Seamaster 23 - what should I be looking at?

bobdoughty

bobdoughty

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I'm coming back to sailing after a long absence and am looking for a 20-25 foot cruiser where sea-kindliness comes before speed. It also needs to be a bilge keeler (or lift?). I've been offered a Seamaster 23 with 10hp Bukh diesel which has been reasonably looked after for the last 10 years for £5,750. What should I be looking for on this boat? What goes wrong? Does anyone have any general comments/advice on the Seamaster? What about the price? What about alternatives like the Hurley 22? Questions, questions!!! The Seamaster does however come with a mooring where I want it which is making it a front-runner for now. Any help much appreciated.
 
My father had a Seamaster 23 - bilge keel with a Bukh 10 (called Moonshadow).

The only problem we had with it was the engine - but soon got it cleared up with the help of a friendly mechanic. They are quite robust engines - but will likely be the original and so around 35 years old - perhaps get this looked at by the surveyor/engineer.

Jonny
 
If the engine, sails and equipment are all in reasonable condition, then you probably 'cant go wrong' with this boat, as they seem to be asking a reasonable price (which could perhaps be negotiated down a bit if you find any defects to use as bargaining chips).

It would be worthwhile doing a search on Yachtworld and Boatshed for other vessels in the 20 - 25' range, and see what is out there for comparison.

A pal of mine bought a 24' Snapdragon earlier this year for a bit over 5k - she was in reasonable condition, sails were good, standing rigging had been replaced not long before, and she has a 10 hp Beta engine that is only a few years old.

Compare the Snapdragon and your Seamaster with new boats today, selling for probably 6 times as much, and then you will think that older boats are generally excellent value!
 
I bought a boat and mooring some ten years ago. I sold the boat, but still have the mooring! Perhaps the old saw about buying houses applies to boats, too - What three things should you look for in a new house? Ans. - location, location and location!

Cheers! Neil
 
You should be looking at my wing 25!
Try woodrolfe brokerage.
In all honesty there are as many small boats as you care to look at - in my opinion you've got the next 5 months to kick a few tyres befgore the season starts. It's much harder to sell than buy. Keep looking and comparing for a good couple of months.
And enjoy.
 
I am pretty sure that the Seamaster I looked at in May was called Moonshadow.

White hull with a blue stripe.

She needed a bit of TLC but could have been the perfect boat for the then SWMBO and I if we had stayed together.
 
i've just re-read your post - it sounds like a very good proposition with the mooring exactly where you want it.
Older boats are much better value and are likely to be much better made vessels imho - everything is made to minimum spec these days.
 
My first boat was a Seamaster 23.

Pro's were that she was a well built boat, and made the most of the size.

Con's were her age, old Bukh engine was sod, and what I found difficult to forgive her for was that she sailed like a bath tub.

A good first boat to get the hang of sailing etc, but was swiftly outgrown for those who want to actually get somewhere.

The mooring might be the goal here.

Pricewise, I bought and sold the beast for £6000 ish, ten years ago!
 
Brilliant information everyone; thanks. Re the sailing abilities, I'm told it struggles in light airs and I'm assuming that as a bilge keeler it doesn't go very close to the wind. Do they typically have a lot of weather helm?
 
Sadly no. The mooring's in a small fishing harbour which dries. All the sailing boats seem to be bilge keel so I'm just assuming that's the way to go.
 
makes sense.
I have a triple keel wooden boat now - the sideways leeway isn't half as bad if i maintain as little fouling of weed as possible. A good clean halfway through the season really helps.
I'd have to say speed is hardly an issue in a day sail - if you do 3 knots compared to 3.75 it hardly matters. If you're planning long passages you'll trade up and I am assuming you are going to start easy and work upwards.
I would say, though, that according to the broker people have lots of access to money/credit nowadays and are buying big boats as their first purchase. 35 foot average sized first boat. This means selling small boats is getting harder in recent times - so he tells me whilst failing to sell my little 25 foot boat.
I guess you don't know what you want ot do yet but it might pay to think whether you would be better off buying then best boat you can possibly afford as small "starter" boats seem harder to sell.
2 best pieces of advice i ever got - never have 2 boats (where i am now and very expensive while i can't sell!) and less obvious but very importat: always buy a boat in the best possible condition you can for your money - less for you to do after the purchase - more sailing less expense, less worry, less problems.
 
I had a Hurley 22 and have sailed on a friends Seamaster. The Hurley sailed better was extremely seaworthy but had less room below than the Seamaster.

The Seamaster sailed ok but didnt have the same sparkle as the H22.

I would expect to get a good hurley for less than 4k .Not sure what Seamasters go for but haggle hard if thats what you want.As has been said in the smaller cruising boat range its definitely a buyers market.

good luck with whatever you go for.
 
Moonshadow (if its the same one) was called Gurkha when we bought her.
She was white with a thin blue stripe - had new sails, sail covers, dodgers etc in around 1995 - made by Fleetwood Trawlers Supplies.

She was in great condition when we sold her (around 1997) and she went off to the river Dart if I recall correctly.

She certainly looked after us - not the fastest boat under sail or necessarily the best looking - but good and solid for the money.

Jonny
 
I have a seamaster 23 lift keel of 1972.

I don't know about the bilge keel version but the lift keel has excellent light wind performance and leaves westerly griffons standing. They need reefing early in a blow and over a 4 I tend to drop the main and sail along quite happily at 4 knots plus with a balanced helm. Very balanced to windward but a they do pull a bit at the helm on a reach.

Price seems a bit high with an original engine. Mine had a 1gm10 yanmar that was 10 years old and cost me £5,500 with a new set of sails.
As they have balsa sandwich decks look for any movement around shroud u-bolts and stancion bases.

Otherwise they are pretty much bullet proof.

Finally - a slug? No way! the only time performance is a bit suspect is beating into a chop over a force 5 - by which time I motorsail!

All the best
 
Owned a Seamaster 23 for six years, only problem was the drop keel rusted through at the pivot pin, lot of help and drawings for new plate from the Seamaster club. Apart from that a great little boat.
 
"Never have 2 boats and less obvious but very important, always buy a boat in the best possible condition you can for your money"
Very good advice jezjez; already made mistake number 2 in the past and spent a lot of good sailing time fixing things up! Would you go for a survey on a boat like this with a 10 year history in the local club and if yes how much does it cost and where do you find a reliable local surveyor?
 
Would always advise a survey if you are not a professional boat builder or very experienced.

Firstly the surveyor will know what to look for, and if he misses it, you can sue him! (Insurance they call it)

Costs, probably around £400. A lot, I know, but if it saves you buying a boat in need of a lot of TLC, then it might save you several thousand.

Have to say it's 4 years since I had a survey on my boat, so not sure if thats an uptodate cost.

IMHO
 
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