Seacock question

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Crinan12

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Hi
Do those sea cocks look okay? In photo 1 the red arrow points to a bit of my seacock (heads inlet )which I can wiggle about - photo 2 shows it more clearly maybe. Is this normal? I would have thought it shouldn't move. Also Is the nut the yellow arrow points to in photo 1 in the correct place?I would have thought it should be further down as in photo 3?

I've attached a few other photos - does everything look okay? I've no reason to suspect much is wrong but just wanted to check. The inside of the cone bit looks very rough. Is that anything to worry about ?

I did have a small leak from the heads outlet seacock - just a drip - what's the typical problem - does it usually just need tightened up ?
Thanks in advance

Douglas
 

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They look like Blakes to me. I would be tempted to remove the cones and give them a damn good clean. You can use a grinding paste on them to remove small amounts of pitting which may be easier to see once they've been cleaned. The yellow nut in your first photo is a locking nut. You screw down the bolt to tighten the cone in it's housing but you should still be able to move the handle by hand without too much force. If you search in this forum for Blakes there are a number of threads with good guidance. You do not need to overtighten the locking but. Get a decent waterpoof grease, I use Blake's but others here will have other advice. SLAKES SEACOCKS -OWNERS INSTRUCTION ... - Equipment
 
In my experience of a 30 year old boat your Blakes seacocks looks normal, however I would not expect the plate that holds the cone shaped body in to be loose. once greased and reassembled that plate will be tightened down with the bolts and nuts to be just tight enough for the valve to be turned by hand using its normal hand leaver. Note however I find tightening the bolts is only just a bit tighter than hand tight. The Nuts are locking nuts as the body is threaded.
 
It may be just the photo, but the bolt and plate look cock eyed in this photo. The bolt actually looks bent. As I say. it may be just the photo, but I thought I'd mention it. As mentioned above they need a good service and crud removal.
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One thing I would say is this. There does seem to be a bit of corrosion. If I were you I'd be tempted to check the four through hull securing bolts. If they've been in there 30 years they need looking at. I say that because I had 40+ years in yacht construction/renovation etc, and I've seen those bolts look like fuse wire, although the head and thread look fine on external inspection. People think because they're phosphor-bronze they'll remain as good as, but that's not always the case. Especially in these days of errant electric currents in marinas etc. If it were my boat I'd check them. Hap'orth of tar and all that..

Here's a good previous thread on this very subject. Well worth a read..

Dismantled Blakes Seacock - what next ?
 
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saxonpirate said:
It may be just the photo, but the bolt and plate look cock eyed in this photo. The bolt actually looks bent. As I say. it may be just the photo, but I thought I'd mention it. As mentioned above they need a good service and crud removal.
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One thing I would say is this. There does seem to be a bit of corrosion. If I were you I'd be tempted to check the four through hull securing bolts. If they've been in there 30 years they need looking at. I say that because I had 40+ years in yacht construction/renovation etc, and I've seen those bolts look like fuse wire, although the head and thread look fine on external inspection. People think because they're phosphor-bronze they'll remain as good as, but that's not always the case. Especially in these days of errant electric currents in marinas etc. If it were my boat I'd check them. Hap'orth of tar and all that..

Here's a good previous thread on this very subject. Well worth a read..

Dismantled Blakes Seacock - what next ?
Click to expand...
Thanks Saxon
Think it is straight, just the photo making it look like that
How do I actually check the bolt- do I need to take them out?
Here is a better close up photo. Is this what is called 'pitting' - I need to use the grinding paste to smooth this out ?
Ta
 

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Crinan12 said:
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Thanks Saxon
Think it is straight, just the photo making it look like that
How do I actually check the bolt- do I need to take them out?
Click to expand...

Surely if you have removed the cone you have already taken the bolts out. Simple enough then to look at them to see if they are bent or not.

When you refit them make sure you tighten them evenly so that the keep plate stays square to the valve.
 
VicS said:
Surely if you have removed the cone you have already taken the bolts out. Simple enough then to look at them to see if they are bent or not.

When you refit them make sure you tighten them evenly so that the keep plate stays square to the valve.
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I think saxon was menaing the 4 bolts that secure the through hill fitting rather than the 2 that secure the lever bit
Cheers
 
Yes.. grinding paste will do that. I doubt if you'll remove all the pitting, but get it as clean as you can.

Try to clean the thread on the four securing bolts with a wire brush. They actually look like stainless, which will probably mean they've been changed. Take a photo and post it. Do this before carrying out the instructions below.

Re the bolts. There are four through hull bolts. Try to remove one first. Undo the nut until the thread is just below the nuts surface, this will protect the end of the thread. If you can get some assistance it would be handy to have someone else on the outside with a block of wood to brace against the outside plate. Get yourself a brass drift if possible and tap the loose nut first to see if there's movement in the bolt. What ever you do don't continue if the test bolt doesn't move.

If it doesn't move and you feel nervous about continuing, stop, and maybe think about getting someone to assist you that's done this sort of thing before. Seacocks are not things to be messed with if you are unsure. Its always difficult advising someone remotely, especially on a job like this.
 
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A 'before and after' of my first attempt at grinding my five Blakes seacocks into smoother turning and less weepy fettle. Took me an hour on the first one and half that time by the third.
The general condition is similar to my 40 year old seacocks before I cleaned them up. Didn't draw the four mounting bolts through the hull though. Wish I had taken the time to. ?
 
Hi . Here is a cleaned up bolt. What do you think?

Also does g3 farecla work to re grind seacocks? I have some on the boat already
Thanks
 

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differentroads said:
View attachment 85827
A 'before and after' of my first attempt at grinding my five Blakes seacocks into smoother turning and less weepy fettle. Took me an hour on the first one and half that time by the third.
The general condition is similar to my 40 year old seacocks before I cleaned them up. Didn't draw the four mounting bolts through the hull though. Wish I had taken the time to. ?
Click to expand...

o_O
It may be the colour reproduction but that looks totally de-zincified. If so, it needs replaced and possibly the reason identified.

@vyv_cox would be the best to advise.
 
ctva said:
o_O
It may be the colour reproduction but that looks totally de-zincified. If so, it needs replaced and possibly the reason identified.

@vyv_cox would be the best to advise.
Click to expand...
Hmm, yeah, pretty pink in real life too. Not as alarmingly pink as the photo if I remember correctly, but noticeable even to my untutored eye. Didn't know enough at the time to check more thoroughly as I thought 'they're Blakes and there's plenty of meat on them'. I'll be pulling them out next winter.
Appreciate the advice.
 
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