Sikkens Filter 7 Plus Colour on Teak.

[Lucy52]

I am looking at using Sikkens Filter Seven on Teak. They have a teak colour listed, also a pine colour. Which would give a clearer finish, allowing the wood colour to show through. Would the pine be too yellow or the teak too dark.

 

[coopec]

I'm about to redo the deck timber on my yacht with Cetol HLse.

I'm not too sure what you are getting at but did you see the Cetol color charts here?

Sikkens Filter Seven on Teak - Google Search

 

[duncan99210]

Neither. Sikkens will colour the underlying wood to whatever colour you’ve chosen, you won’t really be able to see the underlying wood at all. I use the stuff on window frames and garden furniture, where it works well. I wouldn’t put it on anything where want to be able to see and appreciate the wood your painting. It forms a skin in a similar way to gloss paint.

 

[Channel Sailor]

I have used it (teak colour) and as above, it has a colour of its own. After several coats it came out somewhat red in my case. I would not use on teak myself. For example one reason being my teak interior hand rails look nice with nothing on them and nothing to flake off. Though maybe on some boats a protective or pretty finish is needed.

 

[Lucy52]

Neither. Sikkens will colour the underlying wood to whatever colour you’ve chosen, you won’t really be able to see the underlying wood at all. I use the stuff on window frames and garden furniture, where it works well. I wouldn’t put it on anything where want to be able to see and appreciate the wood, you're painting. It forms a skin in a similar way to gloss paint.

Thank you, Duncan. It is just that varnish, though it looks wonderful, doesn't seem to last one minute. Maybe I am just feeling lazy. The weather hasn't helped with working outdoors.

Is there anything which lasts longer, and easier to maintain, than Epifanes Woodfinish? You see, I really am being lazy.

Channel Sailor, The wood needs a protective finish, grey wood just wouldn't do, it would spoil the boats charm.

 

[Tranona]

I used Sikkens 7 and HLS in pine (I think) on a Douglas Fir mast and it is virtually colourless. The grain showed through clearly despite 2 coats of HLS and 3 of No7. For the teak trim on the boat I used Woodskin and again very little tint allowing the teak grain and colour to show. Also used Woodskin on the teak companionway doors on the plastic boat. These were brought back from 4 years of exposure and as the photo shows look pretty good. They are exposed to the west all year round and still look good 2 years later.

First photo shows wood boat - just about all the brightwork, mahogany, iroko and teak is Woodskin, some first applied over 10 years before this photo was taken and just rubbed down and recoated. Second photo shows a bit more of the mast, third companionway doors on the Bavaria (not a good photo!)

If I were staring again with teak trim I would be inclined to go for Cetol 7 over HLS. I stuck with Woodskin because there was only a small amount of new teak trim to do and none of the rest needed taking back.

Hope this helps.

BTW I think there is some confusion over Sikkens products. The other 2 part product Novatech/top does indeed have heavy stains and while excellent protection (I used it on the mast for years) it finishes a dark flat aand covers the underlying grain and colour.

 

[Plum]

I am looking at using Sikkens Filter Seven on Teak. They have a teak colour listed, also a pine colour. Which would give a clearer finish, allowing the wood colour to show through. Would the pine be too yellow or the teak too dark.

I have been using Sikkens Filter 7 on Iroko and on my pine bowsprit for 20 years and I have always used the "pine" colour. It is very low maintenance, normally juts one extra coat in 4 or 5 years. This year, on my gunwhale and rubbing strips (iroko) I stripped back to bare wood for the first time in 20 years as the film was getting a bit thick and a bit darker. Three coats on, no need for rubbing down between coats unless there are any nibs or roughness, and it looks great again. Picture was taken when the Sikkens was 3 years old and looks just like this today.

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

 

[doug748]

I am looking at using Sikkens Filter Seven on Teak. They have a teak colour listed, also a pine colour. Which would give a clearer finish, allowing the wood colour to show through. Would the pine be too yellow or the teak too dark.

The pine looks a bit of a swizz because the colour is a bit thin looking and slightly odd, at first, on teak but I much prefer it to the darker shades. I did a test on my coachroof grab rails and it performed just as well as the similar Woodskin - though much cheaper. You do have to shell out for a 1 litre tin though.

.

 

[Lucy52]

Thanks, Plum. Plum looks like a show boat, just how it should, belying the hard work you have put in. It is nice to know that Sikkens Filter 7 lasts well and is low maintenance in use.

Epifanes only requires a once yearly rub down and a re-coat, but I think after twenty years it is now due to be striped off. It is suffering from UV damage and comes away in places, while adhering in others. The coating is thick and water has got underneath darkening the wood where it has broken. I have considered using a teak cleaner to try to lighten the darkened patches.

Doug, you are so right, I wanted to test a small piece, but you have to pay out for a one litre tin just to see if it will work for you. That is why I asked on here, as Cetol filter 7 has been recommended often. The Teak shade looks rather red to me in the colour chart, I will have to try the pine.

That will cost me a tin of HLS as primer and a tin of Filter 7, a scheme also kindly recommended by Tranora above, who gives it a good report.

 

[Gary Fox]

I use Filter 7 'Light Oak' colour on my spars, capping rails and hatches, and it is quite dark. The lighter shades, I believe, offer reduced UV resistance. It is fantastic stuff, and lasts for ever.

 

[Tranona]

I have considered using a teak cleaner to try to lighten the darkened patches.

Once you have stripped off try a teak cleaner - I used Wessex to clean up those doors which were very grey - and then sand on the water stained areas. Oxalid acid based and not too strong, but if the staining is deep you may need several applications.

 

[Lucy52]

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I use Filter 7 'Light Oak' colour on my spars, capping rails and hatches, and it is quite dark. The lighter shades, I believe, offer reduced UV resistance. It is fantastic stuff, and lasts forever.

I guess the UV resistance of Filter 7 will be better than varnish anyway, and it is good to know it will last “forever.” Maybe, not quite forever.

Once you have stripped off, try a teak cleaner. I used Wessex to clean up those doors which were very grey, and then sand on the water stained areas. Oxalic acid based and not too strong, but if the staining is deep, you may need several applications.

I have Wessex Teak Cleaner, previously recommended on here, the first part is caustic and the second part acidic, oxalic and hydrochloric, according to the COSH sheet. I bought it for the untreated cockpit seats, cockpit grating, and the handrails, I will try it on the water stains.

 

[simonfraser]

semco clear on teak makes it water repellent
nothing to flake scrape off when it wears off, just reapply

 

[Plum]

That will cost me a tin of HLS as primer and a tin of Filter 7, a scheme also kindly recommended by Tranora above, who gives it a good report.

On my latest tin of Filter 7 there is no mention of a primer coat of HLS, as there was on ones in the past, so just 3 coats of F7 this time. Will let you know if it lasts just as long in 5 years!

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

 

[pvb]

semco clear on teak makes it water repellent
nothing to flake scrape off when it wears off, just reapply

I've used Semco, it's very good.

 

[Gary Fox]

I guess the UV resistance of Filter 7 will be better than varnish anyway, and it is good to know it will last “forever.” Maybe, not quite forever.


I have Wessex Teak Cleaner, previously recommended on here, the first part is caustic and the second part acidic, oxalic and hydrochloric, according to the COSH sheet. I bought it for the untreated cockpit seats, cockpit grating, and the handrails, I will try it on the water stains.

I remember the Filter 7 tin saying you only need primer on new wood, so I didn't bother and it is fine.

 

[Tranona]

I discussed the need for HLS with the paint technician at Brewers where I bought it and his view was that it added value in terms of longer life on very exposed items, which of course a mast is. For obvious reasons too early to say, and guess I will never know as sold the boat. However in the whole scheme of things the extra cost and effort was not huge and I enjoyed that part of transforming a sad looking spar something that looked pretty good.