Seacocks - to replace or not?

[madian2]

We have 2 seacocks above the waterline - 1 for the shower drain and 1 for a bilge pump.
Both are difficult to access and are very rusty and seized.
We are planning to liveaboard with a possible Atlantic circuit.
We are reluctant to replace them as it would involve cutting away woodwork to access them, it will be expensive if we pay someone, and haven't got the time ourselves. They have probably been open for the last 30 years!

The question is - would forumites replace them or leave them?

Does anyone else have seacocks above the waterline - and if so, do you shut them when underway?

 

[pvb]

Does anyone else have seacocks above the waterline - and if so, do you shut them when underway?

Yes, and no.

 

[tillergirl]

Yes and no - but then I've never been near the Atlantic when it might be yes and yes.

 

[prv]

In your position I'd replace them. Hell, in my position I'd replace them, and I'm not going any further than the South Coast.

I don't routinely close any seacocks, above or below the waterline, apart from exercising them from time to time to prevent seizing. But I'd want to know that I could if I needed to.

Then again, forty years ago my grandad had his stern gland disintegrate and he "fixed" it with a piece cut from an old seaboot and a jubilee clip around the shaft. A few days later, with no further repairs, he set off across the Atlantic. My dad occasionally uses the phrase "we'll fix that in Antigua" to refer to repair or maintenance work unreasonably deferred. The point being that different people have different ideas about maintenance, and my grandad was eventually done in many years later by complications of a dodgy French oyster rather than his pervasive mechanical bodgery.

Pete

 

[bikerbill]

I am assuming that the seacocks won't turn in either direction? Like prv, I don't close my seacocks either, then again I don't venture too far. However, I would definitely consider changing them. Sometimes the thought of removing panels may seem daunting at first and what damage will occur by removing them. I suppose it's only wood and easily replaced if you have good joinery skills. I had a similar problem with a knackered seacock on a cabin cruiser. I eventually used an angle grinder very carefully to remove the outer lip of the thru hull fitting, tapped it through then replaced with new parts. An easy job that took all day

 

[Len Ingalls]

If one did fail(broke off from rust,etc),& your access is that bad,what would you do at sea? Are they under,or near water surface,when heeled?
Perhaps you would be better off installing access hatches in existing woodwork,& replacing cocks before it happens offshore.
Cheers/ Len

 

[V1701]

I guess the worst that could happen is the bilge pump one fails, water comes in through it & you have to bail any water that comes in from there (& anywhere else) manually. I'd put it on the list of things to do as soon as is practicable but I don't think it would stop me from going...

 

[Sailfree]

What type are they. Modern Seacocks - even those fitted to HRs corrode and are likely to fail between 15-20 yrs. look up previous posts plenty of info on here.

Replaced all mine at 9yrs for corrosion resistant ones and I only do coastal hopping and X channel.

There are old sailors and bold sailors but no old bold sailors.

 

[Stemar]

I might not replace them before moving on board, but I'd definitely want them working before heading anywhere more than a few hours from land.

My first action would be to give them a good welt with a hammer, protecting the metal with a block of wood. If they don't break off then, they're unlikely to in the near future. If they do, you're glad it happened under controlled conditions.

BikerBill's suggestion of cutting off the external lip and punching them through from the outside is a good one, but I'd also want to sort out internal access a la Len Ingalls. The idea of not being able to get at any hole on my hull in a hurry gives me the shivvers - and I mostly just pootle around the Solent!

 

[ghostlymoron]

If you can get at them to operate them, you have enough access to fit replacements I would have thought. Cut the external flange off with an angle grinder and punch it through.
I think the fact that you are asking the question shows that you know the answer - replace them! Especially for an ocean crossing.
Incidentally, neither of my bilge pump exits has a seacock, nor has my sink.

 

[macd]

Cut the external flange off with an angle grinder and punch it through.

That's one common method, preferred by many. Another is to plug the hole with wood (to create a centre) and cut out the skin fitting with a hole-cutter. There's a very recent thread on the ins and outs of this.

Agree with others that these need attending to. They may be OK for another 20 years, but would you bet your boat on it? And would your insurer?
Depending on the height above waterline, a valve may not be necessary: just a straightforward barbed skin fitting.

And what's all this talk of rust? Do tell me they're not iron.

 

[prv]

And what's all this talk of rust? Do tell me they're not iron.

Could be gate valves with steel shafts and hand-wheels, perhaps? Even more important to replace them if so.

Pete

 

[macd]

Could be gate valves with steel shafts and hand-wheels, perhaps? Even more important to replace them if so.

Pete

Dead on.

 

[GrahamM376]

As others have said, replace them. As ghostlymoron says, through-hulls can be cut off from the outside and, if difficult to get a spanner on the nuts, consider fitting TruDesign composite through-hulls which can be epoxied in without backing nuts.

 

[Daydream believer]

I do not wish to spoil the dream but!!!
I think that the fact you have asked suggests that you really already know the answer
Then one might query that if you cannot do it yourself then perhaps you should ask if you are you self sufficient enough to do the trip
Or one might query whether you can actually afford to go if you cannot afford to get it done for you
These are things that need doing & for those planning a long trip should just be a simple maintenance matter

 

[madian2]

Could be gate valves with steel shafts and hand-wheels, perhaps? Even more important to replace them if so.

Pete

Thanks to everyone for replies.
They are indeed gate valves with steel shafts and hand wheels and are completely rusted up.
I suppose we knew we had to replace them......!
Another job for the list!

 

[vyv_cox]

Thanks to everyone for replies.
They are indeed gate valves with steel shafts and hand wheels and are completely rusted up.
I suppose we knew we had to replace them......!
Another job for the list!

I suggest you should not even think about a direct replacement. Gate valves rarely work well on a boat, the gate slide becomes fouled up quite quickly and quite often the large amount of effort required to open them results in a fracture of the stem, so the valve is permanently closed. It is also not obvious whether they are open or closed. Replace with ball valves, far cheaper and more practical on a boat. For above water a plated brass valve and fittings may well be good enough but fortunately nowadays DZR ones are only slightly more expensive.

 

[jakeroyd]

As many have suggested it's maybe not so hard to remove them as you might think.
On mine i backed the nut off as far as i could before it locked solid on the threadlock used to install them.
This gave me about 10mm clearance between the hull and the flange on the outside of the hull.

I then part cut and part broke the flange off with a hacksaw and molegrips.
It was easy cos it's very freecutting and easier to break than you think.

Then it was easy to push the skin fitting inside.

I replaced with Marelon filled resin valves that do not corrode.