So. West coast of Scotland

Saguday

Saguday

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Self and SWMBO’s medium/long term plans are somewhat adrift after all this B****t kerfuffle and we’re looking at novel alternative options. One is to base ourselves on the west coast of Scotland at some point. For those of a Scottish disposition, what do we need to know about being up there? Thinking western Firth of Clyde or, more persuasively, Argyll and Bute. Opinions on the marinas - Craobh Haven, Ardfern, Tarbert, Rhu, Kip, Troon? Options to moor rather than berth? Any other recommendations? Cruising conditions, weather (yes, wet), wee peskies etc. I know it’s a big subject but opinions and local experience welcome.
 
We've been in Kip for over 2 years now and can highly recommend it. Staff are professional and helpful, as are all of the fellow berth holders! All tide access, good facilities, great restaurant. Cylde in general seems sheltered compared to what we were used to in N Wales and English East Coast. If you're looking to moor rather than berth Fairlie (near Largs) might also be an option? Run by the same company I believe.
 
Saguday said:
Self and SWMBO’s medium/long term plans are somewhat adrift after all this B****t kerfuffle and we’re looking at novel alternative options. One is to base ourselves on the west coast of Scotland at some point. For those of a Scottish disposition, what do we need to know about being up there? Thinking western Firth of Clyde or, more persuasively, Argyll and Bute. Opinions on the marinas - Craobh Haven, Ardfern, Tarbert, Rhu, Kip, Troon? Options to moor rather than berth? Any other recommendations? Cruising conditions, weather (yes, wet), wee peskies etc. I know it’s a big subject but opinions and local experience welcome.
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If you want to come up regularly for shortish trips (maybe with one longer one) then the Clyde is probably best, as it's easier to get to. If you're thinking a a few longer trips, the extra three hours or so to get to the far west are probably well spent. I sailed my last boat from Crinan while living in Oxford.
 
If you want the west coast of scotland, base yourself on the north side of the kintyre peninsula, the cruising grounds and permutations open up dramatically.
The firth of clyde has a lot of adherents, but anyone who thinks it compares with the inner hebrides/outer hebrides/west and northwest coasts is blind :)
 
Are you thinking of living on or near your boat on the West Coast of Scotland, or travelling up to it from the south of England?
 
Saguday said:
Self and SWMBO’s medium/long term plans are somewhat adrift after all this B****t kerfuffle and we’re looking at novel alternative options. One is to base ourselves on the west coast of Scotland at some point. For those of a Scottish disposition, what do we need to know about being up there? Thinking western Firth of Clyde or, more persuasively, Argyll and Bute. Opinions on the marinas - Craobh Haven, Ardfern, Tarbert, Rhu, Kip, Troon? Options to moor rather than berth? Any other recommendations? Cruising conditions, weather (yes, wet), wee peskies etc. I know it’s a big subject but opinions and local experience welcome.
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As I am of a "Scottish disposition" with a boat in Plymouth some thoughts.

Scotland is just a tad colder and a bit wetter than Plymouth. Transport to Glasgow/Edinburgh is easy at the moment via EasyJet and FlyBe, rail is far more expensive. As a child the trains north of Glasgow were far more frequent than today. If you want to keep the boat north of the "central belt" then a car will become a necessity; the drag up the M5/M6/M74 is a pain.

The sailing is some of the best in the know universe, but you can't pop over to France for a decent "La Baguette Tradition" none of the white flour rubbish they sell here. However, bridies are the same as pasties (I think far superior, but that depends on the baker).

You should find that the dreaded midge [https://www.smidgeup.com/midges/midge-season/] don't fly over salt water.

Finally, lots and lots of anchor practice.
 
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As others have posted, a lot depends on what you want to do, and where in the UK you are travelling from.

The Clyde area is reasonably accessible (by both car and public transport); anything north becomes progressively more difficult and tortuous, especially by public transport.

I really cannot speak for the Clyde as cruising area as I have not been based there (except for the odd winter at Ardrosssan); but if you are based there and wish to go further, you are looking at some way of getting around the Mull of Kintyre, and if you have been following here you will know that can be a challenge; especially if the future of the Crinan Canal is in doubt.

West Argyll (S of Oban) - Allow about 2 1/2 hrs driving from the Kessock Bridge (from the M8, west of Glasgow). Ardfern, Craobh Haven, and smaller places (such as Crinan and Kilmelford) are all good marinas/moorings, but be aware that if you want to go north to Mull (and you will) there is a very significant tidal gate at the Sound of Luing, along with another troublesome spot at Dorus Mor.

N of Luing you are in the Oban area, with Kerrera and Dunstaffange, with smaller places up Loch Linnhe. IMHO Oban is a bit of a dump but it has the advantage of reasonable public transport links (3hrs from Glasgow by both train and coach, about the same as car) and a big Tescos. You are also in a much better position for cruising the Mull area and points further north. A mooring at Tobermory on Mull may be an option if you don't mind the inconvenience of the ferry; it could be worth asking the harbour office (the pontoons are exclusively for visitors).

North of Mull it becomes more challenging (but, many would say more rewarding). Don't be fooled by places stating that they have 'marinas'; marinas in the commonly accepted sense they ain't; they are pontoons with varying degrees of protection and facilities. Transport becomes more difficult; roads not so good and convoluted as they have to follow the mountain passes and go round the lochs. Public transport limited to a couple of buses a day. Immediately north of Ardnurmurchan there is Arisaig (moorings), and Mallaig 'marina', and I know there is a waiting list for both.

North of Mallaig options become even more limited. There may be a mooring at Kyleakin/Kyle of Lochalsh; Plockton has only short term visitors' mooring. Public moorings at Ullapool and pontoons at Lochinver, or even Kinlochbervie (for the brave). Inverness is the hub for transport - scale this into your travelling time. The (relatively) good news is that there are quite a number of places where you can easily leave a boat on a mooring for 2-3 weeks whilst you do something else, and at moderate cost.

The further north you go, the more you will notice the difference to sailing in the south (I was brought up sailing on the Hamble). Don't expect cosy pubs, well stocked food stores, being able to get water easily and plug into electricity. From next year white diesel may be a problem. As the Clyde Cruising Club SDs' explain "...yachtsmen used to cruising in better populated areas will find that a certain amount of per-planning and resourcefulness will be needed".

No doubt others from the area will be posting their own thoughts.

And, as an afterthought 0- the midges are not a problem away from the shore.
 
Dukester52 said:
We've been in Kip for over 2 years now and can highly recommend it. Staff are professional and helpful, as are all of the fellow berth holders! All tide access, good facilities, great restaurant. Cylde in general seems sheltered compared to what we were used to in N Wales and English East Coast. If you're looking to moor rather than berth Fairlie (near Largs) might also be an option? Run by the same company I believe.
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Thanks, that’s useful. I believe Kip and Craobh Haven are connected and you can have reciprocal berthing - is that still true?
 
JumbleDuck said:
If you want to come up regularly for shortish trips (maybe with one longer one) then the Clyde is probably best, as it's easier to get to. If you're thinking a a few longer trips, the extra three hours or so to get to the far west are probably well spent. I sailed my last boat from Crinan while living in Oxford.
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Dunno, not sure yet, probably thinking in a year or two out but starting to test the waters. Employment and other commitments keep us here so could be a season or two of short/long trips initially. Further out we wouldn’t rule out emigrating up there if circumstances dictated.
 
steve yates said:
If you want the west coast of scotland, base yourself on the north side of the kintyre peninsula, the cruising grounds and permutations open up dramatically.
The firth of clyde has a lot of adherents, but anyone who thinks it compares with the inner hebrides/outer hebrides/west and northwest coasts is blind :)
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Yes, I have to say my preference based on armchair googling so far is Craobh Haven/Ardfern area, although that is longer to get too
 
It's terrible.

The days are too long in summer - get woken up far too early and the sunsets last far too late into the night.

There are comparably few walk ashore facilities - you need to get your anchor muddy in lonely anchorages far too often.

Wildlife if carp - who needs whales, eagles & dolphins (note get the hebridean whale and dolphin trust app for recent sightings).

Anchorages are too quiet - rarely get party boats adding to the ambience

You never get to raft up to other boats to get ashore

You never have to queue to get to the showers

The water is often too clear and you get vertigo looking down at the starfish.

The seafood is terrible.

And don't get me started on the clear skies at night!
 
Romeo said:
Are you thinking of living on or near your boat on the West Coast of Scotland, or travelling up to it from the south of England?
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Very good question. Still working and waiting for kids to get through uni, but longer term plan is to semi-retire at some point and live closer to the boat. Choice is either west Devon/east Cornwall or west Scotland. European escape looking less likely now.
 
Sandy said:
As I am of a "Scottish disposition" with a boat in Plymouth some thoughts.

Scotland is just a tad colder and a bit wetter than Plymouth. Transport to Glasgow/Edinburgh is easy at the moment via EasyJet and FlyBe, rail is far more expensive. As a child the trains north of Glasgow were far more frequent than today. If you want to keep the boat north of the "central belt" then a car will become a necessity; the drag up the M5/M6/M74 is a pain.

The sailing is some of the best in the know universe, but you can't pop over to France for a decent "La Baguette Tradition" none of the white flour rubbish they sell here. However, bridies are the same as pasties (I think far superior, but that depends on the baker).

You should find that the dreaded midge [https://www.smidgeup.com/midges/midge-season/] don't fly over salt water.

Finally, lots and lots of anchor practice.
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Thanks Sandy. We love Plymouth and the south west but I also have a big love of Scotland (I grew up in Northumberland and we always went north when we could) so both areas are in scope. We may relocate permanently to either, eventually, but that’s a longer term process.

Midges are bad on the Crinan canal, I understand, so have ruled out berthing there. I am persuaded by a comment of a friend of mine who went 4 years live aboard with his wife all round the UK, Ireland, Norway, France, Spain, Portugal, the Med out to Turkey. When I asked them which was their favourite place and where would they go back to they said west coast of Scotland, without hesitation.
 
scruff said:
It's terrible.

The days are too long in summer - get woken up far too early and the sunsets last far too late into the night.

There are comparably few walk ashore facilities - you need to get your anchor muddy in lonely anchorages far too often.

Wildlife if carp - who needs whales, eagles & dolphins (note get the hebridean whale and dolphin trust app for recent sightings).

Anchorages are too quiet - rarely get party boats adding to the ambience

You never get to raft up to other boats to get ashore

You never have to queue to get to the showers

The water is often too clear and you get vertigo looking down at the starfish.

The seafood is terrible.

And don't get me started on the clear skies at night!
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You forgot the pesky mountains rearing up out of the sea ruining the view
 
Yup, the Crinan midges are insatiable, and while they do not bother me that is only because they have tried my blood and obviously decided to reject it, your nice fresh red stuff would only encourage them to continue breeding. The only problem is that nearly all the places mentioned can have as many midges as Dunardry, especially if you go North or West.

I would suggest that you try the Clyde first, there are several years of exploring before you get bored and move west, the culture shock will be easier to absorb there and you will find that there are fewer language problems with many native english speakers who have already done what you are planning to.
 
I’ve just completed my second season within The Clyde since the demise of Holyhead marina. I live south Manchester. I also sail Loch Solent and the distances from my home to Greenock and Portsmouth are pretty much the same. Car journey to/from The Clyde is consistently 4 hours. To/from Loch Solent is variable, seldom 4 hours and can be 7 hours. This can impact mood upon arrival!

Within The Clyde there are many anchorages, mooring buoys and marinas. Others have commented on the scenery. There are very many new places to explore, not just the distilleries:)

From almost everywhere, there’s a choice of day sail, weekend or longer. The furthest west we’ve been is Londonderry, Lough Foyle maritime festival. Not yet turned north after MoK.

Go for it, you will not regret it neither will you be disappointed.
 
Saguday said:
Bit too big a jump, although we’ve considered leaving for Portugal
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Norway is very pleasant, though the weather is generally wetter and often windier than Scotland. *excluding SE Norway which has more steady summers.
I found the preponderance of bare rock and coniferous forest wears thin in the eye after a while. Scotland has much more variety of scenery.
And beer has not reached £10 a pint.
 
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