Seacocks - Loctite 275 or 277 or ???

As I warned in a previous thread I used Loctite 275. It set before the ball valve was fully home, in under 2 minutes. It took two of us, a heat gun over an hour to remove. Was lucky I didn't scrap both the thru hull and valve in process.
 
smithy said:
As I warned in a previous thread I used Loctite 275. It set before the ball valve was fully home, in under 2 minutes. It took two of us, a heat gun over an hour to remove. Was lucky I didn't scrap both the thru hull and valve in process.
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Loctite 572 for metal, slow cure thread sealant


Suitable for coarse metal threads
Ideal where slow cure is required for adjusting the alignment of fittings
 
I worked in plumbing for years; PTFE is fine for domestic use, and will work on parallel not just tapered connections.

I would only use it on a boat seacock thread as a minor aid, certainly not the ultimate seal.

For the same reason I wouldn't use Loctite, I worked on military fighters for 14 years and Loctite 290 was the ' never to move again ' stuff, 221 was the ' may have to come apart in future ' variant.

Neither was a sealant in the same way as Sikaflex, which is what I'd use for bedding in a seacock outer parts; the inners should do the job themselves when tight, though as I say a bit of PTFE may well help.
 
nigelmercier said:
I meant I'm confused about the equivalence of PU40 and Sikaflex.
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I believe that PU40 is a suitable replacement for Sikaflex 291. Sikaflex 292 is a higher modulus version of it, giving a stronger film than 291. I have some difficulty in imagining a situation on a boat where a high strength sealant would be needed, if it is assumed that the bolting provides the strength while the sealant keeps the water out. I'm not saying there are situations where an adhesive/sealant is the only fixing method but there cannot be many.
 
vyv_cox said:
I believe that PU40 is a suitable replacement for Sikaflex 291. Sikaflex 292 is a higher modulus version of it, giving a stronger film than 291. I have some difficulty in imagining a situation on a boat where a high strength sealant would be needed, if it is assumed that the bolting provides the strength while the sealant keeps the water out. I'm not saying there are situations where an adhesive/sealant is the only fixing method but there cannot be many.
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even hemp & paste would work
 
" I'm not saying there are situations where an adhesive/sealant is the only fixing method but there cannot be many. "
vyv_cox



I once stuck the sole of my boat shoe back on with Sikaflex stuff, and it is not bad for patches on an Avon.
 
nigelmercier said:
I meant I'm confused about the equivalence of PU40 and Sikaflex.
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I said 292 because that's what I had an open tube of last year and used. This year I bought some PU40, as the Sika had gone hard. Sika 291 would do equally well.

Using the Sika/PU40 it gave plenty of time to adjust things, and the next day they were solid, with the handles at the right angle. To tight an installation to use backnuts effectively - no room for spanners. Having put on new bronze skin fittings and seacocks I'm hoping never to have to undo them.
 
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