Magnum
RIP
Yes I think it would, but there's no fixing point there strong enough to take the load.
Snubber/bridle revisted
- Thread starter Magnum
- Start date
Yes I think it would, but there's no fixing point there strong enough to take the load.
jfm
Well-Known Member
you use the winch for those jobs
jfm
Well-Known Member
The capstan itself, with a loop of rope around it.
Hurricane
Well-Known Member
Those are exactly what I was thinking - I didn't know that they are available "off the shelf".
Hurricane
Well-Known Member
Mk II
Yep MK2 should work - perhaps with some of those D section stainless strips as well.
You have probably seen this pic before.
It shows how we use the bridle.
The chain comes up from the anchor, through the bridle's chain hook and then "loops" back down (nearly to the sea bed) before rising back to the bow roller.
This actually gives the effect of a "chum" - using the weight of the chain.
The chain's catenary effectively starts under the water rather that at the bow roller.
Hurricane
Well-Known Member
Problem with that is that the windlass is used to let the chain out so that the strop/bridle can take the load.
Likewise, on retrieval, you need to use the windlass to recover the strop/bridle.
Well - thats what we would do anyway.
With a loop over the capstan, there is a risk of tangling the strop - or worse, it starts to wind round the capstan.
doug748
Well-Known Member
I think the stem is the place to bring the line aboard, it could be then taken around the winch ( without taking a turn if the lead suits) and made off either port or starboard. This would both reduce the load on the cleat and avoid the large loading generated by the scheme in post 1
It seems more elegant and robust to try and use both cleats but I think it is unnecessary and probably counter productive.
Winches are tough things robustly fixed, to my mind it is the mechanism that must be looked after, not the fixing or drum.
You might leave the snubber long so it could be made off at a length to suit the conditions or even brought to a clear further back ( or taken through one cleat and made off to another) if the case suits.
colhel
Well-Known Member
something like this near the capstan and sort of a straight line to the bow roller? http://www.norfolkmarine.co.uk/shop....html?osCsid=f7c9d39f6842b06b671932920086b26c but maybe with ball machine on top
MapisM
Well-Known Member
Positively +1. :encouragement:
With the side advantage that in Mk2 neither the snubber lines nor the chain can rub/pull the bow roller cheecks, possibly making some grinding noise.
I mean, the chain still passes through the bow roller of course, but with the snubber lines pulling from the fairleads, it just sits there, completely slack.
MapisM
Well-Known Member
I don't see that as an issue, because there's an inverse relationship between the angle of the snubber lines and their load.
I mean, when the chain just goes down vertically, by definition it's because there's no wind/current pushing the boat.
Therefore, even if in that situation also the snubber lines would go down almost vertically, their load (hence also rubbing action) is very low.
In strong wind or current, which is when the load on the snubber lines is much higher, their angle is bound to be much more similar to bow lines in med mooring.
Hurricane
Well-Known Member
It will be interesting to hear how easy this chain hook is to use.
When we had our 10mm chain, we used one of these chain hooks.
When we moved to the 12mm chain, we used this type.
Both are a bit of a faff to deploy.
But fairly easy to recover - they tend to fall off as the chain is recovered.
Magnum
RIP
Isn't that defeating the whole point of taking load off the windlass? Having said that with stretchy nylon, there will be less shock involved.
Hurricane
Well-Known Member
I don't think it is the taking the load of the windlass per se.
I thought it is more that the windlass usually has a clutch which can slip when the chain is tugged.
The V4 and V5 windlasses certainly have a cone clutch - though, I think the V8 has a dog clutch which might be less likely to slip.
Do you know which one you have?
I suspect it will be a V6.
Mine is a V4 which I have upgraded to a V5
Magnum
RIP
Confused. We have a V6.
Hurricane
Well-Known Member
Presumably you are confused about the clutch.
The smaller Lewmar windlasses have a cone clutch - you can see it in this pic -
the capstan screws the cone down onto the gypsy.
If you slacken the capstan, the chain will run out so it is only the clutch that is holding the boat on the anchor.
I wonder how many people don't know this?
Likewise, the gypsy cannot be used to recover the chain manually without the motor.
I believe that there are adaptors, though, that you can fit that will allow the gypsy to be turned with a handle manually but they are extra and I haven't seen one for a V6.
Magnum
RIP
Thanks H, but no. Confused why jfm would suggest using a loop of rope around the capstan as an alternative to a strong point on the stem head.
jfm
Well-Known Member
No way. The loop around the capstan would just slide on the capstan. It would definitely work well. To deploy, place loop around capstan and pay out chain till chain is just slack. To retrieve, wind in chain (capstan won't pull rope; rope loop will just slide) and almost immediately the rope loop goes loose and can be removed. Definitely works.
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jfm
Well-Known Member
Because a capstan *is*a strong point and this method places no load on the winch gears. The capstan shaft bearings can easily take the side load in their stride- you don't jack up you car when you park it. No complexity of Y ropes etc.
Magnum
RIP
It's that simple? Great! Why doesn't everyone do this then?
MapisM
Well-Known Member
Agreed, but I still would rather route the snubber line(s) through the fairleads rather than inside the bow roller cheecks.
Which in turn means that you can attach it to a cleat as well...