Seacocks

Dave3818

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Apologies if this message is a repetition. I am new to computers as well as chat forums. I think I lost the original.

My problem is a seacock. My friend owns a Westerly Centaur. The outlet valve from the heads has jammed in the open position. The valve is we believe a Blakes 'Popular Plus' seacock.

We have tried the application of heat, penetrating oil and brute force but cannot shift it. The valve is I assume in two parts, the outer being secured to the inner by four long rivet headed bolts. We have tentatively tried to remove a bolt by striking the loosened nut but without success. We have perhaps tackled it rather gingerly as we are not sure how it is fixed and do not want to cause damage. The seacock is mounted on a circular wooden disc attached to the hull We presume that it is less than ideal for the valve to remain fully open at all times so it is imperative that we loosen it. Any advice would be really grategully appreciated.
 

ccscott49

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On top of the valve, should be two or three bolts, which hold the inside tapered valve to the body, loosen these and then tap the body a few times, the tapered valve should now move, it is permitted (on my boat anyway) to slide a short piece of pipe over the handle and try and turn the valve, it will give. When it moves, remove the bolts, tapered part, clean it and the body, then refit with waterproof grease.
 

Mirelle

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DON\'T TRY THIS AFLOAT!!!

In fact don't try and force a seacock at all when the boat is afloat. The range of interesting ways in which you can sink your boat (seacock detaches from hull, complete with backing pad, seacock body fractures....) is extensive, due to the possibility that either the body or the bolts may have suffered electroylic degradation.

The retaining bolts actually hold down a bronze yoke, which fits over the top of the tapered plug.

Now, what you do is very simple. With the boat ashore, or at least dried out between tides, get short length of stout wooden dowelling to act as a drift, back off the retaining bolts, insert your bit of wood from the outside of the hull up the body of the seacock plug, and tap gently with a heavy hammer.

This is guaranteed to work, every time.

Now, if it is badly scored, lap it in with a little valve grinding paste. If not, ignore this step, and apply some grease - Blake's own grease is best. but Duckham's Keenol is OK, then re-assemble and remember to move the handle every couple of weeks or so.

Stripping and greasing the seacocks should be an annual fit out chore.
 

ccscott49

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Re: DON\'T TRY THIS AFLOAT!!!

Just a tip, never, ever use grinding paste on brass, bronze or any other very soft metal. The grinding paste, will bed into the metal and you will never remove it, it then sits in the metal components and wears away, every time the valve is operated. I am aware some people reccomend this, but it is engineeringly wrong. I also agree, dont do this afloat, I took it maybe wrongly, that you were on the hard.
 

ccscott49

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Re: DON\'T TRY THIS AFLOAT!!!

The only acceptable ways (I know), are skimming, reaming or very carefully with fine emery cloth and oil for very shallow pitting. But in most cases, especially with seacocks, there is ample area to give a good seal, so a little pitting is OK.
 

Dave3818

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Thanks again for your advice. It worked a treat. I note the comments re grinding paste, so I have cleaned it and resealed it as you suggested with waterproof grease.

Dave
 

Dave3818

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Re: DON\'T TRY THIS AFLOAT!!!

Mirelle,

Thanks again for your advice. It worked a treat. I note the comments re grinding paste. I have cleaned it up and resealed it as you suggested with water proof grease.

Dave
 

Dave3818

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Re: DON\'T TRY THIS AFLOAT!!!

Thanks very much for the advice. The method suggested by Mirelle worked a treat. I have just cleaned it and then resealed with water proof grease. Thanks again.

Dave
 
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