Seawater pump KAD42

maltabob1

New Member
Joined
18 Sep 2006
Messages
20
Location
Malta
Visit site
Noticed this week after a 25 mile run out, sorry guys the sea and sun were too good to miss, the stb pump was spraying out a little water?
Is it much of a job to overhaul the pump?
 
No it's quiet easy. You must have a good pair of circlip pliers though. You can get a complete overhaul kit including seals, bearings and shaft. You may find you only need the seals. When the pump is removed check the rubber drive piece that goes between the engine and pump.

When getting the parts from your Volvo dealer ask them to print out the exploded diagram they have on their parts computer.
 
Its very rare that you can change just the seals without fitting a new shaft, why does a rubber seal cut into stainless steel like that ?
 
Just done both of mine. Not too complicated but worth replacing everything seeing as you have them apart. Make sure you put the bearings/washers in the right way - they don't look right as the spring side is out but it is the correct way.
 
This is how I did it. Some say you should use a press to put bearings on, but I don't have one, however i do have a vice and a hammer!
Hope photos work.


Undoing the two securing bolts in the electrics box allowed it to be hinged aft to gain access to the bolts holding the seawater strainer and the pump was removed complete with strainer.

DSCN0849.jpg


The alternator was removed for cleaning and painting which also gave better access to the incoming sea-water hose at the bottom of the pump.
The pump is only just above the water line so the incoming sea-water hose was removed from the pump and fastened to a temporary 32mm OD pipe with its end sealed.
Also note years of belt dust on the engine!

DSCN0856.jpg


DSCN0862.jpg


DSCN0868.jpg


This comprehensive repair kit from Volvo includes seals, bearings, shaft, cover plates, wear plates, cams, screws and circlip will repair all pumps on AD31 to KAD 300 series and priced at £85. A kit from Tricket with just the bearings, seals and circlip is about half the price.

DSCN0869.jpg


First, the pump cover was removed and the gasket carefully removed for re-use later. Then the impeller was removed ( I use two screw drivers as levers taking care not bruise the pump casing).

DSCN0870.jpg


The circlip securing the bearings is removed.

DSCN0872.jpg


Then the shaft complete with bearings is removed from the pump body using a 14mm socket as a drift.

DSCN0873.jpg


DSCN0874.jpg


The old seals, o-ring and plastic spacer were pressed out using a 15mm socket as a drift. NOTE the order left to right is from the back of the pump to the front of the pump.

DSCN0877.jpg


Using a ½” drive socket extension as a drift, the shaft was removed from the old bearings taking care not to burr the top of the shaft which could otherwise seize the shaft in the bearing.

DSCN0875.jpg


Greasing the bearings and the shaft and making sure that the inner race of the bearing is bridged over the jaws of the vice, the shaft is drifted into the first bearing right to the end of the widest part of the shaft using a 14mm socket, the second bearing is drifted on in a similar manner until it touches the first bearing – again ensuring that the inner race of the bearing is bridged over the jaws of the vice and that no stress is put on the ball race.

DSCN0910.jpg


DSCN0912.jpg


The seals are pressed into the pump body making sure that the lips and springs of the seals face away from each other. The o-ring and the carrier with it prongs pointing forward sit between the seals.

DSCN0878.jpg


The outer surface of the bearings were lightly greased and making sure that the shaft goes through the carrier and o-ring, the shaft and bearings were drifted into the pump body using a large socket that bears on the outer race of the bearings (but small enough that it doesn’t sieze in the pump body)– again so no stress is placed on the ball race.

DSCN0879.jpg


Finally the circlip is placed over the bearings.

DSCN0880.jpg


Eddie
 
Eddie,
I see we have the same boat - forgotten how tight for space it is in front of the port engine with the battery box in place. We modified mine when we had the engines out for a bit of TLC - got oodles of space now (well, what passes for oodles on a Targa)!!
 
Eddie,
I see we have the same boat - forgotten how tight for space it is in front of the port engine with the battery box in place. We modified mine when we had the engines out for a bit of TLC - got oodles of space now (well, what passes for oodles on a Targa)!!

Hi Greg,
That's interesting, where did you relocate the battery box? I've thought about making a platform for the batteries on the port side beneath the cockpit locker. I've already moved the engine blower and all that hose from the tread plate. Like you say, very tight for replacing impeller on port engine.

Eddie
 
Hi Greg,
That's interesting, where did you relocate the battery box? I've thought about making a platform for the batteries on the port side beneath the cockpit locker. I've already moved the engine blower and all that hose from the tread plate. Like you say, very tight for replacing impeller on port engine.

Eddie

PM sent

The full story is in the link below (might have to copy and paste the address into your browser)

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=155639
 
Last edited:
Top