Shower sump float switch knackered - replace with Water Witch?

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As the title says really, the float switch for my Johnson L650 has packed up. Not much of an issue as it clips on the side of the pump so hopefully I can just replace.

When searching, I came across 'Water Witch' - Has anyone used one? Good? Bad? https://www.waterwitchinc.com/new/SiteElements/Pages/SecondaryPages/Products/BilgeSwitches.html
The model 257 is 55 euro in Ireland which doesn't seem too bad.

Or should I replace like for like? I'm having trouble finding the exact replacement (see pics)
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I tried to find one of these last year and didnt have any joy with usual UK/Irish suppliers. Incidentally I replaced it with a water witch along with the 4 other float switches.
 
Without doubt the best job I did on my current boat was to replace the Shower Sump box float switch with a Water Witch. Three years now and zero problem.

The conventional float switches really do p$$55 me off because they always seem to fail so quickly these days.

Two years ago I replaced the bilge switches with Water Witch as well.

Th greatest feature for putting one in the shower sump is that they run the pump for several seconds after the water (gunk) level falls, thereby enabling the pump to remove more of the dirty water with every on off cycle.

Graham
 
I am on my second Water Which,first one knackered by my own mistake.Second one is over 5 years old.
I have an open boat so it gets a lot of use.The only fault I can find is that mine is in the bilge,so get the odd bit of oil on it which it does'nt like.Simply wipe it with a bit of thinners a good as new.
Great bit of kit
 
I put a solid state one in to replace the tradition float on my aft bilge pump. It failed. And there isn't a way of testing them without filling the bilges. Which I did when the fresh water filler pipe leaked, and I didn't realise I had no auto pump. Nothing like the reassurance of lifting the float switch and hearing the whirr. Ok for a shower sump but never again on my bilge pumps.
 
Elessar said:
I put a solid state one in to replace the tradition float on my aft bilge pump. It failed. And there isn't a way of testing them without filling the bilges. Which I did when the fresh water filler pipe leaked, and I didn't realise I had no auto pump. Nothing like the reassurance of lifting the float switch and hearing the whirr. Ok for a shower sump but never again on my bilge pumps.
Click to expand...

Re. bilge - yes I agree. I sometimes test my bilge pump by lifting the float and it's good to know it works.

With the Whale solid state, you can infact test it by pressing your fingers on the circles.... I just hope it doesn't fail as it's a pain in the backside having to open up the shower sump.
 
Elessar said:
I put a solid state one in to replace the tradition float on my aft bilge pump. It failed. And there isn't a way of testing them without filling the bilges. Which I did when the fresh water filler pipe leaked, and I didn't realise I had no auto pump. Nothing like the reassurance of lifting the float switch and hearing the whirr. Ok for a shower sump but never again on my bilge pumps.
Click to expand...

FYI The Water Witch can be tested easily by holding a wet piece of kitchen towel over the sensor for 10 seconds, works for me every time.

Graham
 
alt said:
Yes i'm actually going to go with the Whale unit as it doesn't require a (-) supply, whereas the Water Witch does
Click to expand...
Get the one with the delayed off time, it's what Whale fit to their grey water tanks and clears more water, also good for bilge pumps, I have fitted a number to heavy use liveaboards and to date have had zero problems. Test by placing two fingers on the dots provided for the purpose.
 
alt said:
Yes i'm actually going to go with the Whale unit as it doesn't require a (-) supply, whereas the Water Witch does
Click to expand...
I'm slow to this thread. Don't buy that one. They're rubbish imho. I think Ellesar is referring to the same item. I have one of these on my aft shower sump on both this and my last boat. I've had a new one every 6 months or so due to the things just failing. On my current boat, 14 months old, I'm on my third. Total waste of money imho

In my book you need water witch or http://www.asap-supplies.com/search/float+switch/jabsco-rule-hydro-air-bilge-switch-504754 (it comes in 12v version too). You must surely have a -ve nearby, for the bilge pump motor
 
I had the shi11ty tuperware box with a float switch that would either run when there was no water in it or would not run due to one only " short and curly" or a bit of soap scum.

I got fed up of hand pumping the bilges or drying the cabin floor, opening cleaning and refitting it when it would not pump, and attending to it three times a season.

Assuming you know when you are "going to have a shower" and you "know when you have finished" get a Whale gulper and bin the box, float switch etc. When its on it sounds like a demented frog, but it pumps curlies, soap etc perfectly .

I fitted a gulper two years ago with a manual off/on switch no attention, no overflows and no blockages.

Seemples!
 
jfm said:
I'm slow to this thread. Don't buy that one. They're rubbish imho. I think Ellesar is referring to the same item. I have one of these on my aft shower sump on both this and my last boat. I've had a new one every 6 months or so due to the things just failing. On my current boat, 14 months old, I'm on my third. Total waste of money imho

In my book you need water witch or http://www.asap-supplies.com/search/float+switch/jabsco-rule-hydro-air-bilge-switch-504754 (it comes in 12v version too). You must surely have a -ve nearby, for the bilge pump motor
Click to expand...
Well, bugger. I've it fitted now. Not to worry. If it fails, i'll just scrap it and go with the below recommendation. Cheers

Bandit said:
I had the shi11ty tuperware box with a float switch that would either run when there was no water in it or would not run due to one only " short and curly" or a bit of soap scum.

I got fed up of hand pumping the bilges or drying the cabin floor, opening cleaning and refitting it when it would not pump, and attending to it three times a season.

Assuming you know when you are "going to have a shower" and you "know when you have finished" get a Whale gulper and bin the box, float switch etc. When its on it sounds like a demented frog, but it pumps curlies, soap etc perfectly .

I fitted a gulper two years ago with a manual off/on switch no attention, no overflows and no blockages.

Seemples!
Click to expand...
 
jfm said:
I'm slow to this thread. Don't buy that one. They're rubbish imho. I think Ellesar is referring to the same item. I have one of these on my aft shower sump on both this and my last boat. I've had a new one every 6 months or so due to the things just failing. On my current boat, 14 months old, I'm on my third. Total waste of money imho

In my book you need water witch or http://www.asap-supplies.com/search/float+switch/jabsco-rule-hydro-air-bilge-switch-504754 (it comes in 12v version too). You must surely have a -ve nearby, for the bilge pump motor
Click to expand...

My aircon condenser also drains into my shower sump (which is a Rule tupperware box, like others). Is this hydro air switch suitable for leaving powered up for long periods of time (when the aircon is in dehum mode during the winter, for example)?
 
jimmy_the_builder said:
My aircon condenser also drains into my shower sump (which is a Rule tupperware box, like others). Is this hydro air switch suitable for leaving powered up for long periods of time (when the aircon is in dehum mode during the winter, for example)?
Click to expand...

Never thought about that but I'd think not, as a matter of guesswork only. I'd think that the very slow rise in water level in the Tupperware box would be so slow that the air which is meant to be compressed in the pipe could dissolve into the rising water, or leak out molecule by molecule, thus depressurising the thing, thus causing the switch not to turn on. Water Witch would be better imho. Water witches do draw a few milliamps but if you're on shorepower that doesn't matter.

Another ok solution is to wire 2 ordinary float switches in parallel so if one fails the other saves the day. Nicely sub-£10 solution too. Sometimes there isn't enough room in the Tupperware box for this though
 
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