Sea Cocks - should they be bonded?

So what's the smaller dia white poo-pipe? I assume the 38mm one (with the switch) is poo pump outlet, and that dia suggests a diaphragm pump not macerator which is good, so what's the smaller one? (I can't believe it is flush water intake, not on a boat this good)

An alternative analysis is that the bigger pipe is striaght from toilets via diverter, for occasions when black tank not used, and the switch is a dash indicator or earth bond, and the smaller pipe is macerator pump discharge.
 
jfm - I assume you are refferring to my post.
I'm told by Princess that there is an automatic pump out that pumps out when the poo tank (as you guys are calling it) gets near full. Not sure I like this as I'm used to opening the seacock, pumping out and then closing it again. They also say that there is a manual system that you can use if the auto system fails - yuk. I imagine that the smaller pipe is the alternative system. I need to get my head round (so to speak) this before I say too much - there's normally a good reason for things like this. I must admit I liked your idea of an automatic seacock - you mentioned a week or so ago.
 
Hmmm I hate automatic. you certianly dont want to dump the tank on your own berth, then have to handle the ground lines. Yuk! Mine is all electric including the seacock, but NOT automatic!

On yours, just identify the wiring and kill the automatic feature, replace/add carling switches that look OEM, then you can dump the tank when you want. Dont think you'd better not alter it cos "princess know what they're doing", cos if they make self-dumping black tanks they plainly dont :-)

I'm still no wiser as to what the two white pipes in your picture do. I doubt the small dia pipe is the "alternative". By "alternative" I bet they mean a way to turn on the dump pump manually, rahter than a whole extra dump pump and dump pipe

Do you have level guage/LEDs so you know how full the black tank is?
 
When we visited the factory in Feb, I asked for a copy of the main manual for the boat which has quite a lot of detail - where pipes/electrics run - skin fittings etc.
Under a section - Holding Tank - I quote
[ QUOTE ]
Where your yacht is operating in waters allowing offshore discharge, and with the discharge control switch in the "AUTO" position, the pump will sense when the tank is approx 30% full and discharge automatically, switching off when empty. With the switch to "MAN" position the pump will overide the automatic functions running continuously. The discharge seacock is fitted with a sensor that will illuminate when shut (discharge pump will not run in the "AUTO" position)

It then goes on

A backup pump is fitted as standard operated by a switch on the main DC panel --- then there's a load of bollox about being at least 12 miles off shore ------ then Isolator valves are fitted below the cabin floor in the passageway (the ones in the photo)

[/ QUOTE ]

It seems to me that it will spend most of its time in the OFF (not AUTO or MAN)

There is a photo of the Holding Tank Panel - it has 4 lights - Empty, Low, Mid and Full. and two switches to referred to above - also a light to show if the main seacock is open or not.

Plenty of scope here for improvement once I get the boat.
 
Ah good, all sounds fine. You can just leave it off, and when you want to dump the tank select MAN. You'll hardly ever use AUTO.

The back up system sounds good. But judging from the pipe dia it is a macerator type and those impellers stick with dried poo if not used regularly, so somehow it would be good either to run the back up once a month OR verify that it has never been run EVER, then isolate it and don't use it till you need to, cause in a new state with clean impeller it can happily sit idle for 5 years.

The electric seacock is easy to retrofit if you want, or use the manual one if it's easy to reach (mine isn't, hence electric)
 
Yes. In fact that's how I installed mine. I knew I could re-install it by screwing it directly to the skin fitting when I lift the boat, but never bothered.

Of course installing it in line isn't a pure perfect solution, becuase you are still exposed to failure of 300mm ish of hose and jubilee clips at each end but I dont lose sleep over stuff like that :-)
 
Re: status of heatwave

Yikes, i'm not sure the BBQ unit is where I wanted it, I drew an outline on the floor, can you still see it? If its centred between the two LED's then its in the wrong place /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif. I'd better call Frances I think. One of the downsides of having the boat in the Med, you can't always be there to check the work as its being done. They may have just put it there temporarily though, or it may be in the right place and just a bit deceptive from the pictures.

Thanks for taking the pics, very helpful to see what they're doing
 
Re: status of heatwave

No worries. The outine on the floor is still there and they haven't fastened it. If you put it on your outline, you obsucure the forward white light partially. Not fully though. If you slide it furhter forward so it completely covers the forward light hole, it is too far forward, too close to the front stiars hatch. So why not put it equidistant between the white lights? It works fine there in terms of space to walk past it each end (I tried it) and it avoids you needing to relocate the front light and deal with the 3inch hole..?
 
Re: status of heatwave

Sorry if i'm boring everyone on the forum with this, but it is quite useful to get the feedback when I can't get to the boat to check it for myself.

Moving the light didn't add much to the cost, and the BBQ unit can then be centred between the end of the seating unit, and the step up to the helm, which I think is optimum for access either side of it. I think the lights will look better a bit further away from each side of the BBQ unit as well.

Hope you've had decent weather there over Easter, we've had a blizzard here.
 
I'm on my boat too at the moment and my seacocks are different again. Only the gennie, airco and fridge gas condenser circuit seacocks are bonded but nothing else is including the main engine seacocks which are definitely not bonded. I'm guessing that the logic is that any sea cock feeding a 220V appliance is bonded? Could be bollocks of course
I hope the weather is better in the SoF. It's cold and windy here in Palma and it even snowed at sea level in the north of the island on Sunday. No prospect of getting out to sea until Friday
 
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