Seacock stuck open

A

alan

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I have a friend who has just put his boat back in the water after the annaul haul-out, and he finds that the seacock on the oulet of the WC is stuck open. This is on a Beneteau 311; and I think the seacock is bronze (it's metal anyway).
Anybody suggest any methods of freeing it up. BTW, it was OK a couple of weeks ago when the boat was on dry land.

I have suggested gently tapping it to see if that helps.

Any other suggestions would be very welcome ......

Thanks in advance.

Alan.
 
difficult to understand the cause of the problem - and therefore the solution.

if it was tested whilst out (to be that definitive that it was OK) then presumably it was also greased etc

any possiblility that it has a foreign object stuck in it from outside? even this though would tend to permit restricted movement on the handle.
 
What type of sea cock is it? Blakes? ball valve? or gate valve?

If a Blakes (although unlikely that Beneteau would use them) slacken off the two nuts underneath the top plate and back the two bolts about one turn then tap the handle to jar the cone free. Once the cone is free hold the handle and cone assemble down into the valve body and remove the two bolts completely then pull the handle and cone assembly out of the valve body and quickly put in a taper wooden plug to keep the water out. Clean the cone section, smear with waterproof grease and refit by removing the wooden plug and quickly pushing the cone section back into the valve body. Replace the two bolts (through the retainer plate and into the valve body) finger tight ensuring the cone still turns and nip up the two locking nuts underneath. Finally pump the bilges or shower sump to remove any water that may have leaked in. Cleaning the valve body can be done with the boat afloat but you are liable to leak in a fair amount of water during the process so I will not go into that. If the valve works leave it alone until next lift out and reseat the cone with grinding paste at that time.

If a ball valve replace the valve similarly if a gate valve - they are not worth the trouble to repair for all they cost. When removing the valve from the through hull fitting grip the lower lock nut to prevent the fitting turning when slackening the valve. Do check below the valve as there should be another shouldered nut there locking the valve in place - once that nut is slackened the valve should come off relatively easily. When slackening the shouldered nut located directly below the valve, hold the valve not the lower nut which is against the hull.

Simple. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
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"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
 
It would be best to have the boat put in some slings and held while the cock is messed about with.
If it is not a Gunmetal one or Genuine bronze one (Most unlikely) then it may cause problems.
Once the boat is safe from sinking, Strip the cock and re-grease it all.
Or replace it with a gunmetal, Genuine Blakes or genuine bronze one.
Not one of the ones that you now get in the chandelery and not one that has disimilar metals inside it, For the screw thread and or ball etc.
Check all fittings for going pink.
Also make sure the bolts ( If it is a Blakes type) that hold the valve on, Have not disolved between the nuts and the bolt head where they pass through the hull.
Hope this helps
Joe
 
O ye of little faith! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
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"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
 
No, nothing has been done to it. and yes ..................... he should have at least checked it just before putting it back in the water!!!!!

I would guess from look ing at it that it is the "ball" type (it's definitely not a Blakes - far too expensive for Beneteau!!).

Alan.
 
decent 2" ball valve €10~€15? Change it out for a new one although I have never heard of a ball valve sticking under the circumstances you describe.
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"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
 
Probably just sticking due to a barnacle or part of one between the moving surfaces. Try flushing down the heads the oil from sardines, the oil lubricates the entire system for several weeks and may even free your valve. If you have to strip down the valve put a bung in the outside which does not impede the valve or even safer beach the boat if its a bilge keeler.

You could also try covering the valve with a cloth and shocking the valve with hot water, you can avoid shocking the hull by having a cold water hose running over the internal hull surface while you administer the hot water to the valve.

Good luck.
Trevor
 
The chances are that the ball valve has stuck and will simply shear off as happened to me last year just after I had relaunched following a mid season scrub. All seacocks are shut each week and it was just slightly stiffer than it should have been.
Cost me a lift as in my case the valve was half open and was the week before my holiday!
I have now used a better valve as it is only slightly more than the cheap crap.
 
\"I have a friend\"...

OK, tell your "friend" to look and see if it has genuine Blakes Sea cocks fitted.

If so they have a grease nipple. Get a good quality grease gun and flexible hose, filled with sea cock grease. You will do no better than Blakes original but any waterproof lithium based grease will do.

Apply grease under pressure and pray the gate isn't oriented too close to the gap in the cone.

If grease pumps easily, this technique has failed as the grease is heading straight to sea without being forced between the mating surfaces of the valve.

If it doesn't pump, or pumps only slowly, keep going and gently work the seacock lever to free it.
 
Thanks for that idea Trevor; I did also think about injecting some oil from outside the boat with a large syringe .......... it's still warm enough to swim here !!

Thanks, everyone for the ideas. I think if we have to change the valve then we will bung the through hole fitting from the outside. The only reservation I have is actually changing the valve ....... on a Ben 311 it is inside the cabinet under the heads washbasin and you just cant get two hands in (easily) at the same time!!!
An orang-utang would be useful as he has long strong arms and just might be able to get to the valve.

Thanks again for the help.

Alan.
 
Yep, that would cause it - I just ain't come across anyone putting HCs down the heads. Must have been one wild curry! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
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"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
 
hello
the 331 has ball valves the same as my 351, coated yellow metal, ( i purposelly havent classified it) the seals are inert so oil, mineral, animal or vegetable wont hurt them, i had a small prob with one and squirted wd40 into the open end and worked the handle open and closed a few times, prob solved, i must also say that we open and close the valves every time we go on and off the boat and also when we go to sea, continuous use helps to keep them free. carefully put a bit of pressure on the handle back and forth to see if you can get a small amount of movement, be carefull tho because it is easy to snap the shaft end or round the square in the handle. dont tap them, that works on a taper not on a ball. hot water is good, dont worry about protecting the hull, the area in contact with the sea will cool it quicker than you need to worry about.
stu
 
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