Shore Power Inlet

laika

laika

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My shore power inlet has always been a b!%ch to get the cable connector in and out of (tried several different connectors). Requires a fair bit of force and I'm the only crewmember who can do it, so I'm going to replace it.

Any recommendations for decent quality inlets? The ones in the chandlers seem nasty and flimsy. I seem to recall that you can get some which work fine with standard 3 pin 16 amp cables, but when paired with a special matching connector gives an IP68 seal. However I've just had blank stares when I've asked around about this.
 
To get IP67 or IP68 on a standard blue 16A connector, they need a screw ring. Most don't bother, but mount it so water sheds away.

Depending on your base, one of these may work, perhaps with a little modification:

http://cpc.farnell.com/CN06706
http://cpc.farnell.com/PL08949
http://cpc.farnell.com/PL08990

Same as from a chandler, but a fraction of the price.

If you need a new lead, these are good:
http://cpc.farnell.com/PL11216

If you just need a new coupler, I like these transparent ones, so you can see the wires are OK:
http://cpc.farnell.com/CN06703
I've put a neon in mine to tell me the power is working.
 
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I use the Hubbell stainless ones on all except canal craft shorepower installs, I've tried all sorts and always gone back to them, simple to fit, stylish, robust and waterproof both in use with the Hubbell plug and shroud and when not being used with the cap screwd down.
 
nigelmercier said:
To get IP67 or IP68 on a standard blue 16A connector, they need a screw ring. Most don't bother, but mount it so water sheds away.
Click to expand...

Yes: the nice cable connector I have has a ring. And I think it might have been IP67, not 68. It's a flush mount socket that I'm after. Current one is one of those with a big square cover flap.

nigelmercier said:
If you just need a new coupler, I like these transparent ones, so you can see the wires are OK:
http://cpc.farnell.com/CN06703
I've put a neon in mine to tell me the power is working.
Click to expand...

Davidwf's ratio suggestion also has an LED. Top idea: Will save me darting below to check things are turned on before checking the breaker on shore. Any more suggestion for quality flush mount inlets (LED optional) with the little sealing rings (doubtless unnecessary but..) gratefully received
 
David2452 said:
I use the Hubbell stainless ones on all except canal craft shorepower installs
Click to expand...

Don't these have a non-standard connector? I think my concern would be things like availability of connectors if mine got fried somehow somewhere remote and situations where a fussy boatyard wanted to insist on using their shore power cable (though doubtless there's be no problem about just having an adaptor)
 
nigelmercier said:
They are fairly standard, but nasty. When I'm drawing 16A I want a good solid bit of brass making the contacts.
Click to expand...

They are certainly anything but nasty, plenty robust enough, and 16a is begger all current anway. As I said I have fitted loads and never had a complaint. The price is sometimes an issue but that's not quality related just cost objection.
 
laika said:
Don't these have a non-standard connector? I think my concern would be things like availability of connectors if mine got fried somehow somewhere remote and situations where a fussy boatyard wanted to insist on using their shore power cable (though doubtless there's be no problem about just having an adaptor)
Click to expand...

Yes ITYWF that you would need the matching Hubbel connector on the shorepower lead


HBL332SSX.jpg


hbl63cm64.jpg


Also you will probably want the rubber cover for the lead end connector

hbl77cm15.jpg
 
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After tripping over cables laid along the deck and yanking the plug (female) out of its socket (male) on friends' boats, my solution is to keep the connector inboard. The cable exit is through the transom via a 2 1/2" BSP union.
(I couldn't find a 2 1/4" one which would have been better.) In actual fact, the inboard end doesn't need a connector.

The cable exits through a gland with substantial stress relief and the whole lot is pulled back inboard when disconnected. the transom outlet (which is high) is then sealed from inboard with a blind plug.

This arrangement also means that any excess cable length remains inboard rather than spread around the deck or dangling in the water.
 
We had to remove them as well due to a safety issue, at the time there was no plastic sleeve inside the connector and no earth bond to the shell which meant if the live became detached inside the socket and touched the shell the whole lot went live! Yes it did happen and I was the poor sod that got the shock.
I will add that this was 30 years ago and the insides may have been redesigned since then but the connector looks exactly the same.
 
Loddon said:
We had to remove [Hubbell connectors] as well due to a safety issue, at the time there was no plastic sleeve inside the connector...
Click to expand...

Even with a sleeve, a metal mains connector is a bad idea. We even had to replace the plastic ones, as the pins could bend and touch each-other, so when you plugged in the case was live, or snap off - not good for an earth pin.

It's almost as if they went out of their way to design something that was unsafe.
 
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