Silicone: the devil's gloop

macd

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You'll so often read on these pages recommendations for bedding and bonding with silicone, most recently to a chap who was thinking of building a wet room in a wooden boat. OK, it's cheap, but it's also truly nasty. Every competent shipwright I've chatted to when the subject came up despised the stuff. It doesn't weather well in the marine environment, it attacks certain plastics, and above all it's so damn persistent. My own boat, bought last year, is riddled with the stuff, partly from original build by people who should have known better, partly from the previous owner's 'improvements' (and I know he didn't know better about a lot of things: his name is a curse on Cierzo). Much of it has failed. I won't have it anywhere near the boat.

By way of supporting testimony, see this from http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware&page=3
Avoid silicone where you can. There are only two situations where silicone should be used and that is for bedding acrylic dead lights or plastic fittings that are damaged by polysulfides or polyurethanes such as Beckson products. Dow 795 or similar should be used for acrylic ports/dead lights. Silicone contamination of gelcoat is very, very real. It is nearly impossible to clean and remove silicone from gelcoat and auto body products intended for metal are not safe generally for gelcoat. To effectively remove silicone from gelcoat requires judicious manual cleaning then wet sanding rinsing the paper frequently to clear it of silicone traces so you don't grind it deeper into the gelcoat. To test if the silicone is gone spray the area with a misting bottle of water. If the water beads it is not clean.

A friend owned a mid eighties Catalina where the previous owner had used silicone to bed the chain plates. Even after re-bedding they leaked every year for four years straight. He had even resorted to tenacious glues like 3M 5200, still it leaked. He finally called me to discuss it and we simply masked off the surrounding areas with 3M film tape and ground and sanded away the silicone contamination. The chain plates have been dry since, lesson learned the silicone must be COMPLETELY removed before any re-bedding. If you think you've cleaned dry silicone with Acetone, De-Bond or any of the other products folks claim have worked, guess again. Over many years I have tried every chemical under the sun to remove silicone contamination and the only thing that works is a thorough manual cleaning and sanding. If you want to nearly ensure that the fitting will leak the next time you re-bed then using silicone is a good way to ensure it.


Comments?
 
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I use silicone for a lot of applications, esp underwater fittings.

As long as you understand it is not a filler or a glue it is excellent stuff and available down the pound shop.

I think there are better products for specific areas like windows, however.

I have never seeen the case for the marine use of Sikaflex tho I did stick the sole back on my deck shoe once and it also made a grand job of glueing a wooden door to a fridge to give it that built in look.
 
You'll so often read on these pages recommendations for bedding and bonding with silicone, most recently to a chap who was thinking of building a wet room in a wooden boat. OK, it's cheap, but it's also truly nasty. Every competent shipwright I've chatted to when the subject came up despised the stuff. It doesn't weather well in the marine environment, it attacks certain plastics, and above all it's so damn persistent. My own boat, bought last year, is riddled with the stuff, partly from original build by people who should have known better, partly from the previous owner's 'improvements' (and I know he didn't know better about a lot of things: his name is a curse on Cierzo). Much of it has failed. I won't have it anywhere near the boat.

I never knew that. Which plastics does silicone sealant attack?

Used appropriately, I think silicone sealant is fine for many boat uses. The comments about silicone on gelcoat are only relevant if painting the boat, in which case I'd expect thorough preparation and wet-sanding anyway.
 
I never knew that. Which plastics does silicone sealant attack?

If you read the quote in my post, it'll give some examples. As I recall there are two broad classes of silicone that have effects on different plastics

Used appropriately, I think silicone sealant is fine for many boat uses. The comments about silicone on gelcoat are only relevant if painting the boat, in which case I'd expect thorough preparation and wet-sanding anyway.

Fine if you're quite sure you'll never need to re-bed anything, because it won't stick. Again, a graphic example in the quote.
 
If you read the quote in my post, it'll give some examples. As I recall there are two broad classes of silicone that have effects on different plastics

I did read the quote in your post, and it didn't mention anything about silicone sealant attacking plastics. In fact, I'm pretty certain that silicone sealant doesn't attack plastics at all, contrary to your assertion.
 
I did read the quote in your post, and it didn't mention anything about silicone sealant attacking plastics. In fact, I'm pretty certain that silicone sealant doesn't attack plastics at all, contrary to your assertion.

Fulsome apologies: you're right about the quote. However, some formulations are not recommended for polycarbonate or acrylic. The acetic acid released by he commonest silicone sealants is harmful to some rubbers, although for the most part silicone is non-reactive once cured (notwithstanding the fuss about breast implants, which is somewhat off topic). But mainly I just hate the stuff (says he having spent the morning trying to get rid of some).
 
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the

Fulsome apologies: you're right about the quote. However, some formulations are not recommended for polycarbonate or acrylic.

It's polysulphide and polyurethane sealants, not silicone sealants, which may attack acrylic, polycarbonate, ABS and PVC. That's why silicone sealant is often recommended for bedding plastic through-hull fittings.
 
It's polysulphide and polyurethane sealants, not silicone sealants, which may attack acrylic, polycarbonate, ABS and PVC. That's why silicone sealant is often recommended for bedding plastic through-hull fittings.

Thanks. I'm aware of that no-go...particularly having heard of resulting disasters in boat window fitting. As I said some formulations of silicone aren't recommended for acrylic and poly, but by no means all.
 
In theory I agree with avoiding silicone, but admit to having used it myself, including very sparingly yesterday on one small deck fitting, as my tube of white Sikaflex 291 had gone hard (bought for putting in new through-hulls in April), and I had a half-tube of fresh silicone just used for a house bath seal. My parsimonious Scottish nature could not justify about £10 to get about 2ml of sealant, the remaining 298ml of which would go hard in the tube. Better a silicone seal that will last a few years than a leak.
 
The whole issue reminded me of "sealing" some new ply panels in the cockpit. Within a year, the modern sealant had cracked away and leaked badly. The original panels (30yo) were sealed onto butyl mastic and were a devil of a job to pull apart as the mastic was still pliable and very sticky! I now have some butyl mastic tape in my toolbox.

Rob.
 
In theory I agree with avoiding silicone, but admit to having used it myself, including very sparingly yesterday on one small deck fitting, as my tube of white Sikaflex 291 had gone hard (bought for putting in new through-hulls in April), and I had a half-tube of fresh silicone just used for a house bath seal. My parsimonious Scottish nature could not justify about £10 to get about 2ml of sealant, the remaining 298ml of which would go hard in the tube. Better a silicone seal that will last a few years than a leak.

...and I'm sure the kirk would look kindly on your thrift, which is surely the Scottish equivalent of absolution ;)
Two suggestions for a blameless future life:
keep opened Sikaflex and its ilk in the fridge. Lasts a whole lot longer;
get some butyl tape: ideal for little jobs like you describe since it doesn't go off.
 
I avoid using silicon like the plagae. Horrible stuff gets everywhere, some idiot used a silicon based spray on the mast to free up the guides, a year later we sanded it and painted with two pack, then discovered the contamination. Had to strip and sand and several washes with Acetone to remove the rotten stuff.

I never use and certainly do not allow it on board or even near the hull when on the hard stand.

Good luck and fair wind to all. :)
 
would not have the **** near my boat, great for bathrooms and kitchens ashore. Use the correct/reccomended sealant for the job.
 
You'll so often read on these pages recommendations for bedding and bonding with silicone, most recently to a chap who was thinking of building a wet room in a wooden boat. OK, it's cheap, but it's also truly nasty. Every competent shipwright I've chatted to when the subject came up despised the stuff. It doesn't weather well in the marine environment, it attacks certain plastics, and above all it's so damn persistent. My own boat, bought last year, is riddled with the stuff, partly from original build by people who should have known better, partly from the previous owner's 'improvements' (and I know he didn't know better about a lot of things: his name is a curse on Cierzo). Much of it has failed. I won't have it anywhere near the boat.

By way of supporting testimony, see this from http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware&page=3
Avoid silicone where you can. There are only two situations where silicone should be used and that is for bedding acrylic dead lights or plastic fittings that are damaged by polysulfides or polyurethanes such as Beckson products. Dow 795 or similar should be used for acrylic ports/dead lights. Silicone contamination of gelcoat is very, very real. It is nearly impossible to clean and remove silicone from gelcoat and auto body products intended for metal are not safe generally for gelcoat. To effectively remove silicone from gelcoat requires judicious manual cleaning then wet sanding rinsing the paper frequently to clear it of silicone traces so you don't grind it deeper into the gelcoat. To test if the silicone is gone spray the area with a misting bottle of water. If the water beads it is not clean.

A friend owned a mid eighties Catalina where the previous owner had used silicone to bed the chain plates. Even after re-bedding they leaked every year for four years straight. He had even resorted to tenacious glues like 3M 5200, still it leaked. He finally called me to discuss it and we simply masked off the surrounding areas with 3M film tape and ground and sanded away the silicone contamination. The chain plates have been dry since, lesson learned the silicone must be COMPLETELY removed before any re-bedding. If you think you've cleaned dry silicone with Acetone, De-Bond or any of the other products folks claim have worked, guess again. Over many years I have tried every chemical under the sun to remove silicone contamination and the only thing that works is a thorough manual cleaning and sanding. If you want to nearly ensure that the fitting will leak the next time you re-bed then using silicone is a good way to ensure it.


Comments?

Polyeurathane if you want permanent, silicone if you ever want to take it apart again. Note the exclusions about materials and that silicone isn't a gap filler or adhesive.
 
I use tek7 for sealing jobs aboard. It works in the wet and even under water. Sick of flex is nearly useless on a boat and expensive. It maybe ok in a factory when new building but often fails , hence the number of soggy cored decks on modern GRP boats.

I must get some butyl tape

Always countersink the top hole before adding sealant and through bolting. This allows sealant to do its job, and stops all the Sealant being squeezed out when you tighten the bolt. Also prevents the gel coat cracking.
 
I must get some butyl tape

Always countersink the top hole before adding sealant and through bolting. This allows sealant to do its job, and stops all the Sealant being squeezed out when you tighten the bolt. Also prevents the gel coat cracking.

Check out the site I mentioned in post #1. It gives chapter and verse on butyl, as well as explaining butyl 'cones' to sit in the countersunk holes you describe.
 
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