Sealine S24 Kad32 DPE Outdrive - Geeting Antifreeze into seawater System

You are going to have trouble with whatever boat you get :)

All props need to be removed every year and greased, else they will stick.

If the boat has not been out of the water for some time you will have extra ‘fun’ nothing to do with VP

This forum is full of ‘experts’ ask away b4 you hang up your boots :)
 
Hi .. I sympathise with your frustrations.
I have the older 290 Drives and I remove the props every year otherwise they are a devil to remove. I used to flush the drives with fresh water with a large plastic (loft type) water tank fitted with a drain tap, but over the last few years various boatyards “requested” we did not start the engines ashore for fear of dislodging the support blocks etc.
So now it is just draining the water from the engine drain points.
With mine I can hand fill an antifreeze mix from the water filter until I get antifreeze into the exhaust manifold which is only a couple of litres, (checked by the exhaust manifold drain cock). It is probably next to useless but at least I know I get the mix into the oil cooler.
I have seen a large canvas bag tied over the drive which can cycle the antifreeze mixture though keeping an eye on the temperature. At least with this method you won’t need gallons of antifreeze!!!
 
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Thanks for all the encouraging comments. Yes I am a hardened DIYer and that is probably why I get so frustrated when I find it so hard to achieve what should be so easy.

Vey interesting point about vibrating the supports loose Did not think of that one.

The problem with hard tanks is they are very difficult to get under the drive as I found out today.

Anyway I think I have had some success. After I did this a friend said to get the pipe off in the engine bay why did you not just heat it with a hair drier !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Doh I though
 
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So this was my method:

For some reason my drive only goes a small way up (I have now learnt of a button near the centre of the throttle stick which should make it go all the way up) so getting a box under it is not easy. The 'soft' Box I made last night with Ply ends and an old Tarpaulin and a bit of CT1 I was able to get under it after some effort.

I filled this with water and her indoors (she loves cold windy days at the boat yard being told what to do :)) Started the engine. I ran it a while to flush it through a bit

I then put on a pair of oblong shaped muffs I have on the inlet the best I could under the water. This way the pump could not suck air.

I then mixed a bucket with some strong antifreeze mix. I filled a short length of pipe with water and put one end in the bucket which was high on the swim platform. Her indoors held it in place.

I then connected the other end to the muffs under the water and it sucked the antifreeze out of the bucket. After a while I saw antifreeze coming out of the exhaust.

Now I will have lost some and of course some water will have gone in but generally the Antifreeze was near the inlet or right over it so I am quite confident that there is a reasonably strong mix of antifreeze all in the raw water side of the system.

Once the bucket was empty her indoors shut off the engine.

I then used a cheapo Bilge Pump (ebay special) on a stick to pump the water out of the tank.

At the end of it all Her Indoors said...…………. Some women have a normal Sunday...………. I know not what she means

box-1.jpg


box-2.jpg
 
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There was a good wind blowing at the yard and it made me think,,,,,,, If I was sitting in an engine bay with a pipe blowing this on my neck I would not be too chuffed.

I therefore stuffed an old towel and some other rag covered with some plastic (to keep it dry) into the air intakes and other holes (Bilge Pump outlet for example) to stop an icy draft blowing into the engine bay.

I actually think this is very important and for once very easy and you don't need a special Volvo Penta tool or branded towel/rag to do it...……...
 
Fascinating way to spend the weekend.
looking at your photos you had the ideal set up to use a funnel and pipe to the muffs attached to the snap davit fitting.
Fresh water supply straight to muffs for flushing followed by antifreeze via funnel. try it next year assure you it will work.
Don't forget to change the driveshaft bellows every two years that will make an interesting post
 
stelican said:
Fascinating way to spend the weekend.
looking at your photos you had the ideal set up to use a funnel and pipe to the muffs attached to the snap davit fitting.
Fresh water supply straight to muffs for flushing followed by antifreeze via funnel. try it next year assure you it will work.
Don't forget to change the driveshaft bellows every two years that will make an interesting post
Click to expand...

Please lets not get on to Bellows or worse impellers and how often they should be changed or a war will break out.

Don't forget the Planet cannot afford people replacing things that don't need it or Greta will be on you like a shot
 
The thing that amazed me the most was that the box I made with Tarp and Plywood basically sealed with CT1 did not leak a bit
 
stelican said:
Fascinating way to spend the weekend.
looking at your photos you had the ideal set up to use a funnel and pipe to the muffs attached to the snap davit fitting.
Fresh water supply straight to muffs for flushing followed by antifreeze via funnel. try it next year assure you it will work.
Don't forget to change the driveshaft bellows every two years that will make an interesting post
Click to expand...

Nearly all of our weekends are like that :)…. Isnt that what happens when you own a boat
 
Just flushed AF and water through a KAD 44
i rinse it after use, so no need to be excessive with the flushing of AF
put 3L of water and 1L of concentrated AF in a bucket

checked the AF concentrate in the spills = -7C
wonder how many peeps bother with this, any KAD owners with frozen water damage in the seawater side of their engine ?

had greased up the hoses recently, all came apart no prob and the water pump sucked the bucket dry in little time
 
Whilst it can be a right PITA to get the inlet hose to the impeller housing off, the whole process of flushing/inhibiting is so much easier with a rig done from the cockpit and, as we do it twice a year, it’s worth persevering even if you have to change the hose ... It only goes down to the power steering oil cooler.

I think the boatyard’s who don’t allow the engine to be started on props for flushing are a little “misguided” to be honest, there’s far more chance of movement from us clambering all over the boat through the winter than from a KAD32 at idle.
 
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