seized bottle screw - any suggestions

It is recommended not to use stainless steel rig screws for just that reason, it is much better to use bronze bodies, if you are replacing it might be better to go for a bronze open bodied rig screw. Much more reliable. It sounds like you have already put a lot of effort into shifting it so i guess it is done for. I once had to unstep a rig on a oceanis 411 with a cordless grinder because they had gaulled and were now unreliable.
 
Nothing to do with Sta Lok but a good rigging screw that won't fail!

From the Sta Lok Website......
Sta-Lok bronze turnbuckles were introduced in 1990 and quickly became recognised as the best in the world.

Forged from high tensile bronze alloy and chromium plated to give a highly polished finish, bronze turnbuckles are some of the strongest most elegant turnbuckles on the market today, making them the professional's choice.
 
Turnscrews Bronze body

Bronze body turnscrews (turnbuckles or rigging screws) are pretty common in oz. However they still can seize up. I had a regime of loosening all turnscrews each winter and greasing them with axle grease. They lasted for 32 years. Finally shamed I replaced them last winter now I think with stainless steel open type. I will keep greasing and moving them each year. For bronze body ss screws use all of the above tricks then when you have had enough buy a new one. Of course it is a bit difficult if you can't detach the stay wire. might require new stay and turn screw. Or just leave it seized and adjust the others around it.(short term solution) good luck olewill
 
"Galling" means something more than simply seizing up. It happens when a stainless steel thread is turned against heavy friction, and tends to self-weld. Heat is involved, so if you feel warmth when forcibly unscrewing a stainless bottle-screw, then the thread is likely to be damaged by galling. If this is bad the thread will be loose when you reassemble it later. Sometimes just a turn or so is affected and it may be possible to reuse the screw.

I find it is most likely when trying to undo a bottle-screw under load, so if you can release the screws on the other side of the mast first, that will help. Also, ease the screw no more than a quarter turn at first, then relubricate and leave to cool down. Continue this process. If it continues to be just as stiff after a turn or two, you've had it.
 
If its stainless steel it may have galled. I had one that did this and nothing would shift it. Held it in a vice and heated it but it did not work. I think I probably destroyed the thread trying to force it. I ended up replacing it. I wouldn't have trusted it anyway.
I'd 2nd this.

In fact I'd never have anything but plated bronze bottlescrews in my rigging.

Not only does 316 stainless gall, but it work hardens, fatigues and suffers from crevice corrosion.

Evil things stainless steel bottlescrews.
 
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