Seagull o/b a few q's

sabresailor

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Seagull o/b a few q\'s

Hi - well my forty plus is now running!! tired the trick with the drill to re-magnetise it - nice spark now!!!

Will try saving old seagulls for a carb gasget set - but where else can I get a set for the villiers carb?

Gearbox - I assume the only place i need put oil is the 'gear box' at the bottom by the prop? I assume there is no where at the top end which needs oil.

Other than the 10:1 fuel mix, checking that water is being pumped through (& out the hole by the cylinder) + gear oil - I assume there is nothing else I should worry about?

Is it worth taking the botten end off & poking about in the 2 'legs' - or are they basically maint. free?

Any other help appreciated.

Mike

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omega2

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Re: Seagull o/b a few q\'s

One leg carries exhaust fumes, the other a square rod connecting the crank to the gears, not much to go wrong, except the impellor is at the bottom end of the rod, so if no water at tell tale this is were to look.

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paulrossall

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Re: Seagull o/b a few q\'s

Seagulls take a different sort of oil in the gearbox than all other outboards, or so I am told by the engineer who services mine.Paul

<hr width=100% size=1>" there is nothing-absolutely nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats".
 

VicS

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Re: Seagull o/b a few q\'s

The gearbox is filled completely by laying the engine down an pouring oil in through the filler. The correct oil is SAE 140 but I don't know how easy it is to get now, fortunately I have an adequate personal supply. There are no seals so the gearbox normally runs on a mixture of oil and water, also tends to leak oil all over the place especially where you don't want it like in the car boot and all over your clothes.

You can change to a 25:1 fuel mix. That requires a different needle in the carb. but it does make the thing less messy to handle.

I can't think what gaskets you need for the Villiers carb are there any? I've not noticed one in nearly 30 years, some fibre washers perhaps or do you have a very old one with a joint washer between the body and the (metal) float chamber.

The water pump impellor is not a flexible one so it is normal for the water flow to all but cease at idle speed but it should last forever.

Clean and reset the plug gap. A new plug every 10 or 15 years is a good idea. Also check the points at about the same interval. If you have a very old one with a separate condenser any car type that will fit will do when the time comes.

If it 4strokes the mixture is too rich if it seams to need the choke for too long the mixture is too weak. In the end some 4 stroking is inevitable.

No there is no reason to go poking about the bottom end or to separate the top from the bottom but if you do have to I seem to remember that one ot the legs stays attached to the top bit and the other comes away with the gear box

I take that you know <A target="_blank" HREF=http://saving-old-seagulls.co.uk>http://saving-old-seagulls.co.uk</A>. Sorry I have just read you earlier post so you do!



<hr width=100% size=1><font color=purple>Ne te confundant illegitimi.</font color=purple><P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by VicS on 14/03/2004 22:08 (server time).</FONT></P>
 

Birdseye

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Re: Seagull o/b a few q\'s

Best thing you can do is take it to bits! You will understand how to maintain it afterwards, its easy to do, and you can give it a good clean out whilst you're at it.

They are crude, heavy, old style British engineering initially designed (I understand) as wartime utility engines. So they are pretty foolproof with not so good electrics - thats one area that has improved beyond all recognition on modern kit. There is a seal on the propellor shaft but its an old leather washer type thing with limited sealing abilities. The water pump impellor is designesd not to touch the sides, which means that it doesnt wear and also that it doesnt work very well at idle. The gearbox at the bottom requires SAE140, but it drips out so people have sometimes used grease instead. This area would probably benefit from cleaning out what is likely to be a horrible mix of dirt, old oil, maybe grease, sand - that was what was in mine.


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davehu

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Re: Seagull o/b a few q\'s

SAE 140 is the only oil to use in the Gearbox. The correct level is to the bottom of the filler plug thread with the engine standing vertical. You need to keep a good check on the level as it leaks out in use. SAE 140 is difficult to obtain I find that Agricultural engineers are the best source of supply

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snowleopard

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Re: Seagull o/b a few q\'s

useful tip obtained from a seagull engineer at the factory: unlike other motors, the throttle should be treated as an on/off switch, don't attempt to run it at half throttle or it will 4-stroke (even more like a bag of nails than usual).

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dickh

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Re: Seagull o/b a few q\'s

Check with Saving-Old-Seagulls about the gearbox oil - some used SAE 90 oil.

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