Scrap Boom

[Capt_Scarlet]

We are changing our Moody 34 mainsail from a Kemp Reefin retro-fitted in-mast reefing system to a conventional slab reefing, Stackpack main.

As usual, the cost of a reasonably defined task is spiralling out of control.

I cannot quite understand why, but the riggers have said that our existing boom (which I imagine originally was slab-reefed) is not up to handling 3 reefing lines and an outhaul - 4 lines running inside the boom.

We are left with a choice of either a replacement boom for nearly £700 or extensive reworking of the existing boom for only about £100 less.

What would the panel do?

If we replace the boom, what is the value of the old one, either as second-hand or as scrap?

 

[ThereAndBack]

Aluminium scrap is about £700 a tonne - or it was about 6 weeks ago.

 

[oldsaltoz]

It's only a few blocks and fitting , perhaps a bit of wire spliced to rope and some slots in the boom.

Talk to another rigger or do it yourself, even if you have to pay them for the splice.

Avagoodweekend......

 

[roly_voya]

Think the expensive bit of a boom is the ends not the tube so if you need extra sheeves that could explain the cost if they are planning to fit 2 new ends. You need to identify what the problem is and then seee if there is a way round it without changing end caps

 

[TigaWave]

Whats wrong with running a reef outside the boom? On wooden booms it works. Thats what I would do faced with the same dilemma.

 

[damo]

What are the details of your present boom? eg make, dims, any sheaves and slots already in place? You may have a buyer /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[reeac]

You could go for only 2 reefing lines plus outhaul. That's what I have, with second and third reef immediately available and first available if necessary by rerunning one of the reefing lines.

 

[SwedishLass]

The third reefing line will add up to a lot of extra cordage on the leech in normal usage. Are you intending to run all back to the cockpit?
If not an alternative solution would be to run a light mousing line through reefing eye, once the second reef is in you can recycle first reefing line.

 

[RobBrown]

I don't know if you are a member of the MOA following your acquisition of the 34? If so you could try searchiing the archives on this topic,as I recall someone posting details of a set up which retained 3 in boom reefing lines and an outhaul set up to work outside the boom using outside mounted blocks and jammers.

I was interested in that set up as I have 3 reefs on the sail, but only space in boom for the current 2 reefing line & an outhaul, but haven't got round to doing anything about it yet!

 

[Evadne]

[ QUOTE ]
Whats wrong with running a reef outside the boom?

[/ QUOTE ]

Unfortunately I don't have any pictures to hand but that's what I did to great effect last winter on our aluminium boom. I can't recall the exact area of the main, but the luff x foot is 27' x 11' 6".

I bought the Barton reefing kit, i.e. three blocks on a rail, and screwed it to the aft end of the boom. Then I bought a twin clutch and bolted it to the forward end, intending to rig two reefs at a time and run the third one through as needed. There are some fairleads to stop the lines drooping from the boom too badly. This winter I'm intending to add a third clutch and rig the 3rd reef permanently.

The lines are hauled in by a winch on the mast but, unless you've left it really too late and it's blowing an absolute hooley I found that a winch is hardly needed: I hauled in two reefs at the mast on a dead run, probably only in a F5-6, purely by hand, and got as good a set as I ever do.

I found that fitting a set of reefing lines is not rocket science, especially if you're prepared to spend a bit of money and reef from the mast. The main problem is bolting the clutches to the boom without creating weaknesses, I bolted them all the way through but the ideal way is to remove the gooseneck and fasten the nuts inside the boom.

 

[oldestgit]

Gooday Capt_Scarlet.

I am just at this time re building the boom on my Sadler 34.
Kemp boom..... Extrusion 11ft 3inches by section 143 x 76mm

The difficulty they would experience in this boom is only 2 cars, for single line back to the cockpit reefing. However both ends are set up for 4 reefs + Outhall, but you could easily use the internal blocks for outhaul as a 3rd reef and do a straight through Outhall or alternatively use the Cunningham as the 3rd inner and do a straight through the boom for the outer, (saves about 10m of line). I can’t see it as a problem if it’s the same 143 x 76 section as mine.

Look on the Selden site and they have a detailed worksheet on all the boom and mast sections with drawings (of a fashion).

The only other thing I would suggest is that you have a look at changing the recommended 10mm lines (in mine) to Dyneema 8mm as they run much easier on the sheaves and are over twice the breaking strain of Braid 10mm. also probably cheaper on eBay than 10mm standard in the swindleries.

Finally £700 doesn’t look like a bad price as I was quoted over £1k at the boat show by Selden for a similar replacement for mine. If you have to go down the replacement route I would get a quote from Atlantic Spars, (Google them).

Either way enjoy…………… Peter

 

[William_H]

Capt_ Scarlet don't just accept the quote for a new boom. Yes it will probably be magnificent but cost a significant portion of the value of the boat. As pointed out much of the cost will be for the new end fittings they are probably assuming that the old fittings can't be removed and won't fit a a modern Al extrusion.
I assume that it is 2 line slab reefing you are wanting. Single line is not worth having IMHO.
It is almost certain they are going to provide internal reefing linnes which emerge at the end of the boom like an outhaul. I reckon this is bad as the pull then to the clew of the sail especially on the deepest reef is from to far aft. This is then balanced by tieing the tail of the reefing line to the boom at a point too far forward to provide the down ward direction pull. This is often used but seems to me all wrong (perhaps I am wrong) but I prefer to see a reefing line come from a pulley on the side of the boom through the eyelet and back to a similar point on the other side of the boom such that both sides of the rope pull in the same direction ie about 45 degrees from the boom to the eyelet. In other words external reefing with lines running under the boom to a turning block under the gooseneck.

You do not need cheek blocks on a track, just one block for each reef at the correct place. This is not hard to determine before mounting each cheek block. You would only need cheek blocks on adjustable track if you change mainsails.
Do take the lines back to the cockpit as it is a far nicer place to be when you want to reef. Especially if the halyard is controlled from there.
As said before 3 reefing lines is a lot (of rope floating around the deck.) 2 will give the option of moving one. Or of simply reaving the 3rd deepest only if you are going on a long voyage.
Or you can keep the deepest for emergencies and just use the first for short cruises. A lot depends on your sailing style and time will tell you what is best for you.

good luck and don't spend moneeeeeeeey. olewill