Shaft Seal and Cutless Bearing replacement.

[steveej]

I have a Jeanneau SO 32 from 2003 and would like to replace the cutless bearing this winter as there was quite a lot of wear at the end of last season. The volvo dripless shaft seal has also started to leak and I suspect it is original so it would make sense to do this at the same time.

I have read somewhere that Jeanneau cutless bearings are not standard but I am not 100% if this is the case or if it is an issue.

How difficult is it to do this?

How much would it cost (ball park) if I need to pay a professional - it is the shaft realignment that scares me most.

Thanks

 

[Stemar]

The shaft seal should be pretty straightforward, but consider a Radice or Orbitrade (ASAP's knockoff) seal, rather than the Volvo, which avoids the need to burp it after drying out.

The cutless bearing should also be a simple like for like replacement, once you've sourced the part. IIRC, they're generally held in the P bracket by a grub screw and can be pressed out. and the new one pressed in. Make sure you're pressing against the bracket, not anywhere else on the boat or you can do serious damage. For the same reason, don't try and drift it out with a hammer.

Alignment of the shaft shouldn't be an issue; it's fixed at the cutless bearing at one end and the gearbox coupling at the other, and neither should have moved.

 

[Elemental]

The shaft seal should be pretty straightforward, but consider a Radice or Orbitrade (ASAP's knockoff) seal, rather than the Volvo, which avoids the need to burp it after drying out.

The cutless bearing should also be a simple like for like replacement, once you've sourced the part. IIRC, they're generally held in the P bracket by a grub screw and can be pressed out. and the new one pressed in. Make sure you're pressing against the bracket, not anywhere else on the boat or you can do serious damage. For the same reason, don't try and drift it out with a hammer.

Alignment of the shaft shouldn't be an issue; it's fixed at the cutless bearing at one end and the gearbox coupling at the other, and neither should have moved.

Stemar is correct. I've done the cutless bearing twice, and the seal once on my 1993 Beneteau. There's nothing to align. Hardest part was removing the prop which I have to do to replace either the CB or seal.

 

[Stemar]

../..Hardest part was removing the prop which I have to do to replace either the CB or seal.

Some 18mm ply, threaded rod, nuts and washers, plus a bit of ingenuity is all you need, though the last time mine came off, a mate whacked the prop on either side with a pair of club hammers and it jumped right off.

 

[LadyInBed]

See: http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?383622-Jeanneau-Cutlass-Bearing-Replacement
From ASAP
[FONT=&quot][h=2]Beneteau & Jeanneau Shaft Bearings[/h][/FONT]
Many of the Beneteau Yacht range are fitted with a special propeller shaft bearing, as are Jeanneau and some Dufour boats. Unlike the conventional "cutlass" types shaft bearings most people are used to, the Beneteau / Jeanneau shaft bearing is a rubber sleeve with a collar on one end. There is no outer "hard" case.
We can currently offer seven (7) size options. We stock the most popular sizes, but for those which we do not stock, lead time is around 10-14 days, but can be quicker if incoming freight is paid.

 

[Moderator]

Thread relocated from The Lounge - OP might get more replies in PBO.

 

[rotrax]

The shaft seal should be pretty straightforward, but consider a Radice or Orbitrade (ASAP's knockoff) seal, rather than the Volvo, which avoids the need to burp it after drying out.

I have posted about this before, the Patent on the Volvo stuffing box has long expired-they only last 20 years and renewal payments must be maintained during the life of the Patent.

AFAIK, information from a large dealer in marine equipment, Volvo-Penta and Radice had another company make their stuffing boxes. That company was Orbitrade.

So, not really a knock off, after 20 years the technology is free for anyone to make use of.

Both Radice and Orbitrade are improved over the origonal VP Stuffing box with vent tubes and lube points.

 

[ctva]

... Hardest part was removing the prop ...

I'll second that.

I've replace the cutlass bearing on our 342 once and am going to do it again this winter.

Dead simple as the small plastic grub screw is all that holds it from being pushed out. IIFC I used a bit of wood or similar to push it back.

I got mine from Sea Ventures Jeanneau dealers. I'm also replacing the seal probably with a Radice.

Did you see the thread...
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?527914-Stern-Gland&highlight=Volvo+seal

 

[Stemar]

When removing a cutless bearing from a P bracket, if any persuasion is needed, ensure the persuader doesn't put any stain on the P bracket mounting. Injudicious use of the Birmingham screwdriver is liable to leave you with the hammer in one hand and the bracket in the other.

 

[DinghyMan]

We make kits for removal and replacement of cutlass bearings, and for removal of some props, and have made a few for YBW members

https://www.pbo.co.uk/practical-projects/diy-cutless-bearing-extractor-26496 shows DIY version

http://ffsystems.co.uk/prop_puller.html shows ours in use

 

[Norman_E]

Older Jeanneau boats, prior to the merger with Beneteau, often had mixed Imperial / metric cutless bearings. My 1998 45.2 has a bearing for the 30mm shaft, with an outside diameter of 1.75 inches.