Sikkens

The cetol natural looks good. Sikkens is great for covering old wood that wont clean up too well because it has its own 'stain' in it.
I have used it on old dinghies to smarten them up. On my current boat I would use something else for a higher quality finish, but it is personal preference. Certainly Sikkens is one for the sailor!
 
Vic

I thought the Cetol Marine had been bought by International, but I thought that was some time ago. I thought the marine gave an "orangey" colouration, and have preferred the HLS/Filter 7 in pine/deal.
I've used the Cetol HLS and Filter 7 on iroko and haven't had any problems.

IanC
 
I thought the Cetol Marine had been bought by International, but I thought that was some time ago.
They are all AkzoNobel. In fact think of a paint brand name ... chances are its part of AkzoNobel.
Crown which includes Sadolin and Sandtex isn't.
They describe themselves
"AkzoNobel is the largest global paints and coatings company and a major producer of specialty chemicals."
 
Vic

..........and have preferred the HLS/Filter 7 in pine/deal.
I've used the Cetol HLS and Filter 7 on iroko and haven't had any problems.

IanC

My Cetol Novatech is running out and I can't replace this down the local cheap shop, so let me get this right;

Cetol HLS is used - with Filter 7 on top to finsh the job

Like

Novatech is used - with Novatop as a final coat.

My shop has no clue.

BTW I have always used Novatech on its own with no problem (on teak), 'cept I would never call it hard wearing.
 
I've been using Cetol Filter 7 in 'deal' colour for the last 10 - 15 years with no other top or under coat. The coloured pigments don't mask the grain of the wood and once 3 or more coats are on you get quite a deep sheen finish. The ease of application/touch up more than makes up for the relatively soft coating. I don't rub down (other than damaged areas) between coats and I've never had any cracking or lifting. The only difficulty I've found is down to my shaky hand and not bothering to mask, getting drips/drifts off white GRP is a real pain.
 
The colours available were teak, natural and light as far as I can now discover.

I had not come across the gloss top coat before that's why I wondered if you really meant Novatech + Novatop. I have found reference to it now.

The only picture I have is this one , but the plywood wash-boards and locker tops are done with a gloss varnish.

( dont fancy the W. Windrush next door ??)


DSCF0468.jpg


I have been using Sikkens on my toerails, in the Med on a 38, they also have teak boards underneath extending down the hull some 6 inches in places, and have been very pleased not to be a slave to annual varnishing the high UV demands.
I also was not aware that there is a gloss coat now which can only add to the finish.
 
I also was not aware that there is a gloss coat now which can only add to the finish.

...except it sounds like maybe there isn't any more. Anyone got any more info on this? I'm holding off Cetolling my seats in case supplies to touch up become hard to find.

Pete
 
A few points;- you can buy Novatech and Novatop without any stain. Ask for base coat. I agree any stain whatsoever on teak is too much. My source was;-
sales@decoratingwarehouse.co.uk.

BUT! The problems I had were an apparent micro bubbling of the surface. I thought it was sanding dust despite my care but it wasn't. Sikkens (they were in existence then) advised that the products can draw resin and moisture out of the timber (in my case ply). They advise warmth some time before application and I tried a vacuum suck on the surface. You can use white spirit for cleaning before application. There is good information on the internet.

Despite that, it is dead easy to apply and really does bring out the texture. It dries with a mat sheen. It is not like a mirror.

If kept part used in the tin, it will slowly thicken and appears irrecoverable.
 
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