Self tailing winches on a Fulmar?

andyorr

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Daft question because I should have checked.... Thinking of buying an old Fulmar with the original genoa winches. Which size self tailers would I need to buy to replace them with? Lewmar 40s are £500 each! Do I need that size?
 
Go for the 40's - I have Andersen 40's on a Moody33 and they are OK. I can recommend Andersen, all stainless and excellent quality but I did buy them cheap at a boat auction.... Don't forget if the original winches work OK you'll be able to sell them either here on YBW,com or eBay.
PS - why don't you fit a pair of 'Winchers' initially and gat the S/T later - winchers are about £50 for a pair.
 
I faced exectly the same consideration when I had my Fulmar, and went for the blue Winchers available in chandlers.

I know they look like a toy but they are not. I now have real self-tailers on my Bav and can say that, unless you are a stickler for the real gear this is a viable solution.

If you stick with the real thing don't go lower in size than the existing gear. If you do, go for two speed but having a lower gear in reverse does not make it sensisble to downsize your winch.

PWG
 
given that the Fulmar is 32 ft and fractional at that - I would have thought size 40s are OTT but 30s only just enough. Surely someone must make a 35
 
I do recall that a friend with a Fulmar some years ago, presumably with original ST winches, always had to luff up in stronger winds to allow his wife or daughter to sheet fully in. Suggests that the standard ones are a little undersized for family cruising.
 
You definitly need the 40s on a Fulmar because of the friction losses due to the 320degree return from the turning blocks to the winch.
I fitted Lemar 43s for my second season 22 years ago and they have performed well ever since. the original sheet winches were inadequate but as they were self tailers I relegated them to haliyard winches.
If you have a sprayhood it may be worth your while to move the sheet winches inboard by an inch or so to make it more confortable to swing a 12 inch handle.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[320degree return from the turning blocks to the winch.]

this will increase the purchace the winch exerts x 2 ish

[/ QUOTE ]

Eh? How'd you work that out? It's not a purchase, just a turn!
 
[ QUOTE ]
1/2 the effort

[/ QUOTE ]

No, that is incorrect. Just because the line turns back on itself (which is I assume what was meant) the load will not half.
 
[ QUOTE ]
by the turning block altering the lead 180 deg it doubles the load

[/ QUOTE ]

??????? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
by the turning block altering the lead 180 deg it doubles the load

[/ QUOTE ]

No it doesn't. The load on the line stays the same.

The load on the block increases as the angle increases, but for a single block the load on the line is the same each side of the block, how can it be anything but?
 
<<<<this will increase the purchace the winch exerts x 2 ish >>>>>
<<<<< by the turning block altering the lead 180 deg it doubles the load >>>

I think you are a little confused. If I take a sheet or halyard to a winch it will be tightened according to the ratio of the winch, let's say 40:1. If I take the same sheet or halyard round a turning block first, for example to improve the lead to the winch, the purchase will be exactly the same, although as the poster said some posts ago, the friction will be increased.

In the case of many designs the genoa sheets pass through a genoa car, then to a turning block not far from the transom and hence back to the winch, an angle approaching 180 degrees in some cases. In this case the friction can be considerably increased if the turning block has a plain bearing, less so if it has ball bearings. The winch will have exactly the same purchase in either case.
 
Ah, I see where the confusion has arisen!

That is detailing the load on the block and it's mountings, not the line.
 
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