Single lever morse control problems

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gtuson

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Two problems -perhaps connected? First: when engaging forward, lever tends to slip out of gear -need to push it sideways, as it were ,with spare hand while throttling forward. Something worn? Something too tight/loose? Second: end of cable near gear box slipped out of clamp(narrowly avoided disaster as went bacwards inadvertently in Canal du Midi lock!) I then held shiny metal ferrule at end of plastic sheath in the clamp - but this does not seem right either. Metal ferrule narrows slightly at aft end - is it sufficient that thecable is loosly prevented from moving aft by clamp on the narrow part? What then prevents cable moving forward when pushed into reverse gear? Sorry - its difficult to explain simple Problem and could not take photo! Any ideas anyone - I'm just not quite sure how its meant to be set up and suspect its always been wrong.....
 
G'day gtuson,

Let me say that engines are items I try to stay well away from, so I'm no expert. However I do recall the Morse cable has a special clip on the end that prevents the cable popping out, it's in tor engine room rolling around the floor somewhere I presume.

Also check the outer cable clamp for correct adjustment, disconnect the cable at the end and operate the selector by hand and measure the travel required, then re clamp.

The Morse control on deck needs servicing, some had a primitive clutch arrangement to stiffen the lever, sounds like yours has worn out. Also a good idea to remove the top end of the cable when your out of the water and tape a small funnel over the end, half fill with a suitable oil (not copper based) and put a container under the end below deck to collect the run of.

There, now you know everything I do about Morse, I hope this helps and am sure one of our engine room specialists will flame me for this.

Avagoodweekend.....
 
Something sound fairly worn. I had a single lever for an outboard and it lasted 10 years before the cam became worn and I struggled to put into gear. The cables are held in by clamps that fit into the groves on the end of the cables - normally. Another thought is that are you using the correct cables ?
 
replace it

the mechanism that alows neutral run is worn and what was a slot is now a ramp pushing the out the gear selector

if you could get the bits you might be able to repair but the bits are not sold so you will have to bin it

the clamp that holds the cable has a section that slots into th groove in the end of the cable relocting this will hold cable and sort 2nd problem
 
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Also a good idea to remove the top end of the cable when your out of the water and tape a small funnel over the end, half fill with a suitable oil (not copper based) and put a container under the end below deck to collect the run of.


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Teleflex Morse do not reccomend you attempt lubrication at all with most of their cables. They are sealed and lubricated for life. When oil is poured down the bowden wire, it can react with the sheath, causing it to swell, effectively jamming the cable. Best answer all round, if not in a 'get you home' situation, is fit a new one. The cost of a cable isn't going to approach the cost of repairs to your boat and anything you hit, together with the inevitable wallop on your insurance, if the gears jam!
 
More information needed, engine/gearbox/single lever control type/ abutment bracket type.

When I bought my current boat it had previously been fitted out 'professionally' with a new diesel.

The wrong type of single lever control had been fitted.
This one 'opened the throttle' i.e. increased engine revs before engaging gear, this caused damage to the gear change system, which required engine removal to fix.

The abutment bracket at the gearbox was also the wrong size allowing the cable outer to move.

If properly fitted out Teleflex/Morse control and 33C cables there should never be any need for adjustment as the control/cable/gearbox lever are all designed to be compatible.
 
New single lever control box is £65. Pair of new 4.5m cables £55. It can be tricky to fit them, but when they start to get stiff or the control box doesn't work it's time to bite the bullet. Morse type control cables are one of those things that either work or don't work, and when they don't work you have a real manoeuverability problem!
 
When new engine fitted I replaced morse cables and twin lever throttle/gear control with Vetus single lever. It all went in well, if a bit of a task, but there is where the enjoyment of DIY comes in. The engine handbook stated it must have a single lever control, so that is what I bought. A friend had bought the plastic housed Vetus control a year earlier and it had cracked, so I spent more and bought the stainless steel housing. Two 2.5 metre morse type cables were 20 euros each. The control lever was around 160 euros (prices in Canaries 2005)
 
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