Seacock prob

PabloPicasso

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Toilet outlet through hull seacock only turns half the distance I remember it doing last year. In closed position I cannot pump out. In apparently partially open I can for number ones, and I'm too scared to risk it with 2s. Any clues as to what might be going on without diving or lifting the boat.
 
Toilet outlet through hull seacock only turns half the distance I remember it doing last year. In closed position I cannot pump out. In apparently partially open I can for number ones, and I'm too scared to risk it with 2s. Any clues as to what might be going on without diving or lifting the boat.
What type of seacock? Half is what, how many degrees?
you could take the hose off to check
 
It depends on the design of seacock. My Blakes Seacocks are reliable but I did have a wee problem the year I fitted the handle 180 degrees out. Could yours be 90 degrees off perhaps? If this were the case, you'd not be able to open it at all, however far you turned it.

If you have a Ball cock, it's possible you have an obstruction.

Either way, to solve the problem you need to haul out, even if its only for a tide, so you can examine it and solve the problem for good and all.
 
It's a ball valve, not blakes type.

I could understand an obstruction stopping it closing, but not stopping it open?
 
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It's a ball valve, not blakes type.

I could understand an obstruction stopping it closing, but not stopping it open?

It should turn 90 degrees. Quite probably it is calcium build up that is restricting it turning. Of course the risk with brute force is that the skin fitting is partly de-zinc'd and can't take it.

I replaced one a couple of years ago yet with a bit of brute force after replacement I got it working ok. Turned out to be bronze too, so would've lasted a while longer if I hadn't replaced it. I took the handle off and used an adjustable spanner to turn it.
 
It should turn 90 degrees. Quite probably it is calcium build up that is restricting it turning. Of course the risk with brute force is that the skin fitting is partly de-zinc'd and can't take it.

I replaced one a couple of years ago yet with a bit of brute force after replacement I got it working ok. Turned out to be bronze too, so would've lasted a while longer if I hadn't replaced it. I took the handle off and used an adjustable spanner to turn it.


Yes, it should turn 90 degrees but is likely only making 45. I took off the handle and tried a spanner. But it turns and stops at. definite point. I was reluctant to use force as the boat is afloat, and did not want to risk breaking any part.
 
The sea bung looks like a clever idea. How do you ensure the through hull fitting does not move when you try to undo the valve fitting? That'd be fairly crucial


Maybe I'll see if the hose will come off and the problem is visible from above.

Or just leave well alone until lift out
 
Is there any chance that something has been dropped into the bowl, perhaps by children? Paper clip? Hairpin? Part of a toy? All of these could be the cause if they manage to get jammed inside the hole of the ball.
 
Is there any chance that something has been dropped into the bowl, perhaps by children? Paper clip? Hairpin? Part of a toy? All of these could be the cause if they manage to get jammed inside the hole of the ball.
All the above would seem mighty possible, I would have thought that would stop it closing, not make opening difficult?.
 
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Might be worth closing it, taking the pipe off and and having a look inside. It may have disintegrated inside - I believe the ball sits in a plastic sleeve?

Not something to do when you're on your own on a Sunday evening! At least make sure you can reach your mobile phone with one hand while stemming the flow with the other.
 
Might be worth closing it, taking the pipe off and and having a look inside. It may have disintegrated inside - I believe the ball sits in a plastic sleeve?

Not something to do when you're on your own on a Sunday evening! At least make sure you can reach your mobile phone with one hand while stemming the flow with the other.

I have changed a 1/2" ball cock (engine intake) that is roughly 500mm below sea level... with the boat afloat.
The Ball had sheared off its stem and operating the lever had no effect. My son behind me with an appropriately sized taper plug that he handed to me when I lifted the faulty cock with my left hand and immediately stuffed the plug in with my right. Replacement after cleaning the threads of the skin fitting and applying PTFE tape was a reversal of the above. Not more than half a glass of water came in.
 
I have changed a 1/2" ball cock (engine intake) that is roughly 500mm below sea level... with the boat afloat.
The Ball had sheared off its stem and operating the lever had no effect. My son behind me with an appropriately sized taper plug that he handed to me when I lifted the faulty cock with my left hand and immediately stuffed the plug in with my right. Replacement after cleaning the threads of the skin fitting and applying PTFE tape was a reversal of the above. Not more than half a glass of water came in.

That's encouraging
 
That's encouraging

Just in case you wish to do the same:
When installing the replacement globe valve leave it in an 'OPEN' position until you have made two or three turns onto the skin fitting. The water will flow through instead of blowing the valve away. Once you have done that you can close the valve and will only have a slight weep of water coming past the threads. Calmly continue to screw it tighter until there is no water coming through and the valve handle is just where you want it. There is no need to over-tighten.
Stay calm throughout the whole operation! If you try to rush you'll probably fumble. :encouragement:
 
I have just had a ballcock problem, wouldn't close or open properly. had the boat lifted and found crud stopping the operation. changed the seacock.
 
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