Mark Taylor
Well-Known Member
My poor storage of my Tohatsu 3.5 hp outboard now means that I have an outboard that runs, but both of the transom clamps are seized.........what is the best way of freeing off the clamps? Any ideas appreciated!!
Seized Outboard Clamps
- Thread starter Mark Taylor
- Start date
rotrax
Well-Known Member
Heat-lots of it!
Be carefull not to melt anything nearby-I use wet rags to cover stuff.
I suggest-if you get them free-that you keep them well greased before storage next year. It is one of my rituals.
So is grabbing the greasy bits when I pick it up next time.................................
Talulah
Well-Known Member
Sometimes when an engine has been stored on a wooden engine mount bracket the engine mount bracket swells up in the damp weather. This can make the engine mounts extremely tight and difficult to undo.
Not suggesting yours is on a wooden mount but others may read this.
Not suggesting yours is on a wooden mount but others may read this.
Rigger Mortice
N/A
Before trying heat try using penetrating oil. Don't force the handles though as they aren't very strong. It's worth removing them so that you can get a spanner onto the clamp and apply a bit of welly.
If that doesn't work, try heat.
If that doesn't work, try heat.
oldbilbo
...
PlusGas.... several times.
dylanwinter
Well-Known Member
I agree
penetrating oil and patience - days rather than hours and give gravity a chance to help
an adjustable spanner on the bolts can also help - don't forget to try both ways to get them moving
D
Spyro
Well-Known Member
Had this problem on my 3.5 johnson. When you do get them loose you may need to take the bolts out and run through the holes with a suitable sized tap as the threads in the housing can corrode and jam the bolts.
AndrewB
Well-Known Member
That's what I did with my 3.5. As they are riveted on they will need to be drilled out and reattached with a small bolt. This is such a common problem it leaves you wondering why the clamps are made like this. Just cheapskate, like the use of mild steel bolts in the bracket assembly.
dylanwinter
Well-Known Member
you can use an adjustable without removing the clamps handles
if you put the adjustable on the opposite side to the clamp and turn both at once you can usually avoid snapping the clamp handle
if you do then you have access to the end of the thread anyway
giving mixed metal fittings wellie always frightens me - slow but firm is the way - penetrating oil, gravity and time
D
Neil_Y
Well-Known Member
ACF-50 then corrosion block grease
Mark Taylor
Well-Known Member
Lots of good advice above so thanks everyone.......especially the bit about removing the handles from the clamps
regards
Mark
regards
Mark
Martin_J
Well-Known Member
And once you have them free.... Try taking the prop off!
Removing the split pin is easy... but then if the prop has not been off for a while you could find rather hard deposits between the prop and the shaft are holding it on so hard that the shear pin would be of little use...
Again.. lots of hot water.. some grease... and it'll be easy in future.
Removing the split pin is easy... but then if the prop has not been off for a while you could find rather hard deposits between the prop and the shaft are holding it on so hard that the shear pin would be of little use...
Again.. lots of hot water.. some grease... and it'll be easy in future.
LittleShip
Well-Known Member
+1 mine was very tight this time, corrosion block is the best product I have come across for marine use. Comes in grease and oil for with pump and spray applicators.
Tom.
Topcat47
Well-Known Member
My Tohatsu had similar problem. Penetrating oil applied with a spray frequently over a couple of days, then the gentle application of hat from an electric heat gun helped. Once I got them moving, I applied Teflon Grease and worked them in and out until they were relatively free moving. Then I applied a little motorcycle chain lubricant to the threads as it is waterproof and very tacky.
