Simrad TP22 Installation tips?

[MM5AHO]

About to install a TP22 Tiller Pilot.
The manual seems pretty clear, but are there any tips for installation that are not in the manual, or from experience should be considered?

 

[Black Sheep]

Yes.

Don't install it anywhere it might get wet.

 

[VicS]

use what ever is necessary from the range of mounting accessories and you should have no problems provided the position dictated by the measurements in the instructions is free from obstructions

Its only with non-vertical rudder shafts or very curved tillers that some extra thought is necessary.

Sadly as indicated above these things are not completely waterproof so some protection from heavy rain or spray is a good idea.

 

[lustyd]

Epoxy in the pin in the tiller - even a tight fit will pull out when you disconnect the TP.
Make sure the electrical connections are very secure, it's not fun and not immediately obvious that the TP has gone from auto mode to manual mode due to a power blip.
Measure twice, cut once, and when placing the device think about whether it's in the way rather than just whether it will work. For instance, there are fittings to put the mount on the side of the coaming but do you want that in your back when manually sailing and reclining? Similarly do you want it up the jacksie because you mounted it on the seat? Does the metal fitting on the tiller hit your leg, the boat or anything else that may get damaged?
Cheers
Dave

 

[lustyd]

Also, mounting kits are universal between these and the other brand so no need to buy the expensive accessories

 

[MM5AHO]

Thanks.
I bought the Simrad, as there are more negative opinions about the Raymarine than Simrad, and more stories of leakage on Raymarine.
I don't intend to connect it to anything than 12V DC, as the GPS fitted does not have waypoints etc, purely outputs position, and so far only used to update the VHF DSC radio.

 

[V1701]

I have recently installed a new TP22, they are supposed to have been tested in total immersion so should it fail due to water ingress under guarantee you should be covered. The electronics are apparently separately encased inside the main body so at least it should be an improvement over older models. The unit comes with good quality (Bulgin) through hull connector so there should be no problems there, just site it where it's not going to be trodden on, stick to the measurements in the instructions and it should be fine, though I did mount mine closer to the base of the tiller so the pin socket wasn't in the cockpit locker lid and all is OK...

 

[Black Sheep]

I have recently installed a new TP22, they are supposed to have been tested in total immersion so should it fail due to water ingress under guarantee you should be covered. The electronics are apparently separately encased inside the main body...

Well I hope your optimism is justified. I bought a TP10, which also claimed to have been tested by total immersion (though thinking about it, I don't think it claimed to have passed the tests...). It failed. After less than two weeks use. You may well be "covered" in that you can reclaim your money, but that doesn't help you when you're offshore singlehanded and you're faced with manual steering.

When I dismantled mine to try to dry it out, the electrics weren't encapsulated at all.

My recommendation remains, don't install anywhere it may get wet.

 

[Leighb]

My recommendation remains, don't install anywhere it may get wet.

Just curious, how can you install a Tillerpilot where it won't get wet?

We have one, it has put up with rain and salt spray for 2 years with no bother ... yet.

 

[V1701]

Well I hope your optimism is justified. I bought a TP10, which also claimed to have been tested by total immersion (though thinking about it, I don't think it claimed to have passed the tests...). It failed. After less than two weeks use. You may well be "covered" in that you can reclaim your money, but that doesn't help you when you're offshore singlehanded and you're faced with manual steering.

When I dismantled mine to try to dry it out, the electrics weren't encapsulated at all.

My recommendation remains, don't install anywhere it may get wet.

Sorry to hear that but useful to know, makes you wonder if some tw*t of a marketing executive has done a cost/benefit analysis and concluded that the benefits of making these claims outweigh the costs so they've just gone ahead and made them. I will endeavour to keep my TP22 as dry as I can, rest assured if it does get wet & fail I will make my displeasure very apparent to them, as I hope you did...

 

[Spyro]

Just curious, how can you install a Tillerpilot where it won't get wet?

We have one, it has put up with rain and salt spray for 2 years with no bother ... yet.

I think Black sheep forgot the sarcastic smiley

Good electrical connections with recommended diameter cable and not to much loss in the joints are a must. The first TP10 I installed would go into standby mode each time the ram reached the end of it's travel. Turned out to be a bad earth return.

 

[Stu Jackson]

We installed out tiller pilot with a bracket and pin UNDER the tiller, rather than the pin on top of the tiller. It was a lot more comfortable using the tiller when the AP was disconnected. Pins on top eat into canvas tiller covers, too.

Don't put it far away on the coaming if it requires an extension to reach the tiller. Ours lined up so the pin was in the cockpit seat. We simply slid the cockpit cushion on that side up a bit when in use - became a nice backrest on the back of the coach house.

 

[MM5AHO]

Got it installed yesterday..
The Rival 32 has a fairly narrow cockpit, so mounting the fixed point (Simrad call this the "cup"), was possible on the coaming. The fibreglass is only 8mm thick here, so I reinforced that underneath with hardwood glued in. The "cup" (a brass tube with upper flange for neatness, which holds one end of the TP). is epoxy glued into the fibreglass/wood hole drilled 0.2mm larger dia that the OD of the cup.
This left the half extended ram about 30mm short of the centre of the tiller, so I screwed a small block onto the side of the tiller (laminated wood), with the TP's pin epoxy glued into that block. Before doing that, I brought out the spare tiller I'd made a few years ago, but not getting round to trial fitting. It didn't fit! Was only about 5mm to saw off the end of it, but made me realise that in making an emergency device, its not much good unless it's been tried out!. This means that if I've weakened the tiller by having drilled holes in it, I have a working spare.
Running out of time, I only had an hour to "test drive", the TP. The manual recommends doing a turn and a quarter clockwise in calm seas at 2knots to calibrate the compass internal to the device. It should emit a beep when that's successful, or a long beep after 4 mins if not. I got the long beep twice!. Must have looked a bit potty, a yacht doing small circles off Dunstaffnage entrance yesterday afternoon, but no-one came to see if we were in trouble!
The fitting looks OK. TP sits level, reacts about halfway up the tiller, is easily detachable, the electrics wired in secure for sea (mounted the socket in the cockpit out of the way, and in a place where the cable will also not be in the way when operating.

It will be interesting to see about the waterproofing angle. I didn't open the unit up before installing, but must do so. My research (here and other fora) suggested that more people had problems with the Navico units leaking than the Simrad, and that the newer models of both seem to have addressed that issue. We'll see! Now for a bit more single handed sailing a bit further afield.
Thanks for tips.

 

[Black Sheep]

Good luck - sounds like you've got a good installation, and it really is a very handy piece of kit when it works.

On the waterproofing angle... I wouldn't open it up unless you plan to make internal changes (eg encapsulating the electrics) as there's always a possibility that it will be less waterproof when you reassemble than before you started. Don't know if it affects any guarantee.

But lack of tolerance to getting wet is a known problem - I've seen people who have made covers to go over them; I think it's ingress into the switches that's the problem.

Oh - and fit a safety line. Stresses can be quite strong depending on sail balance. If the coaming fitting gives way for any reason, it is possible for a tillerpilot to launch itself overboard.

 

[vyv_cox]

I have owned a TP30 for at least 10 years. It has been out in some horrendous weather but has yet to give any trouble. The only additional protection we give it is a reflective cover (ex windscreen) for Mediterranean sun. The black case becomes remarkably hot otherwise.

 

[doug748]

Mine has flooded, but as you say the electronics are in a separate box within. This still gives the motor a saltwater bath, though mine seems to have suffered no long term ill effects after I soaked the thing in fresh water, etc. I found the weak link to be the rubber O ring that seals the ram, it was in several parts. I now inspect this regularly.
When under power you must crank it up to maximum sensitivity, or it will take you all over the shop. Under sail the one or two "beep" level is often enough.
I have fitted its own little jacket but in poor conditions water gets in and it may do more harm than good. If you do this, be sure to remove it and dry it out when conditions allow.

 

[V1701]

Mine has flooded, but as you say the electronics are in a separate box within. This still gives the motor a saltwater bath, though mine seems to have suffered no long term ill effects after I soaked the thing in fresh water, etc. I found the weak link to be the rubber O ring that seals the ram, it was in several parts. I now inspect this regularly.
When under power you must crank it up to maximum sensitivity, or it will take you all over the shop. Under sail the one or two "beep" level is often enough.
I have fitted its own little jacket but in poor conditions water gets in and it may do more harm than good. If you do this, be sure to remove it and dry it out when conditions allow.

I wonder, then, if it's worth extending the rod, lightly lightly lubricating it (silicone lube?) and working it in & out a few times occasionally. Sorry that sounds a bit rude...