Servicing Blakes seacocks afloat

vyv_cox

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coxeng.co.uk
This question has come up a few times, here is my experience of today.

I greased all my Blakes seacocks at the end of last season but I either forgot to do the 1.5 inch toilet one or the grease has squeezed out over the winter. Whatever, it was difficult to move when closing the holding tank and I needed to regrease it. Figuring that it allows no more water into the boat that pulling the log impeller I decided to do it today.

My wooden cones kit (never used previously in more than 20 years of ownership) includes one that looked pretty much the same as the Blakes cone, and so it transpired. I loosened the yoke nuts and bolts, then removed the bolts altogether. Pulling the Blakes cone out let a couple of litres of water into the boat before I could get the wooden cone in. Fortunately this mostly went into the shower tray where I could pump it out. I cleaned up the Blakes cone with a rag, applied grease and swapped it back with the wooden cone, this time with less water ingress. 10 minutes with the sponge and all was dry again. And the seacock turns easily!
 
So just cleaning and wiping your cone did the job? That's a result. My Blakes heads inlet has started weeping, and you can feel it catch when you turn the handle, so I've got to haul out for a day or two, to grind it in.
A satisfying job, tuppence worth of fine valve grinding paste... but hundreds of pounds to haul out!
(to be fair, I will kill another few birds with one stone)
My Blakes seacocks are 60 yrs old and still ok, they dont make em like that anymore etc ;)
 
I have used that technique several times with my 3 part stainless ball valved and most of my skin fittings have a tee with a plug on top so I can remove the plug and rod through the skin fitting if the outside gets blocked.

Like the 2 outside valves feeding my sea water distribution manifold

WEB0650-0749_zps9abd25b5.jpg
 
If you are grinding the cone in when afloat, a stiffish piece of flexible rubber / plastic placed over the inlet / grill will seal easily due to the head of pressure. I have never done this. However, I have experience of a thick plastic bag sealing the raw water inlet to the engine. That took quite a bit of poking to make it go away.
 
So just cleaning and wiping your cone did the job? That's a result. My Blakes heads inlet has started weeping, and you can feel it catch when you turn the handle, so I've got to haul out for a day or two, to grind it in.
A satisfying job, tuppence worth of fine valve grinding paste... but hundreds of pounds to haul out!
(to be fair, I will kill another few birds with one stone)
My Blakes seacocks are 60 yrs old and still ok, they dont make em like that anymore etc ;)

If you have a snorkel & mask why not stick a cork in from the outside?
 
This question has come up a few times, here is my experience of today.

I greased all my Blakes seacocks at the end of last season but I either forgot to do the 1.5 inch toilet one or the grease has squeezed out over the winter. Whatever, it was difficult to move when closing the holding tank and I needed to regrease it. Figuring that it allows no more water into the boat that pulling the log impeller I decided to do it today.

My wooden cones kit (never used previously in more than 20 years of ownership) includes one that looked pretty much the same as the Blakes cone, and so it transpired. I loosened the yoke nuts and bolts, then removed the bolts altogether. Pulling the Blakes cone out let a couple of litres of water into the boat before I could get the wooden cone in. Fortunately this mostly went into the shower tray where I could pump it out. I cleaned up the Blakes cone with a rag, applied grease and swapped it back with the wooden cone, this time with less water ingress. 10 minutes with the sponge and all was dry again. And the seacock turns easily!

Hi Vyv
Do you use the blakes green grease? Not the cheapest but you gets what you pay for and it's good stuff.
I usually stay 'in' for two years min and have original blakes
1989 valves which work fine at the touch of a finger.
Anyhow all well that ends well ☺

Mike
 
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I didn't tap the wooden cone in but presumably it swelled a little when it became wet and it took quite a bit of wiggling to release it. I only pressed it in gently.

I use a lithium complex grease for most jobs. This usually lasts a season and is adequate.

I think grinding the cones in afloat might lead to problems. Cleaning the abrasive out completely will not be very easy.
 
image.gifI used an expanding bung (£2.50 from plumbers merchants) and put it in from the outside. They are a really good fit and not a drip comes through, so you can grind the cones etc.
 
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