self stowing anchor rollers - have you a good one?

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My boat has a sturdy aluminium bow roller set up which I need to modify so I am looking for examples of self stowing bow rollers that work well. Particularly those that have been modified by boat owners.

My problem is that I have a bow pullpit which has a central support leg running to a socket on the bow roller casting between the two rollers. And I have bought a Manson anchor which in turn means that I need to move the stowage point further forward to prevent the roll bar on the anchor fouling this central support for the pullpit.

I suppose I could just bolt on two extended cheeks to the current set up, but I will still have to come forward to help the anchor over the pivot point of the roller and I will have to lean out further forward and the anchor will be harder to lift. So it seems sense to construct a self stowing mechanism instead.

I dont know whether anyone has done this on a Sadler or Starlight type of bow casting
 
Hi,
I am in the process of fitting an Anchorlift.
It looks very well made, my Spade hasn't arrived yet to do some testing.
Here is a pic of the smallest Anchorlift, it arrived less than 3 days from ordering by the way, from Marine Components.
stemhead6.jpg

stemhead5.jpg


Good Luck with the mod.
Howard
 
Faced with a similar problem, more so because I mostly sail on my own, I decided to fit a sort of 'bowsprit' plank arrangement. The Bruce anchor stows itself neatly on the plank and this latter also serves as a good stepping aid to the boat that is berthed bows-to on a pontoon. The wood used is Iroko and has been in place for some eleven years now. The home made roller arrangement sits beneath the plank.


CYANObowsto.jpg


CYANOwindlass.jpg
 
The anchorlift is the sort of thing I'm thinking of, but I dont want to replace my existing roller. Instead I want to have fabricated just the pivoting bit in such a way that I can fit it into my existing bow fitting.
 
The anchorlift is the sort of thing I'm thinking of, but I dont want to replace my existing roller. Instead I want to have fabricated just the pivoting bit in such a way that I can fit it into my existing bow fitting.

+1.

I have quite a narrow bow roller arrangement but with fairly deep side cheeks and I am interested in finding just the pivoting part which I will pivot on the existing roller axle. I'd be grateful too for ideas or tips from someone who has already done this.

Boo2
 
we dont seem to be getting any response Boo2. I've started to play with plywood mock ups but to my acute embarrassment I cant work out where the pivot point should be in relation to both end rollers.
 
The anchorlift is the sort of thing I'm thinking of, but I dont want to replace my existing roller. Instead I want to have fabricated just the pivoting bit in such a way that I can fit it into my existing bow fitting.

This was exactly the sort of thing i had ben thinking about so very interested to see comments and results. We only want to have a fabrication to fit (bolt) into the exististing cheek/roller arrangement and to be able to maybe carry a different type of anchor. So without going into the debate about anchor types.....................
 
Boo2... or Bosun Higgs... Did you ever find a source for just the pivoting part (i.e. with the two rollers so you could just put in place of your existing single roller)?
 
"ANCIENT THREAD" ... but still interesting.

I too would love to fit a pivoting bow roller (on my Sadler 29). I have found nothing ready made that would be suitable....they are all designed for mobos and far too small for a serious anchor. The answer of course is a custom made item .... but I really struggle trying to design such! .. and that's before considering the cost.
 
Boo2... or Bosun Higgs... Did you ever find a source for just the pivoting part (i.e. with the two rollers so you could just put in place of your existing single roller)?

No, unfortunately the side cheeks on my boat are rather close together and I couldn't find a pivoting part that would fit. I got a stainless fabricator round to have a look but after much sucking of teeth and muttering about the overhang required he went away without doing anything.

I did buy and fit a Mantus Anchor Mate, see here : http://mantusanchors.com/mantus-anchor-mate/ and intend to use this with a Rocna Vulcan which I think/hope will self stow on the existing bow roller. The Anchor Mate will prevent the anchor bashing the stem and having watched vids of the Vulcan in operation I am hopeful the shape of the shank will mean it avoids bashing the furler. If not then I will just have to resign myself to handing the anchor off the bow roller down for the first meter as well as back up. Not ideal but there you go...

Boo2
 
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Thanks Boo2..

I was on the same lines as your thinking in that something should be possible between the existing cheeks.

No issues with current setup but considered an electric windlass (to replace the current manual one) and thought that the double pivoting roller would put less stress on the windlass when stowing the anchor.. Actual thoughts were that a windlass would not like the sharp turn for the chain around a single bow roller although it's not given me any issues so far when recovering the anchor manually.

I need to experiment a little perhaps.
 
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I've started to play with plywood mock ups but to my acute embarrassment I cant work out where the pivot point should be in relation to both end rollers.

The pivot point needs to be off centre, nearer the windlass than the anchor.
I have designed two of these in recent years, one for my own boat and another for a friend. I did this after purchasing a ready made one that was not strong enough. They both work really well.

The idea was to have two rollers in a frame to fit into the existing stemhead fitting replacing the single roller. This works really well, the anchor is self launching and stows on its own, a child can do it. It also keeps the anchor a little further forward so that it is less likely to hit the bow.

Details of the latest design

The overall width must NOT be more than 50mm so as to fit, with a working clearance between the cheeks of the existing stem head fitting. The rollers are designed to take 8mm anchor chain.

The fitting is to be made of polished 316 stainless steel of 5mm thickness.

The central pivot point is to be surrounded by a thick walled pipe of 316 welded in place with the remaining internal structure.

The internal structure is detailed in beige in the drawings.

The aft (smaller) roller pivot is to be made of solid bar with counter sunk studs so that it can fit within the cheeks of the existing stem head fitting of 50mm.

The forward (larger) roller is to pivot on a 10mm bolt, this is not restricted on the outsides of the two verticals.

List of images
1. Base dimensions of one of the sides.
2. Port side vertical with internal structure & curved forward end.
3. Starboard side detailing the forward end curve.
4. Aft or small roller plan.
5. Forward or large roller plan.

N.B Please check all measurements, I am not a professional draftsman and there may be errors.
 

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+1, excellent design, anyone know somewhere to get a quote for having one made up ?

Boo2

I had several quotes, each time, they were both constructed by Sailspar for about £250, who provided a very helpful friendly service (I have no connection with them).

Sailspar Ltd.
Tower Street
Brightlingsea
Essex
CO7 0AW
Office Tel: 01206 251 348
Office Fax: 01206 303 796
Office Email: info@sailspar.co.uk
Office Website: www.sailspar.co.uk/

Some notes about the design.

1. This was for an S&S She 33.
2. The boat previously had a single roller of 50mm width.
3. Make sure your design fits your stemhead fitting with at least 1mm spare.
4. Make sure your existing stemhead is not bent or twisted.
5. The roller reefing and forestay had to be shortened and a spacer inserted to allow the unit to pivot.
6. The rollers shown were designed for 8mm chain.

Some of the above points are obvious, but just in case I include them anyway. Good luck, George
 
George.. Your diagrams were along my lines of thought.

I did wonder if perhaps one of the Osculati tilting bow rollers could be bought (for a bit less) and the middle section just taken out and re-used..

http://www.piplers.co.uk/brands/osculati/osculati-tilting-anchor-rollers

As to the mechanics and your suggestion of pivot point having to be closer to the windlass roller than the forward roller... My thoughts were that it could be mid-point or even forwards.. just so long as the centre of gravity of the stowed anchor is forwards of the pivot, then the anchor would self launch and stow.

If the COG of the anchor was directly above the pivot point then a slight boat rocking motion would still allow for self launch. So my current thoughts were to put the pivot central and just verify that the stowed anchor COG is forward of the pivot. Actually - by adding the two rollers, the anchor would stow a few inches forwards of the usual location therefore I think the COG would move forwards enough.

The problem with buying ready made units and just using the inner section is that the specifications online don't seem to show details of the inner tilt section width.
 
George.. Your diagrams were along my lines of thought.

I did wonder if perhaps one of the Osculati tilting bow rollers could be bought (for a bit less) and the middle section just taken out and re-used..

http://www.piplers.co.uk/brands/osculati/osculati-tilting-anchor-rollers

As to the mechanics and your suggestion of pivot point having to be closer to the windlass roller than the forward roller... My thoughts were that it could be mid-point or even forwards.. just so long as the centre of gravity of the stowed anchor is forwards of the pivot, then the anchor would self launch and stow.

If the COG of the anchor was directly above the pivot point then a slight boat rocking motion would still allow for self launch. So my current thoughts were to put the pivot central and just verify that the stowed anchor COG is forward of the pivot. Actually - by adding the two rollers, the anchor would stow a few inches forwards of the usual location therefore I think the COG would move forwards enough.

The problem with buying ready made units and just using the inner section is that the specifications online don't seem to show details of the inner tilt section width.

The anchor self laucher I bought before I started this, was made from 3mm plate and was definitely not strong enough for a 33ft boat even in calm conditions. The anchor rollers supplied by Piplers certainly look stronger and are made from 3mm or 4mm plate, you could always ask them the width of the pivoting section.

In my first drawing I placed the pivot point slightly aft of the centre between two equally sized rollers. In practice I have found the most difficult point for the windlass pulling a heavy anchor over a small roller is to get the first part of the anchor shank over the first roller, it is easy after that. By moving the pivot point aft and increasing the size of the first roller this part of the operation is made much easier.

I have had no problems with self launching or self stowing, however my friend with the She 33 found it an advantage to fit an anchor self righting device, that turns the anchor if it does not present itself in the correct way. See here, but page down to the anchor straightener. http://www.boatgeardirect.co.uk/mooring.html. Also available from other suppliers.

Let us all know how you get on, George
 
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