Smart home on a boat - How to re-wire those annoying Bavaria spotlights with in-built switches.

[Baggywrinkle]

My new-to-me boat is a Bavaria 44 Vision from 2008, and it has the standard Bavaria spot lights from the era all over the place. My problem is that being a short arse, and my partner being even shorter, we can't reach the lights without climbing on the seats or using a stool. The cabin roof is high, around 210cm in the saloon, and the lights are over seats, tables etc. so a stretch.

I wanted to control them centrally, like newer boats with switches in sensible places, but that would mean re-wiring the roof which is not a job I really want to do. So I've decided to go down the home automation route.

The lights are normally wired like this ....



.. with the panel powering a group of lights and the switches then controlling the individual spots.

Putting a Shelly relay into the headlining behind the light, and wiring it like this ...



... means I can connect it to the boat WLAN and control it without using the switch. The switch will still work, but can be over-ridden, and to get switch control back again is just needs to be cycled.
I can then use a tablet mounted on the wall to control all the spots and LED ambient lighting in the saloon.

In the other cabins I can leave it as it is, as the switches are reachable and I intend to install LEDs for ambient lighting, USB sockets, and reading lights anyway.

Would be interested to know if anyone has a better solution.

 

[PaulRainbow]

Perhaps not better, let's call it different.

We have 8 saloon lights, originally wired in series pairs, so 12v halogen bulbs on a 24v circuit, all from one switch. Heavy on power and 12v LEDS don't seem to like being in series. I rewired the light all in parallel and connected them to an adjustable DC-DC converter, this give a nice stable supply so the lights never change brightness if the chargers or heavy loads cut in/out and they don't get hot when the charger is on.

I've then connect them in pairs to Mi-Light remote receivers. Using the Mi-Light remotes i can switch each pair on/off or dim each pair individually. Alternatively all 8 can be turned on/off or dimmed collectively. See below for examples of the devices. The white handheld remote can be used anywhere, the black panel remotes we have fitted to bulkheads (a small backing plate is screwed in place and the remote sticks to it with a magnet, or can be roaming.

I also have a gate entry keyfob, with 4 channels, one channel turns the first pair of lights in the cockpit on/off when approaching the boat. Another channel controls the cockpit lights and a 3rd controls lights under the radar arch.

Receiver Pardon our interruption...

Handheld remote Pardon our interruption...

Remote panel (available in black or white) Pardon our interruption...

 

[Baggywrinkle]

Perhaps not better, let's call it different.

We have 8 saloon lights, originally wired in series pairs, so 12v halogen bulbs on a 24v circuit, all from one switch. Heavy on power and 12v LEDS don't seem to like being in series. I rewired the light all in parallel and connected them to an adjustable DC-DC converter, this give a nice stable supply so the lights never change brightness if the chargers or heavy loads cut in/out and they don't get hot when the charger is on.

I've then connect them in pairs to Mi-Light remote receivers. Using the Mi-Light remotes i can switch each pair on/off or dim each pair individually. Alternatively all 8 can be turned on/off or dimmed collectively. See below for examples of the devices. The white handheld remote can be used anywhere, the black panel remotes we have fitted to bulkheads (a small backing plate is screwed in place and the remote sticks to it with a magnet, or can be roaming.

I also have a gate entry keyfob, with 4 channels, one channel turns the first pair of lights in the cockpit on/off when approaching the boat. Another channel controls the cockpit lights and a 3rd controls lights under the radar arch.

Receiver Pardon our interruption...

Handheld remote Pardon our interruption...

Remote panel (available in black or white) Pardon our interruption...

That could be a good solution for the LED ambient lighting I want to install.

 

[PaulRainbow]

That could be a good solution for the LED ambient lighting I want to install.

There are different controllers and receivers for coloured lights, as you may have noticed. Oh, they also go by the name of Miboxer. Been using them for a few years with no issues, so seemingly good quality.

 

[PabloPicasso]

My new-to-me boat is a Bavaria 44 Vision from 2008, and it has the standard Bavaria spot lights from the era all over the place. My problem is that being a short arse, and my partner being even shorter, we can't reach the lights without climbing on the seats or using a stool. The cabin roof is high, around 210cm in the saloon, and the lights are over seats, tables etc. so a stretch.

I wanted to control them centrally, like newer boats with switches in sensible places, but that would mean re-wiring the roof which is not a job I really want to do. So I've decided to go down the home automation route.

The lights are normally wired like this ....

View attachment 185265

.. with the panel powering a group of lights and the switches then controlling the individual spots.

Putting a Shelly relay into the headlining behind the light, and wiring it like this ...

View attachment 185266

... means I can connect it to the boat WLAN and control it without using the switch. The switch will still work, but can be over-ridden, and to get switch control back again is just needs to be cycled.
I can then use a tablet mounted on the wall to control all the spots and LED ambient lighting in the saloon.

In the other cabins I can leave it as it is, as the switches are reachable and I intend to install LEDs for ambient lighting, USB sockets, and reading lights anyway.

Would be interested to know if anyone has a better solution.

At work we have a (high) ceiling mounted projector with the on/off switch underneath. I was amused when a younger female colleague climbed onto achair, and then a table to reach the switch.

In the corner was a tall dustpan and brush, she was mildly embarrassed when I showed her how to use the broom handle to press the on/off button without the mountain goat like antics

I prefer a low tech solution, a length of dowel of the right length to press the switch on your bavaria spot lights would be easier. If you want to be flash put a rubber end on the stick too

 

[Baggywrinkle]

At work we have a (high) ceiling mounted projector with the on/off switch underneath. I was amused when a younger female colleague climbed onto achair, and then a table to reach the switch.

In the corner was a tall dustpan and brush, she was mildly embarrassed when I showed her how to use the broom handle to press the on/off button without the mountain goat like antics

I prefer a low tech solution, a length of dowel of the right length to press the switch on your bavaria spot lights would be easier. If you want to be flash put a rubber end on the stick too

Tried that , the switches are mounted on the side of the lights and are small and stiff to operate, you need to whack them to operate the switch - not good for the long term reliability of the switch or the light - so we're climbing on the furniture until I have a better solution.

 

[PabloPicasso]

Tried that , the switches are mounted on the side of the lights and are small and stiff to operate, you need to whack them to operate the switch - not good for the long term reliability of the switch or the light - so we're climbing on the furniture until I have a better solution.

Perhaps a stick with a ball bearing mounted on the end to give it a bit of whack.

But sounds like a frustrating design alright.

 

[ashtead]

The units which as said are common on Bavs of all ages are not that well built so far as the on/off switch fitting is concerned plus the chrome type housing tends to lose its lustre . If electrically minded I might look at replacing the 8 units in the saloon if that is the main area of concern before fixing in the receiver remote controls indicated.

 

[Baggywrinkle]

The units which as said are common on Bavs of all ages are not that well built so far as the on/off switch fitting is concerned plus the chrome type housing tends to lose its lustre . If electrically minded I might look at replacing the 8 units in the saloon if that is the main area of concern before fixing in the receiver remote controls indicated.

Wanted to keep the switches as back-up should the wireless part go t!ts up. Mine are all still nice and shiny, so OK with the added bonus that with wireless control the switches won't wear out as quickly. I will re-visit it all at some point, but this seems like a quick-fix to avoid climbing on the furniture in the short term. The interior is almost "as new" so want to keep it that way ... this light is almost impossible to reach.

 

[ashtead]

Maybe an advantage of the height is a lack of grubby fingers touching the switches and chrome

 

[PaulRainbow]

Wanted to keep the switches as back-up should the wireless part go t!ts up. Mine are all still nice and shiny, so OK with the added bonus that with wireless control the switches won't wear out as quickly. I will re-visit it all at some point, but this seems like a quick-fix to avoid climbing on the furniture in the short term. The interior is almost "as new" so want to keep it that way ... this light is almost impossible to reach.

I leave my master switch turned on and use the remotes. If i turn the master switch off, they obviously all go off, if i turn it back on they all come on. In other words, the master switch overrides the remotes.

 

[Baggywrinkle]

I leave my master switch turned on and use the remotes. If i turn the master switch off, they obviously all go off, if i turn it back on they all come on. In other words, the master switch overrides the remotes.

Interesting. Will see what happens with mine.