Setting A Fortress Anchor

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C08

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I have started using my Fortress FX11 anchor in soft mud conditions but I find that it seems more difficult to get set than other anchors I have used. Is it me or is there a particular technique with a Fortress that I am unaware of. This is a serious post not a wind up.
When I get it set it then takes an enormous effort to get it out and bringing up great chunks of mud which is re-assuring but hard work!
 
C08 said:
I have started using my Fortress FX11 anchor in soft mud conditions but I find that it seems more difficult to get set than other anchors I have used. Is it me or is there a particular technique with a Fortress that I am unaware of. This is a serious post not a wind up.
When I get it set it then takes an enormous effort to get it out and bringing up great chunks of mud which is re-assuring but hard work!
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Are you using the Fortress in its mud setting? Normal setting angle is 30°, setting angle recommended for soft mud is 45°. Personally, I don't mind if an anchor is difficult to retrieve. Just shorten up, and let the boat do the work given time. As you say, it gives reassurance.
 
Pivoting fluke anchors such as the Fortress can be subject to a problem in very soft mud where the chain can sink below the anchor preventing the flukes from opening correctly. The mud palms help. Fortress will often send these out at minimal charge if they have been lost. The mud palms are OK to use in harder substrates so can be left on all the time.

The best solution for very soft subtrates is to initial set at a low scope such as 2:1. This short scope prevents the chain sinking and once the fluke opens you can set the anchor at a more normal scope.

This is covered in the Fortress anchoring guide:
Safe Anchoring Guide - The World's Best Anchors!

"6) Anchoring in Soft Mud Bottoms
All soft mud bottoms offer greatly reduced holding power compared to harder soils, and if setting problems occur, then try setting the anchor initially at very short scope, such as 2:1. As the anchor begins to dig in and set, slowly increase the scope to at least 5:1 and “Power Set” the anchor. "

Note this is usually only an issue in very soft substrates.

As has been suggested the correct fluke setting on the Fortress in very soft substrates is 45° rather than the normal 32°, but some care is needed. This setting will only work in very soft substrates. If the substrate is even little too hard for this setting the anchor will not set and will have almost no holding power. If you have any doubt the normal 32° angle will work in all substrates even those that are very soft albeit with reduced ultimate holding power. Using the 45° rather than the 32° setting in slightly too firm mud is another possibibility for the setting difficulties reported in first post.

If there is any difficulty retrieving the Fortress try and put a little side load on the anchor. This design of anchor is not very roll stable, which is why it tends to be a little unreliable with large wind shifts. This weakness can be used to help break out the anchor.
 
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In your recovery situation, which I have come across often, I tension up the anchor rode and wait. By tensioned up, it's more than just get it to straight up and down, actual put a bit of loading into the road, either with the power of the windlass or with the gypsy dog and manual lever. Every time the anchor eventually pulls clear after.

The worst I have was with a Bruce, I had winched the bow down by a good 6" and while sitting there it became obvious when the anchor released as the bow popped up. That was an exception and I have never had to use that much force since, but the principle is the same, the tension comes off the rode.

A long time ago, this method failed, and it was obvious that I had hooked something, which turned out to be a very large mooring chain.

Nolex sidewards solution is what happens when you sail an anchor out if it has well dug in.
 
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