then do tickover astern until the chain is taut, then if it doesn't drag gradually increase the revs over a minute or so to check whether I am dug in, and to ensure I'm not too close to the boats behind me. I often have to anchor in crowded places.
The other advantage of stretching the chain out is that I will then usually settle in the place where I would be if the wind gets right up so it's harder for me to fall back onto the bows of the next boat that anchors right under my stern. Not convinced about taking minutes to settle except where there is a thick layer of very silty mud.
JumbleDuck
Well-Known Member
I think that's absolutely fine (as if I had any say in the matter) and the key is "gradually increase the revs". No problem pulling hard once it's dug in - it's dropping the thing and immediately towing it at speed across the bottom which causes problems.
My general anchoring technique (using the term loosely) is to sail in, drop the anchor while moving at reasonable speed and then use it to bring the bows round when the chain goes taut. If it works, which is usually does (CQR) I stow the sails and put the kettle on. If it doesn't, I try again. No option for a long jaunt in the hope the anchor snags on something.
30boat
N/A
I'm sure that the chain scraping the bottom as the boat swings also does a bit of dammage.
Niffler
Well-Known Member
I liked his final paragraph:
Tailpiece
“I’ve taken up freelance journalism as a career.”
“Great. Sold anything yet?”
“Yes — my watch, my camera, my iPod, my car ...”
Tailpiece
“I’ve taken up freelance journalism as a career.”
“Great. Sold anything yet?”
“Yes — my watch, my camera, my iPod, my car ...”
ghostlymoron
Well-Known Member
I'm going to try more manouevres without engine this year, including anchoring. I'm interested in how the old sailors used to manage without powerful and reliable engines.
30boat
N/A
They sank a lot.
KellysEye
Well-Known Member
Soak an anchor. You set it.
JumbleDuck
Well-Known Member
I make a point of doing all anchoring, mooring and departing under sail unless there is a strong reason not to, like a flat calm. This is mainly for fun and partly because I have a 1GM10 which is neither powerful nor reliable. Dependence on it would not be sensible.