lagoon
Active Member
seacock\'s
In general how many seacock's would one find on a pleasure boat ?
In general how many seacock's would one find on a pleasure boat ?
seacock's
- Thread starter lagoon
- Start date
OGITD
Well-Known Member
Re: seacock\'s
1 Sink outlet.
2 Toilet inlet and outlet (if fitted wit a toilet).
3 Engine seawater cooling (if fitted with an inboard engine with raw water cooling).
Four in total.
1 Sink outlet.
2 Toilet inlet and outlet (if fitted wit a toilet).
3 Engine seawater cooling (if fitted with an inboard engine with raw water cooling).
Four in total.
tillergirl
Well-Known Member
Re: seacock\'s
And cockpit drains if you have them
And cockpit drains if you have them
pvb
Well-Known Member
Re: seacock\'s
[ QUOTE ]
1 Sink outlet.
2 Toilet inlet and outlet (if fitted wit a toilet).
3 Engine seawater cooling (if fitted with an inboard engine with raw water cooling).
Four in total.
[/ QUOTE ]Not forgetting one for the heads handbasin. And often 2 more for the self-draining cockpit.
[ QUOTE ]
1 Sink outlet.
2 Toilet inlet and outlet (if fitted wit a toilet).
3 Engine seawater cooling (if fitted with an inboard engine with raw water cooling).
Four in total.
[/ QUOTE ]Not forgetting one for the heads handbasin. And often 2 more for the self-draining cockpit.
S
Skyva_2
Guest
Re: seacock\'s
Shower if fitted; anchor locker drain. There is probably a sink in the heads and the galley.
Up to 7! Scary thought....
Shower if fitted; anchor locker drain. There is probably a sink in the heads and the galley.
Up to 7! Scary thought....
OGITD
Well-Known Member
Re: seacock\'s
It all depends on the size and complexity of the boat.
It all depends on the size and complexity of the boat.
Abigail
Well-Known Member
Re: seacock\'s
Ho hum - on ours (liveaboard, 40')
Engine exhaust
Cockpit drain (only one as the drains join into a Y which is then one outlet
Raw water intake
Fridge intake
Heads (2 - in and out)
Sink in heads
sink in galley
shower drain
Our anchor locker and deck lockers are behind water tight bulkheads and don't have seacocks on the drains.
9! ouch ...
Old-Glow is right - depends on your boat.
Ho hum - on ours (liveaboard, 40')
Engine exhaust
Cockpit drain (only one as the drains join into a Y which is then one outlet
Raw water intake
Fridge intake
Heads (2 - in and out)
Sink in heads
sink in galley
shower drain
Our anchor locker and deck lockers are behind water tight bulkheads and don't have seacocks on the drains.
9! ouch ...
Old-Glow is right - depends on your boat.
lagoon
Active Member
Re: seacock\'s
Can they be troublesome ?
Can they be troublesome ?
Abigail
Well-Known Member
Re: seacock\'s
Are you asking because you're having troubles or merely nightmares?
When we bought our boat we were v nervous about some of them because the bronze was going pink and we knew they were not v good. In other words, if we had had to close them in a hurry we weren't absolutely certain they would close rather than break off. And when indeed we did haul out and do the work one did exactly that. Also, at the time the engine and fridge intake shared a hole and a seacock. We decided we'd rather have two holes but seperate secocks and that's what we've done.
it is important to keep them serviced (annually) so they turn easily. And just keep an eye on them occasionally. There have been previous discussions and I'm sure other people will have views. We also do have plastic bungs tied on to each of them.
But that's it. They certainly shouldn't be leaking or weeping or seized up. But once sorted there's no 'trouble'.
Are you asking because you're having troubles or merely nightmares?
When we bought our boat we were v nervous about some of them because the bronze was going pink and we knew they were not v good. In other words, if we had had to close them in a hurry we weren't absolutely certain they would close rather than break off. And when indeed we did haul out and do the work one did exactly that. Also, at the time the engine and fridge intake shared a hole and a seacock. We decided we'd rather have two holes but seperate secocks and that's what we've done.
it is important to keep them serviced (annually) so they turn easily. And just keep an eye on them occasionally. There have been previous discussions and I'm sure other people will have views. We also do have plastic bungs tied on to each of them.
But that's it. They certainly shouldn't be leaking or weeping or seized up. But once sorted there's no 'trouble'.
lagoon
Active Member
Re: seacock\'s
[ QUOTE ]
Are you asking because you're having troubles or merely nightmares?
[/ QUOTE ]
i dont have a boat as of yet /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif im trying to learn as much as i can about them . From what i gather seacock's are a one way valve ?
cheers
[ QUOTE ]
Are you asking because you're having troubles or merely nightmares?
[/ QUOTE ]
i dont have a boat as of yet /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif im trying to learn as much as i can about them . From what i gather seacock's are a one way valve ?
cheers
pvb
Well-Known Member
Oh dear....
No, seacocks are an on/off valve. When open, fluid can flow in either direction. Many people see this as a weak point, and insist on closing seacocks when they're not actually needed, because they fear that the pipework will magically fail and the boat will be flooded and sink. Unfortunately, cockpit drains need to be left open, so I reckon if you can leave some open you can leave them all open. So I don't now routinely close any seacocks apart from the heads outlet when sailing (and I operate all seacocks every few months just to make sure they're not seized).
No, seacocks are an on/off valve. When open, fluid can flow in either direction. Many people see this as a weak point, and insist on closing seacocks when they're not actually needed, because they fear that the pipework will magically fail and the boat will be flooded and sink. Unfortunately, cockpit drains need to be left open, so I reckon if you can leave some open you can leave them all open. So I don't now routinely close any seacocks apart from the heads outlet when sailing (and I operate all seacocks every few months just to make sure they're not seized).
richardabeattie
Well-Known Member
Re: seacock\'s
Alas no! When you open them the water is free to go either way.
Alas no! When you open them the water is free to go either way.
Orla
Well-Known Member
Re: seacock\'s
WOW 15
Fwd head = 1 out, 1 in, 1 holding tank out, 1 breather above water line.
Same in Aft heads. Thats 8.
Engine cooling in 1, Exhaust out 1.
Cockpit drains 2.
Heater exhaust out 1.
Showers, sinks etc go to grey tank with 1 out.
Sea water in for wash down pump 1.
15 seacocks, jings crivins help ma bob.
(All big strong bronz ones)
/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
WOW 15
Fwd head = 1 out, 1 in, 1 holding tank out, 1 breather above water line.
Same in Aft heads. Thats 8.
Engine cooling in 1, Exhaust out 1.
Cockpit drains 2.
Heater exhaust out 1.
Showers, sinks etc go to grey tank with 1 out.
Sea water in for wash down pump 1.
15 seacocks, jings crivins help ma bob.
(All big strong bronz ones)
/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
samwise
Well-Known Member
Re: seacock\'s
Being picky, the plural of seacock is seacocks, no apostrophe needed. Re the query, I guess the answer must be that the fewer holes in your boat, the better.
Being picky, the plural of seacock is seacocks, no apostrophe needed. Re the query, I guess the answer must be that the fewer holes in your boat, the better.
tillergirl
Well-Known Member
Re: seacock\'s
And there are three main 'types'. The traditional 'proper' seacock is like these http://www.blakes-lavac-taylors.co.uk/blakes_seacocks.htm although there have been other makes in the past. These are properly serviceable and dismantlable. Usually you grease them once a year and if a little bit in poor condition, can be a DIY 'regrind' simply by putting a lit of valve grinding paste between the cone and the body and gently rotating until sound surfaces are restored.
The second type is the ball valve - generally a stainless steel or chromed ball in the 'pipe' of the valve that is turned to open or close. Arguably there is no real maintenance that you can do on these but some suggest spraying teflon lubricant or similar inside the valve from time to time. Generally these work ok if turned on and off reasonable frequently. There is an issue over the material from which the bodies are made: brass is a no no as it has poor resistance to corrosion but they can be obtained at greater cost in true bronzes and similar 'better' material. They are distiguished from the third type in having a straight handle.
The third type is the gate valve and most seem to agree that these should have no place on a boat. The valve operates by a wheeled handled which screws down a flat disc to seal the 'pipe' of the valve. They are not favoured on a boat as with corrosion the connection between handle and the disc can break. Also the disc is more prone to jamming. These are commonly found in domestic plumbing. Again they are commonly available in brass but also can be found in true bronze.
Both ball and gate valves screw onto a skin fitting - bit like the tank flange on your domestic cold water tank in the left - The metals used in skin fitting and the valve should be the same to aviod corrosion.
The third type is the cheapest - of course, next that of the ball valve in a true bronze and finally the 'Blakes' type is the most expensive. Generally you will find the Blakes type on sea toilets. Engine 'seacocks' can use a different arrangement so as to incorporate a strainer. The common modern version would be a skin fitting, good quality ball valve and a pipe to a plastic strainer. Older boats may have a bronze arrangement where there is a stop cock and strainer combined - TG has a stop cock strainer combined manufacturered by that well known company, the Southend Engineering Company - yes I'm being ironic but I guess they went out of business because their products are still fine after 45 years! There were other makes of course - Stuart, Simpson Lawrence etc. The great thing about these is that they are easy to clear from inside the boat if blocked. I can take the top off mine and prod a long screwdriver down to free any weed (or Jellyfish as I had once) blcoking the inlet.
An old fuddyduddy would say that the Blakes type is the only seacock - the others are valves - but good quality ball valves are fine.
Don't want to open the door about the different types of metal but don't be fooled by the term manganese bronze - it's brass not bronze. Silicon or aluminium bronze is the business.
And there are three main 'types'. The traditional 'proper' seacock is like these http://www.blakes-lavac-taylors.co.uk/blakes_seacocks.htm although there have been other makes in the past. These are properly serviceable and dismantlable. Usually you grease them once a year and if a little bit in poor condition, can be a DIY 'regrind' simply by putting a lit of valve grinding paste between the cone and the body and gently rotating until sound surfaces are restored.
The second type is the ball valve - generally a stainless steel or chromed ball in the 'pipe' of the valve that is turned to open or close. Arguably there is no real maintenance that you can do on these but some suggest spraying teflon lubricant or similar inside the valve from time to time. Generally these work ok if turned on and off reasonable frequently. There is an issue over the material from which the bodies are made: brass is a no no as it has poor resistance to corrosion but they can be obtained at greater cost in true bronzes and similar 'better' material. They are distiguished from the third type in having a straight handle.
The third type is the gate valve and most seem to agree that these should have no place on a boat. The valve operates by a wheeled handled which screws down a flat disc to seal the 'pipe' of the valve. They are not favoured on a boat as with corrosion the connection between handle and the disc can break. Also the disc is more prone to jamming. These are commonly found in domestic plumbing. Again they are commonly available in brass but also can be found in true bronze.
Both ball and gate valves screw onto a skin fitting - bit like the tank flange on your domestic cold water tank in the left - The metals used in skin fitting and the valve should be the same to aviod corrosion.
The third type is the cheapest - of course, next that of the ball valve in a true bronze and finally the 'Blakes' type is the most expensive. Generally you will find the Blakes type on sea toilets. Engine 'seacocks' can use a different arrangement so as to incorporate a strainer. The common modern version would be a skin fitting, good quality ball valve and a pipe to a plastic strainer. Older boats may have a bronze arrangement where there is a stop cock and strainer combined - TG has a stop cock strainer combined manufacturered by that well known company, the Southend Engineering Company - yes I'm being ironic but I guess they went out of business because their products are still fine after 45 years! There were other makes of course - Stuart, Simpson Lawrence etc. The great thing about these is that they are easy to clear from inside the boat if blocked. I can take the top off mine and prod a long screwdriver down to free any weed (or Jellyfish as I had once) blcoking the inlet.
An old fuddyduddy would say that the Blakes type is the only seacock - the others are valves - but good quality ball valves are fine.
Don't want to open the door about the different types of metal but don't be fooled by the term manganese bronze - it's brass not bronze. Silicon or aluminium bronze is the business.
KenMcCulloch
Well-Known Member
Re: seacock\'s
Very good advice above.
Very good advice above.
rogerthebodger
Well-Known Member
Re: seacock\'s
You also need to determine if they are above the waterline or below. If above the waterline if the seacock fails no problem and can be maintained without taking the boat out of the water. If below the waterline more of a problem.
On my new yacht I have only 4 below the waterline but 10 including 2 engine exhausts above the waterline, 14 in total
You also need to determine if they are above the waterline or below. If above the waterline if the seacock fails no problem and can be maintained without taking the boat out of the water. If below the waterline more of a problem.
On my new yacht I have only 4 below the waterline but 10 including 2 engine exhausts above the waterline, 14 in total
dombuckley
Well-Known Member
Re: seacock\'s
It’s your first boat: best advice would be to keep it small, keep it simple. The smaller the boat, the fewer the seacocks: a small river cruiser with a chemical loo may only have one below the waterline, for the engine cooling water. A similarly sized yacht, with an outboard motor may not have one at all. Double the size of the boat, and you more than double the trouble: in terms of seacocks, I surveyed a 42 footer last month which had 17 valves below the waterline and another 22 fittings above.
All in all, don’t be too ambitious: when starting out, it’s far better to have a little boat to potter around inland waters and estuaries and get the feel for this boating lark, gaining in confidence until you feel ready for a larger boat and further horizons, rather than getting a larger boat straight away and not have the confidence to get out of the marina. We all know boats that just get used as floating “weekend cottages” and never go anywhere.
Best of luck - it's a whole new world out there.
It’s your first boat: best advice would be to keep it small, keep it simple. The smaller the boat, the fewer the seacocks: a small river cruiser with a chemical loo may only have one below the waterline, for the engine cooling water. A similarly sized yacht, with an outboard motor may not have one at all. Double the size of the boat, and you more than double the trouble: in terms of seacocks, I surveyed a 42 footer last month which had 17 valves below the waterline and another 22 fittings above.
All in all, don’t be too ambitious: when starting out, it’s far better to have a little boat to potter around inland waters and estuaries and get the feel for this boating lark, gaining in confidence until you feel ready for a larger boat and further horizons, rather than getting a larger boat straight away and not have the confidence to get out of the marina. We all know boats that just get used as floating “weekend cottages” and never go anywhere.
Best of luck - it's a whole new world out there.
dombuckley
Well-Known Member
Re: Oh dear....
Not magic – just straight-forward chafing. A few years ago, I had to leave my old 6 tonner on a rather exposed mooring on the Tamar for a few months. It was a particularly stormy autumn and when I came back, I found that the constant movement had caused the tie-ups holding the cockpit drain hoses up to part, letting the port drain hose down and into contact with the jubilee clip securing the exhaust hose to the riser. The edge of the clip had then sawed about 2/3 of the way through the hose. If I had not shut the seacocks and put a cover over the cockpit when I left, she would have sunk.
Coincidentally, as I finished fixing that, I looked up to see that the boat on the next mooring was getting rather close. I looked over the side to find that the (professionally-laid) mooring pennant had chafed through: it had parted just 30mins after I arrived back after 4 months away. Collision was averted by the dear old Stuart Turner, which fired up on the first push of the button (after 4 months).
The boat’s guardian angel must have been working overtime!
Not magic – just straight-forward chafing. A few years ago, I had to leave my old 6 tonner on a rather exposed mooring on the Tamar for a few months. It was a particularly stormy autumn and when I came back, I found that the constant movement had caused the tie-ups holding the cockpit drain hoses up to part, letting the port drain hose down and into contact with the jubilee clip securing the exhaust hose to the riser. The edge of the clip had then sawed about 2/3 of the way through the hose. If I had not shut the seacocks and put a cover over the cockpit when I left, she would have sunk.
Coincidentally, as I finished fixing that, I looked up to see that the boat on the next mooring was getting rather close. I looked over the side to find that the (professionally-laid) mooring pennant had chafed through: it had parted just 30mins after I arrived back after 4 months away. Collision was averted by the dear old Stuart Turner, which fired up on the first push of the button (after 4 months).
The boat’s guardian angel must have been working overtime!