Shopping for a boom... what are the options?

Kelpie

Kelpie

Well-Known Member
Joined
15 May 2005
Messages
7,766
Location
Afloat
Visit site
From a cursory bit of googling it seems that my options for a new boom are Selden and, um, Selden. Nothing against this company, I have seen and used their spars before and they seem robust and well designed, just I do want to shop around and check out the competition.

If Selden is the only option, does it matter where I buy from?

Cheers,

Rob
 
Is the boom for your Wayfarer, or one of the other boats mentioned in your profile. If the former the Wayfarer Association have a 'for sale' section on their website,..... and the dreaded Ebay.
Yes, Selden took over Proctors and, I believe, Kemp Masts. If they are still in business there is a company of Needlespars at Warsash, if class rules will allow the change;and Z spars may still be in existence.

I made a replacement boom from a broken mast section for my original Wayfarer and was able to use the end fittings from the old corroded one, together with the pivoting s/stl kicking-strap vang. It lasted me for the 7 years I kept the boat.

ianat182
 
The boom is for my Albin Vega, to replace a tired original Proctor one.

My Wayfarer actually has a much better boom design than the Vega- a more modern square section with a track underneath allowing me to easily add fittings using sliders. I've even added a proper slab-reefing system with pulleys let into the top surface of the boom.

The old round-section one on the Vega looks antiquated in comparison, and the slab reefing system just uses bullseyes, not pulleys, so the friction is enormous. That's the main reason I want to replace the boom- the other reason being a friend of mine with an identical boat broke his original boom a few years ago, and ruined his mainsail in the process!
 
To solve the reefing line problem you could use the Barton system of turning blocks on tracks - lot cheaper than a new boom. Not sure that the boom failing is an issue - any particular reason (apart from knowing another boom broke) for thinking that? Is it a known weakness of the design? or are there fittings you think might fail?
 
Robwhelton said:
The boom is for my Albin Vega, to replace a tired original Proctor one.

My Wayfarer actually has a much better boom design than the Vega- a more modern square section with a track underneath allowing me to easily add fittings using sliders. I've even added a proper slab-reefing system with pulleys let into the top surface of the boom.

The old round-section one on the Vega looks antiquated in comparison, and the slab reefing system just uses bullseyes, not pulleys, so the friction is enormous. That's the main reason I want to replace the boom- the other reason being a friend of mine with an identical boat broke his original boom a few years ago, and ruined his mainsail in the process!
Click to expand...
Let me know how you get on please Rob - Fairwinds' boom has seen better days as well.

- W
 
Some years ago I bought a boom kit from Z-spars. It was easy to put together and I could tailor it to my exact requirements. It was a sensible price for a piece of 'marine' equipment too.
 
I too would recommend you contact Z-Spars. Got a boom kit from them a few years ago and puuting it together was simple and quick. Easy to tailor it to your own requirements. I think you will find them much cheaper (less expensive) than Selden.
 
I have found Sailspar extremely helpful; they were willing to fit ball bearing reefing blocks if I supplied them, I'd say well worth a thought.

I found Selden spectactularly disappointing, they wanted the stress and load figures for every wire before even thinking of giving me a quote; I had naively supposed they were the riggers and I was the customer, hadn't realised I had to do their design work for them then pay them to use it !
 
Last edited:
Tranona said:
To solve the reefing line problem you could use the Barton system of turning blocks on tracks - lot cheaper than a new boom. Not sure that the boom failing is an issue - any particular reason (apart from knowing another boom broke) for thinking that? Is it a known weakness of the design? or are there fittings you think might fail?
Click to expand...

I think it would be pretty awkward trying to fit tracks onto the side of a cylindrical boom. The existing fittings are either made to fit the curve, or are mounted on a plate which is itself rivetted on to create a flat surface. Either way, rather a lot of work.

I have heard of a few Vegas losing booms... in each case the original spar, and the break being at the kicker attachment point. On my boom, the kicker eye is amazingly flimsy, just a little saddle clamp really. I would trust my Wayfarer boom to stand up to much stronger forces than the Vega's one!
 
bryantee said:
they also do kits for booms and masts. cuts the price .important when you are exporting
and have to pay duty at the receiving end. their instruction sheets make it virtually foolproof
providing you can get your hands on a good lazy tongs pop riveter.
Click to expand...

I bought a mast (48" long) kit from Sailspar. They could not have been more helpful.
Their price was well below anyone else. The section used was a modern Sparcraft extrusion.

For the boom I bought a 'seconds' from ZSpars there was a slight scratch on it and I has to cut it down to length then rivet the fittings on.

Both Sailspar and ZSpars supplied all the bit's to do the task even the rivets. in fact Sailspar even supplied self adhesive pads to isolate stainless parts from the aluminium.

The mast prices from other suppliers were up to four times more expensive then direct from either ZSpars or Sailspar and one of the quotes was from someone using a ZSpar extrusion.

Carrage charges quoted by Zspars was quite low.

I would not hesitate in using either of those suppliers.

IAIN
 
Usually your sail maker will have a good idea of which company they would use. If not, enquire into a few sail makers to find out prices and their recommendations
 
Well Z-Spars have come back with a good set of quotes- just need to see how the gooseneck attachment will work out now.
 
Coaster said:
If the mast was only 4' long, how big was the boat? Were you crossing the Atlantic in a bath tub? Do tell.
Click to expand...

It would have been much easier for me to transport it from the south of England to past Inverness if it had been four feet and not the 50 feet plus before I cut it down to length.

The delivery quote I had been given was about £700.

I must put the lights on the next time I post on the forum so that I can see the keyboard.

Iain
 
Boom failure

The stress ona boom is at the mainsheet attachment and the boom vang attachment.
The mainsheet attachment can be stressed much more if the sheet attaches half way along the boom compared to end of boom attachment. if you have a wide traveller you probably don't need so much boom vang load. The mainsheet will do much of the work for you. Indeed I am doubtful of boom vang efficacy considering that half oif the forcee typically is wasted trying to pull the boom into the mast due to angle of pull.
Anyway some modern methods of sheet and vang attachment can be very strong and make no holes in the boom.Assuming you have a loose footed main sail. ie no bolt rope. I mean using a webbing loop to attach vang and mainsheet. For the vang you take the webbing around the boom one full turn then lead the ends down to loops or SS rings to enable tackle to be shackled on. For the vang you will need a rivet or screw to stop the webbing sliding forward.

For the clew attachment of the mainsail you can use double sided velcro (hook on one side pile on the other) This can be incredibly strong with several wraps. The loop of fabric will slide along the boom and the outhaul rope or wire pulls from the end of the boom. I have seen this on a 30ft high performance boat no worries.

For the reefing I would if I were starting again fit turning block box into the top of the boom or just off centre and use internal reefing lines. It is not difficult to determine the best location for reefing block and it doesn't change for any given mainsail. With this arrangement you can have a tubular boom (or old mast section) that is totally smooth on sides and bottom so much safer if it hits anyone's head.

One of my projects is to replace my boom using all of the above. I use the velcro and the webbing for vang already. Webbing can be sewn on a domestic machine with huge strength or you can use whipping twine sewn in or even bolts to make the loops. Have a look around at other boats. you don't have to use old methods for a new boom. good luck olewill
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top