Screws with added covers

Sea Devil

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I am in the process or renewing all the headlining in my Prout 33 - not a bundle of fun!

I am taking down the wood trim that actually covers the join between head lining and bulkheads. These are screwed on and then the holes over the head of the screws filled with filler... Some of these screws have had to have their heads drilled out/off in order to release the trim...

Because even the original filler showed as a slightly different colour - shade I was thinking that maybe it would be better to replace the countersunk screws with some with larger heads and screw on 'covers' to the screws...

So are there marine grade screws that accept 'screw on' covers available? Or does someone have a better solution or advice?

Thanks in advance

Michael
 

Spuddy

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Do you mean the ones with a threaded hole in centre so that a chromed dome can be screwed on? Known as mirror screws - but I don't know if they are available in A2 or A4. Doubt it. You could use screw cups which might eliminate need to go up a size. Someone will have a link to a good supplier.
 

tillergirl

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I've never seen what you are seeking in stainless. Have you sufficient depth in the timber batten to countersink and then use wooden plugs. This gives the best finish and isn't really that traumatic to do. You do need sufficient 'hole' left after the screw is in to give the plug sufficient bite. Not a vast amount though.
 

jerryat

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Hi, you may care to try using the 'snap-on' buttons similar to those fitted on my Westerlys headlinings.

These allow you to use s/s screws through a plastic base part to secure the panel. You then snap the button cover on afetrwards. The latter can be covered (if you wish) with matching fabric/vinyl etc.

The assembly is infinitely re-usuable and corrosion free.

They are available from many suppliers including Hawke House Marine (tel: 01329 668800), Point North etc.

HTH's
 

jerryat

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Doh!!!! Just realised you are fixing wooden cover battens so my post isn't the answer!! Agree with Tillergirl re using using screw cups then.

These are available in s/s, brass etc and either surface type or (not suitable for your thin battens) inset type.

OR, you could use the plastic version of the surface type that allow a snap-on cover similar to those in my first post. These are available in different sizes/colours from cabinet maker suppliers and, possibly, stores like B and Q.

I've seen them recently but can't remember where!!
 

jerryat

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Well done hOO!!

That's exactly the plastic sort I was thinking of!! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

tillergirl

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3mm ok; 2mm - well could do - certainly I'd have a go on the workbench but then you'll be working upside down! They do need to be glued and then the glue to set before trimming with a v sharp chisel or one of those special small triming saws that only have teeth proturbing one side.

Decisions, decisions - plugs will be fiddly; brass screw cups will tarnish in time, brass plated screw cups will rust and the plastic ones will look odd in the wood batten. Who would have a boat? One of the joys of a wooden boat is no headlining but then I have nowhere to hid wires.
 

bluesjunior

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You could also take a piece of the wood you are screwing into and by using a bench / belt sander or whatever make it into sawdust. Mix this sawdust with ordinary cleardrying woodglue, fill the cavities up with this mixture leave to dry then sand them flush. They will then be the same colour as the wood and more or less invisible.
 

rogerthebodger

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The only I found stainless screwcups is westmarine , the plated ones rusted inside 3 months.

I used them for the same application as you. I used them with raised countersink screws slotted screws and aligned the slots all in the same direction (misaligned one or two and SWMBO complained)
 

VicS

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I used the plastic "Screw Snap caps" to replace laquered "Solid brass screw cups" and laquered brass countersunk screws and very smart they look but that was to fix trim covered in foam backed vinyl.

The "screw cover caps" press into contersunk posidrive screws and usually come out again too easily, but I suppose they could be glued in. They do offer the smothest looking finish, but too much like cheap flat pack furniture for my liking.

Beware of the raised countersunk screws. They can remove chunks of skin if you brush up agaist them
 

dazautomatics

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If you can't conceal, make a feature of it !

Try s/steel dome head screws with maybee a hex head or security screws, available from screwfix in stainless.

Also good for keeping things on deck you don't want to loose.

They don't look out of place but as VicS if you dont have the head room, try glue rather than skin.
 

savageseadog

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As recommended by NASA

challenger.jpg


Someone left a cap off
 
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