woozy-UK
Well-Known Member
I think I'll improve my engine flushing regime!
It's just the water in the barrel at the yacht club looks like it might do more harm than good....
same at out club, also im on a swing mooring so no way to flush the engine
sick and tired of my honda BF5A engine. constant issues. want another. what to get?
- Thread starter woozy-UK
- Start date
same at out club, also im on a swing mooring so no way to flush the engine
sparkie
Well-Known Member
Had one of these for about seven years, some lessons learned:
Keep the jets absolutely squeaky clean. Put an inline filter between the fuel pump and the carb, (if the integral tank model uses a pump). Use ethanol-free petrol if you can find it (I can't), or use an additive such as Millers to reduce the corrosion. If the bottom of the motor leg is partially immersed while moored up, put an extra anode right at the bottom of the "fin" to protect the gearbox casting. Check the plastic gearchange lever regularly- prone to breakage.
Good luck with it! S.
woozy-UK
Well-Known Member
good tips, many thanks
Beyondhelp
Well-Known Member
VERY GOOD idea in fitting a fuel filter. I had trouble with mine for that reason. Also drain the carb bowl if its sat for a while. But they are nice engines. (mine is a 4hp with a 6hp carb upgrade)
woozy-UK
Well-Known Member
ok yesterday i replaced the lifting bracket with a new one as the bolts and a spring had fallen off the original fairly new one.
also got the new Tohatsu on.
unfortunately the tide went out while myself and others were undoing the bolts on the old one from the transom. luckily my boats keel sunk into the soft area and was supported by the mud.i shovelled away the mud around the new rudder. had to go back at 9pm when the tide came back in.
also i am disappointed already with a few things/issues on the Tohatsu from what i saw.
unlike the original listing it doesnt have an internal fuel tank. only the extra long shaft model seems to. mine is the standard long shaft which came with a fuel tank and hose.
(the seller changed the listing when i told him this)
the engines front gear shift is likely to get caught on the top of my transom when tilted. are side levers available?
the engine will not pivot unless the flimsy looking gear shift is in forward... W T F !!!!!!!!!!!!?
the engine swivel even though i tightened the rear steering screw. i want to have decent steering lock on it as i use the rudder to steer, very very annoying
the outboards front lifting handle gets in the way of the lifting bracket handle
the charging/light power terminals are just two wires sticking out from the cowl not actual plug/socket like the honda supports.
i really really need solutions to the above please. mainly the stupid steering lock for now as the main thing for me.
thanks all
pics of my boat stuck...
also got the new Tohatsu on.
unfortunately the tide went out while myself and others were undoing the bolts on the old one from the transom. luckily my boats keel sunk into the soft area and was supported by the mud.i shovelled away the mud around the new rudder. had to go back at 9pm when the tide came back in.
also i am disappointed already with a few things/issues on the Tohatsu from what i saw.
unlike the original listing it doesnt have an internal fuel tank. only the extra long shaft model seems to. mine is the standard long shaft which came with a fuel tank and hose.
(the seller changed the listing when i told him this)
the engines front gear shift is likely to get caught on the top of my transom when tilted. are side levers available?
the engine will not pivot unless the flimsy looking gear shift is in forward... W T F !!!!!!!!!!!!?
the engine swivel even though i tightened the rear steering screw. i want to have decent steering lock on it as i use the rudder to steer, very very annoying
the outboards front lifting handle gets in the way of the lifting bracket handle
the charging/light power terminals are just two wires sticking out from the cowl not actual plug/socket like the honda supports.
i really really need solutions to the above please. mainly the stupid steering lock for now as the main thing for me.
thanks all
pics of my boat stuck...
Lakesailor
Well-Known Member
You just need to get used to the new motor.
Don't have your mounting bracket lifted so high. Then the motor will tilt. This will also prevent the problem you seem to be having with the handle fouling the lifting bracket lever. If all else fails make a new mounting pad from thick ply to raise the motor a couple of inches higher, as long as it allows the leg to be deep enough when lowered.
The interlock stops you tilting the motor. If it's in reverse it needs to be locked on to the pin in the bracket. It would kickup when you opened the throttle. If it was in neutral when you have it tilted you could start the motor when it is not locked down.
Various motors have different combinations of internal/external tanks. It's a shame the supplier got it wrong. However, a remote tank is better really as you don't have to refill hanging over the stern.
The swivel friction screw has never been intended to lock the motor in position. I always found it to be good enough to prevent the motor swinging though.I had planned to fit a "cup" to the transom for the tiller handle to sit in to prevent the motor turning, but it never was needed.
It may turn slightly when you are starting the motor. However 4 strokes don't need the "yank" on the starter cord that 2 strokes need. A long, steady pull gets them going.
I've had three of the various Mariner/Tohatsu 4/5/6HP motors and have also had a Yamaha 4HP (good) and endured a Honda 5HP (bad). I know which I prefer
Don't have your mounting bracket lifted so high. Then the motor will tilt. This will also prevent the problem you seem to be having with the handle fouling the lifting bracket lever. If all else fails make a new mounting pad from thick ply to raise the motor a couple of inches higher, as long as it allows the leg to be deep enough when lowered.
The interlock stops you tilting the motor. If it's in reverse it needs to be locked on to the pin in the bracket. It would kickup when you opened the throttle. If it was in neutral when you have it tilted you could start the motor when it is not locked down.
Various motors have different combinations of internal/external tanks. It's a shame the supplier got it wrong. However, a remote tank is better really as you don't have to refill hanging over the stern.
The swivel friction screw has never been intended to lock the motor in position. I always found it to be good enough to prevent the motor swinging though.I had planned to fit a "cup" to the transom for the tiller handle to sit in to prevent the motor turning, but it never was needed.
It may turn slightly when you are starting the motor. However 4 strokes don't need the "yank" on the starter cord that 2 strokes need. A long, steady pull gets them going.
I've had three of the various Mariner/Tohatsu 4/5/6HP motors and have also had a Yamaha 4HP (good) and endured a Honda 5HP (bad). I know which I prefer
ronsurf
Well-Known Member
I have a Yamaha 4HP and I've never used the internal tank. Strange decision by Tohatsu though. I would have assumed any outboard enginbe would have an internal tank.
surekandoo
Well-Known Member
one thing I would fit is single lever remote control via morse cables. Quite expensive but improves close quarter boat handling immeasurably. Did this on my previous boat, a limbo 6.6. with Suzuki 5hp.
halyardmonkey.
Well-Known Member
Don't bother with an engine. That intro 22 can sail faster than it can motor. Buy new sails and sail on and off the moorings.....
woozy-UK
Well-Known Member
hello Michael lol
halyardmonkey.
Well-Known Member
How did you guess John? It was easy for me. I did enjoy opening the box on your new engine down the club. Just remember, my boat has 3.5 two stroke and it pushes along quite nicely... Better still under sail!!!!
woozy-UK
Well-Known Member
your boat is a lot lot lighter than mine
Lakesailor
Well-Known Member
They do all the options. it depends on the particular model.