Simple Shore Power Instalation?

Why not just one of those extension cord things which roll up on a drum and has 4 sockets on it?

I guess some one will be along to explain that the earthing is not up to scratch and that you need bonded earths on all your sockets and then a galvanic isolator to prevent the anodes disappearing and may be an isolation transformer......

But the extension cord is perfectly adequate for the flymo - so why not?
 
michaelchapman said:
Why not just one of those extension cord things which roll up on a drum and has 4 sockets on it?

I guess some one will be along to explain that the earthing is not up to scratch and that you need bonded earths on all your sockets and then a galvanic isolator to prevent the anodes disappearing and may be an isolation transformer......

But the extension cord is perfectly adequate for the flymo - so why not?
Click to expand...

You've just described my present instalation :D

The roplem is I have to feed the cable through the washboards and and I keep tripping over the cables. I want a nice tidy set up wirh a couple of 240v sockets
 
You want a "Harsh Environment" consumer box with two breakers and a RCB. These cost around £20 from the electrical wholesalers. Install this somewhere dry and protected and all the sockets as you would indoors. As you intend leaving it on all the time also fit an isolation transformer in the shore-power IN cable.
 
I installed one recently. To save cutting a hole in the transom (or similar location), i located the shore power fitting in one of the aft lockers and then i cut a small nick in the locker coaming which allows me to pass the cabke through and still be able to shut the lid. The small amount of cable running over the stern is no problem and in any case the amount of cable running on deck always depends how i'm moored in any case ie stern-to, location of the on-shore meter box etc
Just a thought!
 
colhel said:
What's the basic requirements for a simple shore power instalation? I want to run a dehumidifier and heater in the Winter and them on when I'm not there. Other times just a kettle and stuff.

Thanks :)
Click to expand...

A quick reply

Look at the possibility of a fixed installation based on a "garage consumer unit" They are availble to relevant IP water proof standards, usually have a RCD and two mcb protected circuits, oneat 6amp and one at 16amps. They may fall short or requirements to have a common MCB on the inlet though.

For a less permanent arrangement look at the "Kampa" units for camping and caravanning. Single and triple socket versions available with mcb an rcd protection.
See http://www.towsure.com/product/Pitch_Power_Mono_Camping_Site_Mains_Supply_Unit
and
http://www.towsure.com/product/Camping_Site_Mains_Supply_Unit_3_Outlet

Either could be made into a semi permanent installation and wired though the usual shorepower input connector.

Fixed installation should comply with ISO 13297-2012.....but youll need a mate who has one that you can borrow.

Gotta go and buy some fish and chips for lunch must fly.
 
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There's been several discussions on this topic recently and none of the proprietory units seem to comply fully with the current regulations it seems to me. Mainly due to the lack of double pole mcbs. This surprises me as someone will usually see an opportunity and market a convenient 'box' to do so.
 
Jabamusic said:
I installed one recently. To save cutting a hole in the transom (or similar location), i located the shore power fitting in one of the aft lockers and then i cut a small nick in the locker coaming which allows me to pass the cabke through and still be able to shut the lid. The small amount of cable running over the stern is no problem and in any case the amount of cable running on deck always depends how i'm moored in any case ie stern-to, location of the on-shore meter box etc
Just a thought!
Click to expand...

I have the same arrangement. I don't use shore power that often but I have a double 240v socket under the chart table. I run a cable from that to the cockpit locket and fitted a CEEform socket which hangs in the locker. I have a lead approx 30m long with a CEEform plug and socket either end and have cut a notch in the cockpit locker lid for the trailing lead to sit. The lead can be rolled up and stowed when not in use and the socket in the locker is hung up out of the way.
 
colhel said:
What's the basic requirements for a simple shore power instalation? I want to run a dehumidifier and heater in the Winter and them on when I'm not there. Other times just a kettle and stuff.

Thanks :)
Click to expand...

A standard extension lead will do just fine. Just make sure that the sockets are somewhere they can't get wet - not under a drip, for example. For your needs, anything more is hysterical overkill.
 
I'm with the others here. I went to B&Q and got a double socket with RCD waterproof box, got a standard shore power lead, took off one end and drilled a hole from my cockpit locker to the bulkhead on which I mounted the box.

The locker has a couple of nicks in it, one a each end, so I can run the cable out either end, depending on where the shore power is in relation to the boat.

I have since added a longer extension cable, so that the "fixed" cable stays in the locker unless I need a very long lead.

Dead cheap, done in an afternoon, works fine and passed the survey :)
 
PCUK said:
You want a "Harsh Environment" consumer box with two breakers and a RCB. These cost around £20 from the electrical wholesalers. Install this somewhere dry and protected and all the sockets as you would indoors. As you intend leaving it on all the time also fit an isolation transformer in the shore-power IN cable.
Click to expand...


Why would you need an isolating transformer if the 240 volt system isn't bonded to the boat 12 volt system? If boat had a steel hull I could understand the need for an Iso Trans.

So if we risk asses it, what are the chances of the rest of the boat becoming live? score 1 to 10

And if you are bothered about problems when you sell the boat, remove the cables or take the fuses out and instruct new owner to get it checked out before use.
 
ghostlymoron said:
There's been several discussions on this topic recently and none of the proprietory units seem to comply fully with the current regulations it seems to me. Mainly due to the lack of double pole mcbs. This surprises me as someone will usually see an opportunity and market a convenient 'box' to do so.
Click to expand...

I doubt there is a market worth chasing for them, as many garage units are 32a and 6a MCB one has to swap the 32 anyway, so swapping the 6a for a DP at the same time. DP MCBs are available in the same physical width as singles (18mm) so bay room is not an issue, cost v double width ones is obviously higher.
 
ghostlymoron said:
So the safe answer is to install a garage unit and swap the mcbs for double pole units. Simples (and cheap).
Click to expand...

Are DP mcbs now required on individual circuits of polarised systems?
Previously they were only required in non-polarised systems otherwise SP mcbs were acceptable.
 
ghostlymoron said:
So the safe answer is to install a garage unit and swap the mcbs for double pole units. Simples (and cheap).
Click to expand...

Simples indeed, but quite that cheap as two off single bay size DP MCB are way more than a cheap garage unit complete, if you go for cheaper two section type then you need a six bay enclosure. I often fit 16 bay plus enclosures which I buy unpopulaed bar the incomer DP switch for multi circuit so no big deal for me but in small boats they are a bit large.
 
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My interpretation is that supply circuits should be DP, branch circuits may be SP, interpretation of the regs is made a lot easier when used in conjunctions with the explanatory schematics in the annex. I am also mindful that I have no control over where my customers plug into and whether or not they take any notice of RP indication so make every install as safe for every eventuality as I can.
 
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