Sikaflex....which one?

[Matata]

I want to place a solar panel 600*400 on the deck, reasonably permanently. The deck has a slight curve on it and the solar panel has four screw holes in it to place the panel. I have been advised to place it on a light bed of sikaflex"belt and braces". I can see the day come, in years(!) , when I might need to remove it and was wondering which sikaflex should I use?
Ta Nik

 

[dt4134]

Sikaflex won't stop you removing it if you ever need to.

I'd just use 291 of the colour that would look best where it leaks around the edges. Let the Sikaflex dry before tightening up the screws.

Edited: and you don't even have to be fussy about the type of Sikaflex. I've had no problems using leftover 290DC for odd jobs.

 

[VicS]

There is a vast range of Sikaflex compounds but there are two in the "marine" range that you might use they are both adhesive sealants and there is a good chance that you would not be able to remove the unit again without damaging it.

I fixed a solar panel in the way you described (and how specified in the instructions that came with it) using an ordinary silicone sealant. I totally destroyed it when removing it last winter ..... it had failed so that did not matter.

The Sikaflex Users Guide or Marine Handbook will help you choose the appropriate material (291 I guess)....... But if its Sikaflexed it's as good as permanent!

 

[carise]

In my experience, white 291 is stronger than any other colour- might be unscientific, but that's what I found.

BTW I entirely agree with VicS- 291 is as good as permanent- I would never consider using sikaflex 291 if you are thinking you may want to remove whatever it's sticking/sealing etc- you're almost certain to damage/destroy what it's stuck to by attempting removal and the sikaflex itself remains resolutely in situ!!

Having used quite a bit over last few months during topside refurb, colleagues have got used to me arriving at work with white sikaflex on hands and arms- took 5 days to remove some lol.

Paul

Sikaflex won't stop you removing it if you ever need to.

I'd just use 291 of the colour that would look best where it leaks around the edges. Let the Sikaflex dry before tightening up the screws.

Edited: and you don't even have to be fussy about the type of Sikaflex. I've had no problems using leftover 290DC for odd jobs.

 

[alan_d]

What do forumites generally use instead of Sikaflex 291 for bedding something they may want to remove later?

 

[andythilo]

What about a high quality exterior grade silicone sealant? Unibond probably sell something for the task.

 

[arth_tumbleweed]

Sikaflex will make it a pretty permanent fixture to your boat - if you ever need to take it off, it will take a lot of time & patience. 291 is the bedding compound and 292 is the adhesive one...use 292 and definitely sell the boat when it comes to taking it off!

A standard silicon sealant like Dow Corning would do, available from most chandleries, or if you don't have a never ending supply of cash, most silicon's from a DIY shop do the trick, Evostick or Unibond (I would avoid the Evostick "Sticks Like" as this is supposed to be as good as Sikaflex!)

 

[Woodlouse]

Arbokol 1000 if you want it to be removable after a few years. Might not let go easy mind, but it won't stick like sika.

 

[sjclewes]

northshore use arbocol 1000 under all there deck fittings and for fitting keels stays putty like

 

[alan_d]

Arbokol 1000 if you want it to be removable after a few years. Might not let go easy mind, but it won't stick like sika.

Thanks Woodlouse (and sjclewes). I plan to take my engine control panel (in an exposed cockpit) off to fit a tinytach, and I want to fix it back on with something durable but not immovable. Arbokol 1000 sounds just right.

 

[SAMYL]

What do forumites generally use instead of Sikaflex 291 for bedding something they may want to remove later?

Try CT1, brilliant stuff and much better than Sikaflex. It will even stick underwater.
It is now the glue of choice for repairing inflatable boats when even the makers' stuff fails. Not that easy to get hold of though some builders are now starting to stock it. Ebay too.
As for cleaning excess Sikaflex or CT1 on materials and hands, use cellulose thinners, preferably before it sets!

 

[Appleyard]

Sikaflex

Go into your local builder's merchants and get a tupe of "STICKS LIKE SH*T" made by Evostick. This is the best adhesive we have come across since Araldite. It even works underwater.,.It is a fraction of the price of Sikaflex,and has a ling life in the tube,even after opening,provided you keep it sealed. I have used it for lots of jobs on the boat,eg sticking fendering to the stern,and repairing the dinghy.However the most impressive job was in Turkey several weeks ago. We were mooring up to a quay where there was s shortage of mooring rings. I spotted a ring whose baseplate had become detached from the concrete. I applied a dollop of SLS ,stuck it on to the quayside ,waited half an hour and tied on. Despite a strong swell,it stayed put.even after I tested it by running the engine ahead and trying to jerk it free. No chance!! it is still there.

 

[Woodlouse]

If you want to stick something to something else permanently then you could do worse than 3M 5200.

 

[Pye_End]

My only experience of trying to remove some wood stuck on with 291 was that it tooK the gel coat off. Very sticky. I only use it with things that will be permanent, otherwise prefer less sticky sikaflex (forget which number) or use Dow Cornice (as it is in thelocal chandler!).