William_H
Well-Known Member
First thing for OP to determine is actual clearance of top of mast to bridge under various conditions. It is almost impossible to determine clearance from in the boat. You need someone with camera off to side. You may find that you are worried unnecessarily. If then you are still worried then as said 10cms is not much difference. Especially as already said you possibly have wind pointer VHF antenna etc extending the mast height. If you have those things on top then keep going under the bridge. You may bend the antenna and destroy the wind pointer but then you will know for sure. How about getting up mast and attaching a fishing rod say 1 metre long to see if it strikes the bridge.
Now assuming you have no protrusions on top. (I have a home made wind pointer and VHF antenna on stern rail) if it has a fractional rig ie forestay to mast not at top but part way down then it may be very easy to cut off the top of the mast. (depending on fittings on top iof mast fro halyard sheave abckstqay etc.) You shorten the main sail luff by cutting top off and refitting head board. You might need a batten in the top to give that very modern flat top look. If you have a back stay you may need to have a crane on mast top. ie a horizontal bar thqat extens aft from top[ of mast to carry back stay aft away from the sail leach. (and shorten back stay.)
Now if it is a mast head rig. It may be easier as you suggest cutting off the bottom of the mast. This may require you to move the gooseneck attachment up higher on the mast to give head clearance and thus also may need to cut down the sail luff from either top or bottom. You will ned to shorten fore stay and side stays. If they are swaged get the bottom swage replaced as in my experience this is most likely point of stay failure with age. So new termination at the bottom may give stay more life.
One thing for sure you will not notice any performance loss but may find you are happier in stronger winds.
You may just be tormented by one bridge. However if you want to cruise further afield and tackle more lower bridges you should think about self mast lowering.
Here on the Swan River this is all the go with 80ft and more masts lowered to traverse under bridges. You need a deck mounted hinge or if you have a keel stepped mast there are ways to fit a hinge to the mast a bit above the deck.
As a fred drift here at Fremantle 100 years ago a bridge was built across the river. It was quite high in the middle to allow for sailing barges to carry freight up river to Perth.
One problem was they put tram lines on the bridge but trams had trouble getting up the steep slope. In time all commercial boating had engines so a new bridge was built but a lot lower (about 22 ft clearance). Now we have 3 bridges all about the same clearance and who cares about pleasure sailing boats. It is a real b***. ol'will
Now assuming you have no protrusions on top. (I have a home made wind pointer and VHF antenna on stern rail) if it has a fractional rig ie forestay to mast not at top but part way down then it may be very easy to cut off the top of the mast. (depending on fittings on top iof mast fro halyard sheave abckstqay etc.) You shorten the main sail luff by cutting top off and refitting head board. You might need a batten in the top to give that very modern flat top look. If you have a back stay you may need to have a crane on mast top. ie a horizontal bar thqat extens aft from top[ of mast to carry back stay aft away from the sail leach. (and shorten back stay.)
Now if it is a mast head rig. It may be easier as you suggest cutting off the bottom of the mast. This may require you to move the gooseneck attachment up higher on the mast to give head clearance and thus also may need to cut down the sail luff from either top or bottom. You will ned to shorten fore stay and side stays. If they are swaged get the bottom swage replaced as in my experience this is most likely point of stay failure with age. So new termination at the bottom may give stay more life.
One thing for sure you will not notice any performance loss but may find you are happier in stronger winds.
You may just be tormented by one bridge. However if you want to cruise further afield and tackle more lower bridges you should think about self mast lowering.
Here on the Swan River this is all the go with 80ft and more masts lowered to traverse under bridges. You need a deck mounted hinge or if you have a keel stepped mast there are ways to fit a hinge to the mast a bit above the deck.
As a fred drift here at Fremantle 100 years ago a bridge was built across the river. It was quite high in the middle to allow for sailing barges to carry freight up river to Perth.
One problem was they put tram lines on the bridge but trams had trouble getting up the steep slope. In time all commercial boating had engines so a new bridge was built but a lot lower (about 22 ft clearance). Now we have 3 bridges all about the same clearance and who cares about pleasure sailing boats. It is a real b***. ol'will
