Shaft Seals

Stemar

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Jissel's out of the water and I've got the old stuffing gland off. The shaft looks more or less OK, but it's not easy to see - except where things have been rubbing, there's a varnish-like deposit on it, so the first question is how to clean it in situ. Is cream cleaner likely to be any good, or will I need something a bit stronger? The important thing is to avoid scratching the shaft as I'd like to use a lip seal. Getting the shaft out to clean and check it looks to be an engine out job as, even with the Cutless bearing removed from the outboard end, the shaft still fouls the skeg, so that ain't going to happen!

Next is the choice of seal. I'd like to use the Orbitrade or Radice, but the 25mm shaft of both comes in 39 and 42mm tube sizes, My tube is about 35mm, possibly 1 3/8", as the boat's 50 years old. Would building up a 2mm thickness of self-amalgamating tape work?

The simpler, but more expensive option would be to use a Deep Sea seal, but it's around three times the price, and there's a lot of other things to spend my money on! It does have the advantage that it's a face seal, so wear or minor scratches on the shaft would be less of an issue. OTOH, I've heard some bad things about them, so am a little dubious.

Any useful information, suggestions, etc gratefully received
 
My PSS seal came in a size that did not fit my stern tube as standard. They supply tubular rubber packing pieces to increase the diameter of the tube, in my case by about 4 mm. Mine has been perfectly satisfactory with this fitted for the past 10 years or so.
 
My PSS seal came in a size that did not fit my stern tube as standard. They supply tubular rubber packing pieces to increase the diameter of the tube, in my case by about 4 mm. Mine has been perfectly satisfactory with this fitted for the past 10 years or so.

I replaced mine earlier this year and also bought from Lakeside Eng who were very good
My PS seal was 24 years old!!!!!
 
Try loo cleaner on the shaft. Seems to be safe on rubber.

I used to be able to get Hydrochloric acid from a professional cleaner supplier but they stopped selling it to the public when stories of people using it as a weapon were circulating. Great way of cleaning the prop as well.

Loo cleaner has a thickener so should stay on the shaft for longer even if it's not as strong.
 
When I put a Volvo seal on my old Sadler I had to use a 2.5cm seal for the 1" shaft, which turned out OK, but that was probably about as much mismatch as you could do.
 
I had a 2mm mismatch on the tube size. My totally successful fix was to knock up a thinwall alloy sleeve from a piece of scaffold tube. This was epoxied onto the tube and is still there after 11 years. The Volvo seal has not leaked in this time either.

A lathe was required, or get someone with one to make the sleeve.

Worked for me!
 
I had a 2mm mismatch on the tube size. My totally successful fix was to knock up a thinwall alloy sleeve from a piece of scaffold tube. This was epoxied onto the tube and is still there after 11 years. The Volvo seal has not leaked in this time either.

A lathe was required, or get someone with one to make the sleeve.

Worked for me!

You can also get ready made sleeves for shaft repair from decent bearing suppliers, e.g. https://www.bearingboys.co.uk/Speedi-Sleeves-Shaft-Repair-3289-c
 
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