Simpson-Lawrence Windlass disassembly?

[vas]

looks good!
did you actually lasercut the gaskets?
haven't actually thought of doing so (got a few lasercutters at work, would be dead easy if you can get the paper nice and flat!)

cheers

V.

 

[rszemeti]

Yes, did the gaskets on my lasercutter. Its only a 10W CO2, but it does the job. "Spray mount" for photos is great for holding stuff flat, just tacky enough to keep it flat without sticking to it.

 

[ghostlymoron]

Yes, but I really don't fancy a manual one .. 10mm chain and a 45lb CQR takes a fair bit of hauling.

I didn't realise it was even electric. Must do research before I answer.
Please put up some pics when you finish it.

 

[rszemeti]

So, lathe work done, just the bolt holes to drill now. Still waiting for 2 oil seals to arrive, but everything else is here.

 

[rszemeti]

Getting there ... holes drilled. Screws even mate with their relevant holes, sorted.

Just need two oil seals to turn up now ...

 

[vas]

I assume you have some mech. eng. background judging from the A4 page on the background, or you've found it somewhere?
ah, and how are you going to sort out the s/s vs alloy electrolysis issue?

V.

 

[ghostlymoron]

I assume you have some mech. eng. background judging from the A4 page on the background, or you've found it somewhere?
ah, and how are you going to sort out the s/s vs alloy electrolysis issue?

V.

I think raz said he'd machine the spool piece from alloy. It does look shiny tho'. There will be issues with stainless fixings and alloy components best solved with that yellow paste stuff but you could also use nylon 'tophats'.

 

[rszemeti]

I assume you have some mech. eng. background judging from the A4 page on the background, or you've found it somewhere?
ah, and how are you going to sort out the s/s vs alloy electrolysis issue?

I'm an electronics and software engineer by profession, but have an interest in mechanical, and can produce a drawing.

As for the electrolysis issue ... the original casting that corroded was a Zinc diecasting, possibly the worst possible choice in a marine enviroment. Still, it lasted 30 years before giving up. This material is 6082T6 which has a good corrosion resistance, so it will be better (though not as good as 5083, but I couldn't find that in bar form) I'll give everything an extra coat of paint, assemble with lots of Duralac and hope for the best ... in reallity, if it lasts another 30 years, it will probably outlast me ...

 

[tullymoor]

To raise this subject again, this time 7 years later! My windlass, thanks to it's freshwater history, is in good general condition but needs service. The top assembly parts are removed with no bother. The 4 countersunk bolts that pass through the deck to fasten the windlass to the boat are removed. The motor and gearbox assembly rotate bodily a few degrees to the extent that clearance in the anchor locker allows and I expected the gearbox and motor to just lower nicely into the locker. It doesnt. Beating the top of the shaft from on deck just meets a solid, unwavering"thunk" and absolutely no movement. For the sake of the deck, I have resisted getting a bigger hammer. What do you think about it? Next move?