Securing engine room soundproofing

contessaman

contessaman

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Just about removed the mess that was once a foam backed soundproofing from my engine room. What an awful job! Not sure what it was glued on with but the old glue and bits of foam had turned into a horrible dust.

I picked up several new sheets from the guy at beaulieu and my thoughts are now turning to cladding my engine room with it.

Appealing to your collective wisdom for useful tips on what glue to use to secure it and what mechanical means to hold it in place also.

Presently I'm thinking some form of spray or grab adhesive followed by varnished hardwood battens, with screws through into the wood behind.

Also... What solutions have you come up with for the things that need mounting on the bulkhead (racor filters , eberspacher heater etc) do you just bolt them directly to the bulkhead and allow them to crush the soundproofing in that area? Do you cut a hole in the soundproofing and fit a piece of ply or hardwood of comparable thickness? Or use some kind of stand-off bolts?

Again grateful to hear what has and hasn't worked for you.

Ta
 
contessaman said:
......Also... What solutions have you come up with for the things that need mounting on the bulkhead (racor filters , eberspacher heater etc) do you just bolt them directly to the bulkhead and allow them to crush the soundproofing in that area? Do you cut a hole in the soundproofing and fit a piece of ply or hardwood of comparable thickness? Or use some kind of stand-off bolts?

Again grateful to hear what has and hasn't worked for you.

Ta
Click to expand...


I have used the contact stuff and it works ok but I do like the idea of using mechanical fixing if it suits your case. I wanted to put some on the underside of the cockpit and did a fix with glue further supported with seat belt webbing it's ok but I like your idea of battens, better, if you have the room.

For fixing stuff I like to mount wood blocks to suit and bring the soundproofing up to them. The fitting is then solid; anything substantial secured through the foam always feels a bit wobbly.
 
You can see here how I attached mine.
IMGP2717_zpsblk3e0gn.jpg


The lid is done the same way with no sagging.
 
I used Evostick and then a few penny washers with screws, as much to hold the sheets in place while the adhesive set although they've remained happily in place since
 
I used Screwfix's 'No Nonsense' contact adhesive to secure the one panel that I had to remove.
The others have all been secured the same way and in place for over ten years.

I would say the fasteners are only required for an upside down surface, say under the cockpit sole or something like that.

IMG_0368.jpg
 
The last two boats I've done this job with, I used Evostick Timebond adhesive. The soundproofing sheets are heavy and difficult to manoeuvre into place sometimes, so non-grab adhesive has worked well for me. The current soundproof sheets have been on the boat for the last twelve years without moving.
 
Gripfill green tube (solvented) building adhesive works well. It can also be used to fix pieces of plywood to fibreglass for mounting things on. It is not instant, so you can position things but when it sets it is very strong. For the upside down fixing use a piece of scrap ply to support the insulation and some scrap wood to hold it up while the adhesive sets. The less through fixings the better as anything solid will transmit sound.
 
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