Sicily and Tunisia ports

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mclyde

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We will be drifting down the west coast of Italy this year and spending some time sailing around Sicily before crossing over to Tunisia where we will leave Alfresco for winter.
After our (expensive) experience with marinas in southern France and northern Italy last year, we're hoping for more relaxed (cheaper) berthing. Grateful for any views of where to go in Sicily and Tunisia where we can stay for a week or so for no or modest cost.
 
Malcolm,

Can't reccomend Sirracuse, Sicily enough. There is a Marina there that charges quite a lot, however you can anchor for free in a huge natural harbour/bay with loads of room and or you can come onto the town key stern to, again for nowt. Great town with a lovely old cty next to the harbour.

Coming further south, there is a small marina at Merzememi, quite expensive though, around 40 euro a night last year. 10 mins walk into a small ex tuna fishing village, excellent grub in the restaraunts in the square. Further south still and the last jumping off point for Malta - Tunisia, is Poto Palo, just a basic anchorage but safe in all but strong southerly winds. Malta is then definitely worth a visit, cheapish, historic, and a good stopover en route for Tunisia. Once in Tunisia you have decent cheap marinas with generally good facilities at Monastir, El Kantoui and Jasmine Hammermet. Sidi Bou Said also though a bit more expensive. I think all in all you will experience less hassle and less expense the further south you go.

Have a great trip.
 
I'd second Sealord's comments about Siracusa - as a 1st class anchorage, and one of the most interesting cities in Italy.

Unfortunately marinas around Sicily are comparable with Italian mainland pricewise.

You could try Gela, Porto Refugio; Marsala; Mazzara del Vallo.

Tying up to the Grande Quay in Siracusa is somewhat fraught.

PortoPalo and Marsamemi are fairly dodgy too.

I'd strongly recommend Malta as an an overwintering place, though I can't comment on Tunisia as I'll be exploring it this spring.
 
I wish to second Siracusa but also mention Tropia near Stromboli and Volcana [sic]. Good anchorages at the latter.

Tropia town is worth a visit in my opinion and the marina, though not cheap is reasonable, clean and very friendly.

All the Marinas near Naples are exorbitant. EG. 2006 Capri 150 Es for a Saturday night for a 30 footer.

I berthed free in Agropoli, Scillia and Regio di Calabria and also all the harbours used in the instep of Italy.
 
Definitely second Vulcano, probably the high point of our Italian cruise. With anchorages on both the east and west sides and only about 15 minutes apart, most winds can be catered for. The town is interesting and good fun and walking up the active volcano is superb.
 
How are the islands north of Naples? Are they worth a charter week with family?

Volcano and Lipari are great, and Salina is a lovely place. The glowing volcano at night is about one of the best sights to be head in the Med, imho.
 
I have anchored at Stromboli but only round the other side from the River of Fire. If you go round to watch and feel the volcano perform beware of unmarked rocks. In the dark one was nearly hit by me concentrating on photos etc.

There is very little anchoring space and only suitable for settled weather. I was anchoring in steeply shelving ash and had little confidence.
 
Thanks Charles...we're certainly "island hopping" from Fiunicino south....Ponza, Ishia, Capri then Amalfi coast.
Procida looked more interesting than Ischia and we're planning for my 83 yr old mother to join us from England for a few days. Therefore would like to be tied up in a cute port...stern to quay. Is Procida like this?? p.s. "Alfresco" is 54ft
 
Thanks Sealord....this has confirmed our view that we'll go "clockwise" around Sicily...down East coast then across to Malta then onto Tunisia. "Alfresco" is 54ft...does that change any of your comments/recommendations? Have you tried Riposto on East Sicily?
 
Charles...not sure in what way you found Porto Palo and Marsememi dodgy....and Quay at Syracuse? Is it just exposed to wash? We have to winter out of EU ('cos I'm Australian and not paid VAT/IVA) so Tunisia is target for this year's winter...can't be Malta. Would be very interested in your reactions to Tunisia after your Spring visit.
 
A 54-foot boat would be rather restricted in Marzamemi and if there is a swell from NE it is almost impossible to get out. Nice atmosphere, though, especially around the old Tonnara area.

I don't see the problem with Porto Palo, except that it is a very basic fishing village.

The problem with the public quay at Siracusa is that there is a submerged ledge all alonng the quay. You have to drop your anchor as far from the quay as possible, lot of scope, the weight of which will help to keep your rudder clear off of this ledge. If wind pipes up from the SW it can become very hairy; I have seen that quay empty itself of boats in less than ten minutes! No one that I know would leave his boat unattended down there. Much better to anchor on the other side and use your tender to go ashore.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Have you tried Riposto on East Sicily?

[/ QUOTE ]

Riposto itself is a bit of a dump, but the marina is excellent... we got ripped off by the on site tour organiser... 25 euros for a 5 minute taxi ride to the station.

i used Riposto for fuel and water, and a bit of R & R, but anchored off Taormina for weeks on end and had a lovely time.
 
Porto Palo et al

Porto Palo has minimal decent holding - the W part is limestone with no sand and where there is any holding is occupied by local moorings. The anchorage is wide open to the E and it's a 3km walk to the village.

Siracusa, Grande Quay - every afternoon a brisk breeze off the sea and a resultant chop, the quayside has a 300mm projection just below sea level.
OK for superyachts with twin anchors out, but anything below 60' is advised to anchor off ESPECIALLY in a blow.

There are a couple of NZ boats and 3 Oz in Msida - as far as I know none have paid VAT - besides you only need to get out of EU for a few months.

Maltese Customs are fairly relaxed.

I've had very good reports about Tunisia - so wouldn't like you to be put off.
 
Ponza town used to be good but is extremely popular to the extent as being very horrible in 2006. [Compared with 1999] Cala di Luna [sic] on the other side of the island is a lovely anchorage but in 2006 the tunnel to town was closed.

Procida marina was an expensive building site [2006] with facilities to match. You might be OK on the quay, I didn't try. but I don't fancy your chances for more than one night. We wanted to leave our boat to go into Naples etc. so used the marina.

Don't use Ischia either. Just pirates in the harbour. Anchor by the castle.

In fact, in my opinion, all the ports around Naples are best avoided except Amalfi, if you don't mind a bit of swell.
 
Thanks for your comments, Puff. Do people sometimes come into Syracuse quay bow first because of shelf. This can work if there is some water over the shelf and anchor has set well off stern?
 
Disappointing comments on the islands scarlett...but that's what this forum is for....best to be prepared. We'll by in Ponza/Procida/Ischia in June...is that early enough to be relatively pleasant/uncrowded?
 
You should be luckier in June but I am not sure. The crowding in Ponza was so bad in July 2006 as to be unbelievable. Police moving all boats rafted off the Town Quay at 0700 and maybe two hundred boats anchored off the town some within a few feet of their neighbour. Plenty of room at the Cala De Luna [CdL]and Parmarola anchorages.

In 1999 and 2000 I stayed at Ponza for weeks in June and September sometimes anchored off the town. No problem but for the high speed ribs going through the anchorage undetered. Much preferred CdL.

You could try Ventotene outer harbour, free but not much there. I recall a ferry calling in July.
 
Personally I have never seen anyone do that but it can be done. It would depend on how high your bows are, I guess. Still, unless you are in a position to leave someone on board at all time, I would prefer to anchor in the bay on the other side (near the mussel farms). You could always move your boat to the quay later if, after seeing for yourself, you decide that it would be safe to do so. Incidentally, the afternoon 'breeze' at Syracuse is not an 'if'; it is regular as clockwork.

All being said, the old Siracusa (Ortigia) lies right behind the public quay on a little hill and should not be missed. Avoid the restaurants that are 'obviously' for the tourist trade. There are plenty of others that offer basically the same fare, albeit slightly smaller portions, at a fraction of the cost. I always try to find places where the locals go.

The 'Porto di Siracusa' has a website that gives a lot of information, including a chartlet.

Hope you enjoy your stay. I always do.
 
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