Sewing machine for canvas & sails

P

pjobson

Active Member
Joined
23 Jun 2004
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56
Location
Godalming
www.yachtnadezhda.blogspot.com
After a long time in the tropics, my sail covers, bimini, dodger, sails and almost every outdoor cloth accessory is sufering from UV damage to the stitching. My curtains are turning to dust.

I have broken all my awl needles. Maybe this was subconcious vandalism since the long-winded and tiresome task of hand-stitching can ruin a pleasant afternoon at anchor.

So now I am looking for a sewing machine that sucks no more than 400w and can handle 4 layers of sail/acyrlic and deal with proper (waxed?) heavy duty stitching twine (ok....I'm such a novice that I don't even know the real name for the stuff).

Any suggestions?
 
TQA said:
Old cast iron SInger [ Chinese copy is OK too ] if straight stitching is all you need. Manual takes no lecky at all! Don't know about the electric version.

I paid £25 for one a few years ago. Get the heavy duty needle and it will sew through 8 layers of sailcloth.
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I second this - they are (almost) unstoppable as you can push to needle through from above if you get stuck. No power requirement. I have just finished making a cockpit tent with mine. The Singer was made in 1918!
 
If you want it

I have an old electric singer sewing machine in a wooden cabinet looks like a side table when when the machine is folded away inside. Free to you if you wish to collect it from me. PM me if interested. It belonged to my late mother and was one of those things you say "we should keep this" after 2 years of it sitting in the dining room you realise she would rather it was used :-)

Let me know if interested.




pjobson said:
After a long time in the tropics, my sail covers, bimini, dodger, sails and almost every outdoor cloth accessory is sufering from UV damage to the stitching. My curtains are turning to dust.

I have broken all my awl needles. Maybe this was subconcious vandalism since the long-winded and tiresome task of hand-stitching can ruin a pleasant afternoon at anchor.

So now I am looking for a sewing machine that sucks no more than 400w and can handle 4 layers of sail/acyrlic and deal with proper (waxed?) heavy duty stitching twine (ok....I'm such a novice that I don't even know the real name for the stuff).

Any suggestions?
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Sewing machines

I have found that an old domestic sewing machine can do a lot of heavy work.
Of course you get to a thickness of sail cloth where the needle just won't go in even with hand help on the flywheel and more of a problem it won't pull the needle out again without lifting the foot.
Buy the heaviest #16 needle and I use Guterman upholstery thread.

A recent post led to a short video on a sewing device whose name has escaped me. It seemed so elegant I made one. In my case it is a piece of brass rod with a hole in the end suitable for fitting a #16 sewing machine needle.Two small screws tapped in lock the needle in. The thread goes through the needle eye at midway point of thread. Push the needle though far enough so you can pull one side of the thread right through. First stitch you push the needle through then back making a loop the other half of the thread can be fed through pull the needle back and do another stitch. It makes a stitch similar to a sewing machine stitch. But by hand. I have to confess I haven't actually used it yet but I am sure it will work well.

I am considering making a version for bigger needle and whipping twine. I will clamp in a big hand stitching needle point first. I will then sharpen the eye end so it can be pushed through cloth or rope.

Give a domestic machine a go. It is really only on heavy sail cloth multiple layers that i have failed.
good lcuk olewill
 
Having gradually destroyed 4 domestic machines over the years with this sort of work I have finally bought a Sailrite from Solentsew. The whole package is very impressive and it looks like I shall not be able to destroy this one. But, they are pricey (£700ish). You might factor in the savings on having all the canvas work done professionally - indeed with a machine like this you would be in a position to do work for others. PM me if you have any particular questions about it.
 
Desroying Domestic Sewing Machines

I find Covekie's statement very suspicious and doubtful. To be honest I have never seen a domestic sewing machine destroyed except by neglect and rust. Certainly never from hard work. Sure they are not always able to do the job but it does not harm them. I can't imagine anyone doing so much work on a domestic as to wear it out. Yes sometimes they give a bit of trouble (terribly frustrating) and it is convenient to judge the machine as caput when all it needs is a bit of understanding from the operator. olewill
 
This question comes up regularly and people often assume that an expensive "heavy duty marine" type machine is the only answer. This is not so. Canvas and sailcloth actually sews pretty well when new, though it is tough when old, and impregnated with salt and dirt. Make sure your needle is sharp and change regularly, wax is said to help, though I have never bothered. It is vital to understand how and why upper and lower thread tension is adjusted.
I would stay clear of modern lightweights and anything with electronic control. Husqvarna and Bernina are good but expensive, even secondhand. Bernina still do a good basic machine new at about £450, very good for all the domestic jobs as well. At the other end of the scale a Jones, Singer, Frister from the 1960's is an excellent choice at about £20 - £40. Some of these are so heavy they could double and an anchor chum, whatever else you bust it is unlikely to be the machine.
I always use sailmakers V69 dacron from a spool.
 
My experience.

I bought a small Brother sewing machine from John Lewis. Cost £99.00 several years ago. Oddly it had a slightly more powerful engine than many other fancy machines. It does straight and zigzag only. Simplicity was what the sales lady advised me to go for. Also a superior pair of dress making scissors are worth their weight in gold, c£25. also in John Lewis.

With this machine I have made a stackpack type sail cover 12 ft long with zips all over, dodgers 9 ft long, Liferaft cover, cockpit bags, curtains, etc., using acrylic canvas,. with not a hint of trouble. I use Denim needles (do not use leather needles) I have stitched through 7 layers of acrylic canvas with some difficulty but 4 is a piece of cake.

I still cannot get a straight line in stitches so I use burgandy cotton on burgandy acrylic. Cotton and Fabric I got from Hawke House Marine in Fareham. White cotton on burgandy would be great if I could get it to go straight.

I would be prepared to replace UV strip on my Genoa now but not sure about tackling serious sail repairs.

Thinking about recovering my bunks next.
 
William_H said:
I find Covekie's statement very suspicious and doubtful. To be honest I have never seen a domestic sewing machine destroyed except by neglect and rust. Certainly never from hard work. Sure they are not always able to do the job but it does not harm them. I can't imagine anyone doing so much work on a domestic as to wear it out. Yes sometimes they give a bit of trouble (terribly frustrating) and it is convenient to judge the machine as caput when all it needs is a bit of understanding from the operator. olewill
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My apologies if I have misled anyone or acted suspiciously. I have no great skill at repairing these things and have always been quoted sums beyond their value to put them right. But, I have not destroyed them in the sense of broken shafts etc. One burnt out a motor but that is a placeable item. So apologies again.
 
pjobson said:
After a long time in the tropics, my sail covers, bimini, dodger, sails and almost every outdoor cloth accessory is sufering from UV damage to the stitching. My curtains are turning to dust.

I have broken all my awl needles. Maybe this was subconcious vandalism since the long-winded and tiresome task of hand-stitching can ruin a pleasant afternoon at anchor.

So now I am looking for a sewing machine that sucks no more than 400w and can handle 4 layers of sail/acyrlic and deal with proper (waxed?) heavy duty stitching twine (ok....I'm such a novice that I don't even know the real name for the stuff).

Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

I bought a Reads Sailmaker from a fellow forumite. So far I have used it for sailbag, dodgers and sprayhood repairs, also has a handle for manual use when no leccy available. Secondhand ones available on e-bay from time to time
 
I have a Singer U20. This is a heavy duty industrial zigzag machine I bought off eBay. Prior to this I used an old Singer treadle machine. I repair sails and do all the usual stuff, warning here, once you start its a bit addictive. I now have a large room set up with tables that allow me to sew large mainsails. For straight stitching the old Singer treadle machine is more than able. The trick is to properly lubricate the machine and adjust the tensions correctly. Use the correct needles and thread. Check out Sailrite.com for the recommended needles and then buy them locally, correct needle is critical. I buy my thread from the US on eBay.

Use Utube for instructional videos on how to correctly adjust bobbin tensions etc.
 
Look out for a Novum from the 70's. They are Japanese and were the same machine used by Reeds for their "Sailmaker" model. Other makers may have used it as well. Machines form that period, as doug748 says, do the job and can be picked up for next to nothing.
 
Whatever you buy, it is well worth stopping by the SolentSewingServices stand at Southampton just to see what the Sailrite can really do, either electrically or with the 'monster' handcrank ( heavy flywheel).

The only thing I find odd about such a great machine is that the base is not plywood but mdf. I can only assume this is deliberate to make the owner think 'watchit' when using and storing it in damp places?
 
I have a Janome sewing machine that does zig-zag stitches and seems to cope with my sprayhood. However, I haven't worked out how I can use it to sew anywhere in the middle of the hood as the volume of canvas alongside the 'inside' of the needle is too great. Do purpose built machines have special facilities for doing this (discounting industrial flatbed units...)?
 
though I have a Read's, I started with a Husqvarna. Solid steel frame and bed, and goes through 6 layers of ordinary terylene. Straight and zigzag stitching

They are very old fashioned and ugly and so are not in demand on the second-hand market. Ask in any sewing machine shop. Mine cost £60 with a 6 month warranty about 7 years ago.
 
I swopped a gas fridge for a 'New Home' Mod 676 machine in the 80s, built in Japan for the American brand. I sewed my sails and a friend borrowed it a few weeks ago to sew up a Sailrite kit after his wife's machine was giving trouble. He said it was streets ahead of either of theirs ( and his wife sews a lot). Does straight and zig-zag with width and length stitch adjustment plus reverse. Did 9 layers of 5 oz. for me. Needles (as above) are important, denim are recommended and work.
'The Sailmaker's Apprentice' by Marino is a good read and a must if you do sailmaking.
A
 
Denim needles are ok but you may break the thread a bit. The correct needles are designed for the waxed sythetic thread. They are no more expensive than denim needles just a bit harder to find. Mine come from a company in Tasmania. The sailrite site has tables that show the needle numbers or code to match thread and machine. The correct needles will transform that household machine.
 
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