Save my Seagull

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pcatterall

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Save it from the scrap yard that is!! had the engine in my garage all winter. This spring changed fuel, tested engine in the wheely bin and it started 3rd pull, retested 3 times over a complete day, starting and running fine.

Took it boat fitted to back of dinghy, 30 or 40 pulls.. nothing..plug fine but dry... dismantled carb.. cleaned all jets..30 or 40 pulls.. nothing plug still not wet...did carb again..same result...got oars out!!!
I will bring it back for another strip and dismantle but are there any hints please. There was good compression and spark, plenty of new fuel getting at least into the float chamber but I would have thought that the spark plug would have been really wet if petrol was getting through??
Last chance saloon!!! Any advice welcome!!
 
Is the leg too deep in the water? The exhaust pressure cannot overcome the water pressure under starting conditions sometimes.
In effect it's like bunging a spud in a car exhaust. It chokes it.


errrm. Did you turn the fuel tap on?
 
[ QUOTE ]
Any advice welcome!!

[/ QUOTE ] Double check the plug. It is possible to see a spark when out but for it not to spark under compression

You don't say what model, what the model number is or what carb or ignition system you have.

Go to the Saving old Seagulls forum for expert advice from the experts with these engines but quote the model details, model number stamped on the casting above the flange at the top of the drive shaft tube at the very least.

Also loads of info and advice on the SOS website

BTW I dont have any trouble starting my Featherweight when it is seriously too deeply mounted (water practically coming over the transom sometimes)
 
Agree the leg is too deep in the water, Try it in the bin again, if it starts then either raise it on the trasom or get someone to sit in the bow of the dinghy. You can start your seagull out of the water very briefly without damage just make sure you can stop it quickly thumb over carb air intake works for me.
 
I had exactly this problem. It would start perfectly on test ashore (no need for a bin - it can run dry for half a minute) but refused to start on the dinghy.

1) Check that the shaft is vertical. If the transom slopes it may be out of the adjustment range of the bracket, so fit a wooden wedge.

2) Contrive a collar to lift the shaft higher out of the water. There are proper seagul collars, but I found a bike handlebar clamp a perfect fit, and it is adjustable with allan keys.

Don't pile all your equipment in and then try and start. Get it ready to load, and loop the painter back so that you can secure the stern too. Then start the engine, get it idling nicely, then load up passengers etc.

I find two pulls do it, full choke and about half throttle. Dibble the float pin to get fuel through. Don't open the choke too soon, just ease it open when running steadily.
 
Turn the fuel tap on and,without opening the vent on the filler cap,give the engine a good shake by moving the steering arm around side to side vigorously(as much as you can with it on the transom anyway).This agitates the petrol and creates pressure within the tank which is enough to force fuel mix through to the cylinder-if you still have a dry plug then you really do have a fuel blockage somewhere-there is a filter in the fuel tap,the float needle might be tired and sticking,there are a couple of brass jets in the carb body,and er thats it..
Next try a hot new plug (ciggy lighter to warnm it).
Once it runs,run it dry of fuel.
It should start fine after all that,if it doesnt then you still have fuel blockages somewhere.
I have never known a reluctance to start due to too much back pressure but it theoretically does indeed make sense too.
 
I've suffered the same with separate solutions:-
(1) Fuel tap was not delivering fuel properly - fix - open and shut it vigorously several times.

(2). Unexplained green gunge in bottom of float chamber between uses. Couldn't see how water get in, but a wine cork (plastic or real) in the air intake cured it (Villiers carb only).

FWIW
 
I agree that the ignition system is worth looking at. I had exactly the same experience - fuel ok and getting through, good spark plug, right mixture, but dead seagull. There was a spark too. Then I changed the plug cap on the end of the HT lead, having cut a couple of mm back to get to a good cooper core, and away she went, first pull. It seemed that over time the old plug cap was becoming loose, and the cooper link to the cap tarnished.
 
Interesting set of responses for which many thanks.
Many of them ignore the dry plug I reported.
Engine was at the depth of water it usually works at, fuel is getting into the float chamber but not into the engine.
Will go through all the chacks when I get the beastie back home.
many thanks for the tips guys, they may not solve this problem but are all good info to store away in the little grey cells mes amis.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Many of them ignore the dry plug I reported

[/ QUOTE ]

You are sure that the float chamber is filling correctly? All the carbs used on Seagulls have a tickler the purpose of which is to confirm the fuel flow and filling of the float chamber.

You still have not told us any model details or in particular since this appears to be a fuel/carburation problem what carburetter is fitted.

You do say you have cleaned all the jets but the only one that has more than one jet is the Amal two jet carb. So assuming therefore that this is the carb you have you should note that it also has a filter in the bolt that fixes the float chamber to the mixing chamber body . If the float chamber is full (verified with the tickler) and the jets are clear this filter is the only thing that can be preventing the fuel getting into the engine.

Now tell me its not a 2 jet Amal! Had you not have said "all the jets" I would have asumed you had one of the smaller engines for the dinghy which would have had a Villiers or a Bing carb.
 
With a later steel tank, rust particles in the fuel are a common problem these can block the fuel line filter or jet(s) very easily.

when you hold the tickler button down fuel usually pours out of the float chamber overflow. is this happening? If not, it's likely to be the fuel line filter, if it is, then clean the jet(s).
 
Vic, after your detailed explanation I am ashamed to say that I cant remember the model. I will have all the deatails when I get the engine back. I may be using bad terminology when I said jets. There was only one jet!! then an orrifice that allowed the fuel to flow from the carb connection ( you have to remove the jet assembly to get at this and there is a key way to ensure the holes line up !!) Thanks again will reort back!!
 
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