Seized Blakes seacock

[vyv_cox]

They were gunmetal in 1937; the ones that I took out in 1997, to replace with a larger size, were fine,

Gunmetal is a superior bronze with 10% tin content. Little of it in use these days as tin is so expensive. LG2 and LG4 are the modern substitutes, OK but do not have the performance of Gunmetal. I suspect that Blakes made later than yours but before DZR were one of those.

 

[john_morris_uk]

Gunmetal is a superior bronze with 10% tin content. Little of it in use these days as tin is so expensive. LG2 and LG4 are the modern substitutes, OK but do not have the performance of Gunmetal. I suspect that Blakes made later than yours but before DZR were one of those.

All has been said re how to solve the op’s problem so sorry to drift the thread...

Why anyone would think ball valves are superior to Blake’s seacocks is beyond me. I replaced most of my ball valves with new DZR ones when we bought our boat 14 years ago. They’re exercised regularly and all appeared to be working. At a major refit three years ago I discovered that although the handles were turning some weren’t actually turning the ball at all. More new valves fitted...

On a fifty year old SCOD I once owned, I removed, stripped and cleaned the Blake’s valves. A couple of new handles and ground the cones in and they were as good as the day they were fitted in the late 50’s.

No contest.

 

[savageseadog]

All has been said re how to solve the op’s problem so sorry to drift the thread...

Why anyone would think ball valves are superior to Blake’s seacocks is beyond me. I replaced most of my ball valves with new DZR ones when we bought our boat 14 years ago. They’re exercised regularly and all appeared to be working. At a major refit three years ago I discovered that although the handles were turning some weren’t actually turning the ball at all. More new valves fitted...

On a fifty year old SCOD I once owned, I removed, stripped and cleaned the Blake’s valves. A couple of new handles and ground the cones in and they were as good as the day they were fitted in the late 50’s.

No contest.

I think Blakes are a superior product as well, I've had both Blakes and ball valves. Skin fitting and valve in one compact unit and serviceable.

 

[Lodesman77]

Tools needed: Spanner. Short length of broomstick. Club hammer.

With the boat ashore or on the hard:
1. Take the keep off (duh!)
2. Insert broomstick into cone.
3. Clout broomstick.

Done.

+1 If this doesn't work and desperation measures are required, then use 1/2" socket extension and a sledgehammer. In the meantime another vote for using PlusGas as a penetrant

 

[Caer Urfa]

All has been said re how to solve the op’s problem so sorry to drift the thread...

Why anyone would think ball valves are superior to Blake’s seacocks is beyond me. I replaced most of my ball valves with new DZR ones when we bought our boat 14 years ago. They’re exercised regularly and all appeared to be working. At a major refit three years ago I discovered that although the handles were turning some weren’t actually turning the ball at all. More new valves fitted...

On a fifty year old SCOD I once owned, I removed, stripped and cleaned the Blake’s valves. A couple of new handles and ground the cones in and they were as good as the day they were fitted in the late 50’s.

No contest.

+1 have had Blakes valves on my boat since 1989, service them every two years using Blakes own 'green grease' , expensive yes good value yes, Ball valves No way

 

[richardabeattie]

Sorry if this sounds dim but nobody has said which end to put the broomstick or other rammer into. Surely it has to be from the outside in which case the rammer has to contact the rather narrow rim of the cone and not the surrounding skin fitting.

 

[john_morris_uk]

Sorry if this sounds dim but nobody has said which end to put the broomstick or other rammer into. Surely it has to be from the outside in which case the rammer has to contact the rather narrow rim of the cone and not the surrounding skin fitting.

not dim but au contraire.

You can put the broom handle (or punch of your material and choice) to the bottom of the hole in the cone (straight past the oval slot milled in one side that connects the oggin to hose when the cone is turned to the 'open' position.)

 

[richardabeattie]

Unclear. Surely the punch has to come up from outside the hull? How does punching down from inside help?

 

[Tranona]

Unclear. Surely the punch has to come up from outside the hull? How does punching down from inside help?

Never any suggestion that the punch comes from the inside - always from the outside as the cone goes upwards to free it. If you look at the cone it is hollow - has to be as the water flows through it - and your drift has to be small enough to go inside the cone to bear against the top, although one the exact size of the rim would also do.

 

[richardabeattie]

Precisely - and that's how I've done it in the past. But no earlier post made that clear.

 

[john_morris_uk]

Precisely - and that's how I've done it in the past. But no earlier post made that clear.

It’s explicit in post #3 and implicit in a few others.

Of perhaps it’s just because some of us have been there and done it, we thought it was obvious?