Sikkens Cetol + Iroko

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whosround

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Greetings, I have made a liferaft cradle in Iroko, which I 1st coated with cetol yesterday pm. Just got in and it is still tacky! I have used lots of this product in the past, but never on Iroko. Does it just take longer to dry on oily timber? I cannot see a use-by date on the can. Your thoughts please.
 
Cetol what though? First apply Filter 7, this should soak in & dry fairly quickly. Then the HLS Plus, more like a matt varnish & I suspect not the weather to be doing at present.

IanC
 
See International's website and the data sheets for all the info.

Said to be particularly suitable for hardwoods such as teak. I expect therefore no problem with iroko. I've used it on what I assume is iroko with no problems.

Should be used in the 10C to 35C temp range though. Relative humidity should not be above 80% and the substrate temperature should not be less than 3C above the dew point
Has yours been at a decent temp or are you using it in an damp unheated workshop?

It's not ideal weather for painting and varnishing at the moment.
 
ianc1200 said:
Cetol what though? First apply Filter 7, this should soak in & dry fairly quickly. Then the HLS Plus, more like a matt varnish & I suspect not the weather to be doing at present.

IanC
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Hi, It"s Cetol Marine wood-oil varnish. I brought it home to varnish, currently in the dining room (wife non too chuffed) 20degrees at present.
 
Worrying, isn't it? :D You are not alone.

I used Sikkens Cetol HLS on the exterior woodwork of our previous boat without problems.

I made a pair of 'patio doors' for our current boat out of teak (pretty sure) and painted them with the same stuff. I was horrified when it was still almost wet the next day, let alone tacky. Even leaving the fan heater on in the shed only got it to tacky after another 24 hours. For a week I brought them into the house overnight until eventually they stopped being tacky. 2nd and subsequent coats were 'normal'.

Not sure if it was because the wood was freshly machined - I used white spirit to 'degrease' the wood before coating, but I'm not sure how good it is compared to meths or acetone which I'd normally use.

Turned out OK in the end, though. (Ignore the bit over the top - that still needs doing.)

DSC_6902.jpg


Andy
 
Nice work Andy, I did exactly what you did, I bought the Iroko as a 6x2" plank and machined it myself. I warmed up the Cetol on a rad and wiped the timber down with white spirit as always. Still tacky this morning. Glad to hear it dries eventually though!
 
slow drying cetol

whosround said:
Hi, It"s Cetol Marine wood-oil varnish. I brought it home to varnish, currently in the dining room (wife non too chuffed) 20degrees at present.
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I had the same problem a year ago when refinishing washboards in an unheated outbuilding. Solved it by bringing the boards indoors ...no long term damage done.
 
If its any consolation i just put Johnstones woodstain on a rowing skiff's gunwales, they were iroko & the stuff stubbornly refused to dry and it was in a heated workshop.
4 days later i put the boat outside still sticky & it has eventually gone of.
 
Andy said:
Turned out OK in the end, though. (Ignore the bit over the top - that still needs doing.)

DSC_6902.jpg


Andy
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Andy, I'm loving your "patio" doors! What an excellent idea! No faffing around with washboards!

What did you use as the "glass"? I guess it has to be a pretty tough construction to cope with a potential catastrophic wave related event? Or do you have washboards also for when it's bad conditions?
 
CaptainBob said:
Andy, I'm loving your "patio" doors! What an excellent idea! No faffing around with washboards!

What did you use as the "glass"? I guess it has to be a pretty tough construction to cope with a potential catastrophic wave related event? Or do you have washboards also for when it's bad conditions?
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Thanks Bob (& Whosround) for the kind comments... I think they're brilliant too :)

The glass is just some smoked grey perspex that I had around (8mm??). They're not supposed to be storm-proof - they just lift off when not needed and the original washboards can be fitted.

They are, however reasonably strong and secure; wind and rain proof, and far more civilised to live with - no more clatter as one tries to creep out in the middle of the night, for example.

The washboards haven't been used since I fitted the doors at the start of the "summer". Thoroughly recommended.

Andy
 
CaptainBob said:
I want some! Don't have the carpentry skills or tools though :(
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You can buy them here - $900 :eek:

Seriously - they are not that hard to make (I'm no joiner, or even a carpenter [*]). If you could get accurate measurements I'm sure a local jobbing joiner (or hobby woodworker) could make up the frames quite cheaply (it's only the same as a couple of cupboard doors). The wood can be quite expensive, though, unless you can find suitable reclaimed timber.

Andy


[*] Not sure where I got it from but the difference was once explained as:

A cabinet maker works to the nearest thousandth of an inch;
A joiner works to the nearest hundredth of an inch;
A carpenter works to the nearest house.
 
ianc1200 said:
Cetol what though? First apply Filter 7, this should soak in & dry fairly quickly. Then the HLS Plus, more like a matt varnish & I suspect not the weather to be doing at present.

IanC
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Sorry to sound pedantic but I believe that HLS should be applied before applying Filter 7. The reason being that you do not want to mask the UV filering properties that the Cetol Filter 7 is designed to provide particularly in areas of high humidity and exposure to sun.
From experience it is a very good product.
 
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